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so you think the radiator is needed to be changed?
Not necessarily. Without seeing it, I couldn't tell you. But if what the dealer says is accurate, that discoloration may be indicative of a weak rad. You could just leave it as is and wait it out, but that comes with risk. A second opinion is another option.
I did feel that the transmission is jerking when changing gear. That's why I think changing the transmission fluid would help.
If this happens on a strong downshift (mine did it at full throttle around 40mph) and if the sound is a very loud thunk from the rear then your rear differential bushings need replacing.
2 pcs should go for under $70. Pic attached. Sorry not a good pic but if you look closely the one on the right is damaged/squashed. More than likely these need replacing. I took this photo at a service station just to know what part to buy and the car on the lift (not mine) has his damaged too.
BTW, if you change the transmission fluid or rear differential fluid PLEASE drive very very slowly and take it easy (you basically want the fluid to go thru many hot and cold cycles before you gun it). And should the fluids not be changed for a long time (you have to assume so since you have no history) then do it like Udel said. And separate those 3 oil changes at distant dates. Local guys here say the rule is you come back in a month and at each time you drain only half and refill (total 3 times). The guy that suggested using a jug to measure is awesome. And regardless of when last oil change was, you should always take it very easy for the first 2 tanks of gas. This rule also good to apply on engine oil as well.
Originally Posted by veronchu
Also so I started hearing some weird electrical sound even though I turn off the engine.
try turning off the cooling/heating seats.
On a separate note, I learned that the ABS brake system - actuator (can cost near a $1000) fails when skimming the discs. Heard that the abs is just dumb and doesnt recognize whats up so it turns on and off many times til it fails. I skimmed my discs 3 times and apparently that was shockingly good. Have not done my research here. Maybe someone can chime in.
If this happens on a strong downshift (mine did it at full throttle around 40mph) and if the sound is a very loud thunk from the rear then your rear differential bushings need replacing.
2 pcs should go for under $70. Pic attached. Sorry not a good pic but if you look closely the one on the right is damaged/squashed. More than likely these need replacing. I took this photo at a service station just to know what part to buy and the car on the lift (not mine) has his damaged too.
BTW, if you change the transmission fluid or rear differential fluid PLEASE drive very very slowly and take it easy (you basically want the fluid to go thru many hot and cold cycles before you gun it). And should the fluids not be changed for a long time (you have to assume so since you have no history) then do it like Udel said. And separate those 3 oil changes at distant dates. Local guys here say the rule is you come back in a month and at each time you drain only half and refill (total 3 times). The guy that suggested using a jug to measure is awesome. And regardless of when last oil change was, you should always take it very easy for the first 2 tanks of gas. This rule also good to apply on engine oil as well.
try turning off the cooling/heating seats.
On a separate note, I learned that the ABS brake system - actuator (can cost near a $1000) fails when skimming the discs. Heard that the abs is just dumb and doesnt recognize whats up so it turns on and off many times til it fails. I skimmed my discs 3 times and apparently that was shockingly good. Have not done my research here. Maybe someone can chime in.
Nice car and good luck!
Thank you for your reply! I didn't turn on the cool/heat seat though. For the transmission, i didn't hear any noise when changing gear, it's just jerking a little when up shifting or down shifting.
I just changed my differential bushings. The loud thunk is gone but slight jerking on up/down shift still there.
My abs system took a hard crap on me. The brake assy pump went first (thats about $1000), then abs actuator ($1900+) along with the brake ECU ($1600+).
Do the math and thats about 65% of what you paid for your entire car so give yourself a pat on the back on the great job on the 7k purchase!
Going to source a used ECU ($160) to cut the bill. As for the other parts will have to get new ones.
Please let me know what parts you changed and if it solved the gear shift jerk.
I just changed my differential bushings. The loud thunk is gone but slight jerking on up/down shift still there.
My abs system took a hard crap on me. The brake assy pump went first (thats about $1000), then abs actuator ($1900+) along with the brake ECU ($1600+).
Do the math and thats about 65% of what you paid for your entire car so give yourself a pat on the back on the great job on the 7k purchase!
Going to source a used ECU ($160) to cut the bill. As for the other parts will have to get new ones.
Please let me know what parts you changed and if it solved the gear shift jerk.
Isn't the actuator covered under an extended factory warranty? And how did all three components break? Usually all we hear about is the actuator going, I've never heard of anyone having to deal with the pump and ecu.
I just changed my differential bushings. The loud thunk is gone but slight jerking on up/down shift still there.
My abs system took a hard crap on me. The brake assy pump went first (thats about $1000), then abs actuator ($1900+) along with the brake ECU ($1600+).
Do the math and thats about 65% of what you paid for your entire car so give yourself a pat on the back on the great job on the 7k purchase!
Going to source a used ECU ($160) to cut the bill. As for the other parts will have to get new ones.
Please let me know what parts you changed and if it solved the gear shift jerk.
That sounds horrible. Hopefully I don't need to experience this.
Today I had a mechanic to replace the spark plugs. I bought the parts from amazon, $94, labor $200. Here s the old part. Are they bad?
The last picture is the tire pressure. But I believe they are incorrect. How do I reset it?
Those plugs are in definite need of replacement. Are all the plugs looking the same (flakey white deposits)? If so, I think something nefarious is going on.
Those plugs are in definite need of replacement. Are all the plugs looking the same (flakey white deposits)? If so, I think something nefarious is going on.
Ya, I bought the OEM one from Denso. Yes, all 8 are like that. My mechanic told me they are really bad. What potential bad things would happen?
That much fouling can cause misfires. More importantly, why are they like that? It looks like ash deposits. Have you been using fuel additives or oil additives? If not, you may have worn valve guides or piston rings. What I would do is, run your car for 5k miles or so and then pull out one of the plugs and see what it looks like. Are you consuming any oil?
That much fouling can cause misfires. More importantly, why are they like that? It looks like ash deposits. Have you been using fuel additives or oil additives? If not, you may have worn valve guides or piston rings. What I would do is, run your car for 5k miles or so and then pull out one of the plugs and see what it looks like. Are you consuming any oil?
i did use fuel additive for the past two gas filled. I don't think it's consuming oil
This article is pretty good. Doubt anything is wrong with the engine. If anything, just shows they should be replaced sooner then Lexus recommends. I just did mine in the Audi. They recommended every 55k miles. I also did them in my LS's by 75k.
06-13-17, 11:22 PM
