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I dont have extended warranty but thanks for mentioning it.
Most likely the actuator went out first. So I was shopping for one and realized how expensive it is so I thought maybe give the pump a try first since pedal pressure changed and got worse over time. At times the brake pedal wouldnt want to move at all which did not allow me to start the engine. Whenever that happened, I had to press on the engine start button to let the electronics work to let the brake pedal soften and then press the brake and engine start to start the engine.
After I changed the pump, the pedal pressure was completely normal but I still had all the VSC lights on. We did a manual bleeding and did no change. Then I took it to the lexus dealer to bleed it using machines and the codes still came up :
C1201 Engine Control System Malfunction
C1345 Linear Solenoid Valve Offset Learning undone
The dealer told me most likely its the actuator but they also showed me tons of brake ECUs disposed of. Asked me if I would like to change the actuator and ECU and I told him to wait as I might find cheaper parts.
tried to drive home after the machine bleeding and the brake pedal is now FULLY ON or FULLY off. The brake lines are probably too pressurized and the actuator valves being locked in place might have worsened the situation. If I just touch the pedal with minimal pressure its as if I slammed the brakes.
Dealer also told me to avoid driving as when they tried to reprogram the brake the pump / master cylinder got very very hot. So that might be why the pumps can go?
Will change actuator first and if ECU is good will come back to you guys.
You don't need to get a extended warranty when Lexus extends the warranty for known issues, you automatically get it if you own the car. Take the car to the dealer and see if your car falls under the extended brake actuator warranty, if it does not complain to corporate and say your car had the same expensive issue Lexus extended the warranty for other VIN/years and you should be covered too, be persistent, see also if they will reimburse you for expenses you paid trying to fix it.
Would love to hear your results. I can feel my car shift through each gear. Just want the smoothness back...
I don't wanna jump to conclusion right now but I did feel it's running smoother than before. Will see if 2-3 still jerking when start cold tomorrow morning
Hah, how are you so sure? do you have the same problem?
I would say about 70% of us here at CL have this same issue. I had Toyota do my transmission fluid change over two years ago....no change. Same with the others who did the service. If I'm not mistaken, not even a re-flash of the transmission ECU helped.
I would say about 70% of us here at CL have this same issue. I had Toyota do my transmission fluid change over two years ago....no change. Same with the others who did the service. If I'm not mistaken, not even a re-flash of the transmission ECU helped.
i see. I didn't know that many owner has 2-3 gear jerking issue. Does anyone know what's the cause though?
i see. I didn't know that many owner has 2-3 gear jerking issue. Does anyone know what's the cause though?
Lots of speculation, but nothing firm. However, what I found interesting though, was a phenomenon I recently experienced. I forget how or why this happened, but one morning I went from Park to Drive, to Reverse and back to Drive and drove away (no...I wasn't drunk). Anyway, no flare! I haven't had a chance (or I forget) to try this again. Not that this would cure the issue, but it might point to a possible explanation (fluid movement through the solenoids, etc?)
I would say about 70% of us here at CL have this same issue. I had Toyota do my transmission fluid change over two years ago....no change. Same with the others who did the service. If I'm not mistaken, not even a re-flash of the transmission ECU helped.
The only thing I've ever heard members mention is a flare between one and two on cold mornings, is that what you're talking about? And then it goes away when it warms up.
The only thing I've ever heard members mention is a flare between one and two on cold mornings, is that what you're talking about? And then it goes away when it warms up.
Yep...that's the one...sort of. It matters not whether it's cold outside....only that the trans is cold "ish". In other words, it sat overnight/many hours. It goes away IMMEDIATELY after the first shifts. In other words, if you were to stop the car, and proceed again right after the first shifts, the issue is gone. That's why my speculation on the valves and solenoids being filled with fluid after the first gear change sequence.
Yep...that's the one...sort of. It matters not whether it's cold outside....only that the trans is cold "ish". In other words, it sat overnight/many hours. It goes away IMMEDIATELY after the first shifts. In other words, if you were to stop the car, and proceed again right after the first shifts, the issue is gone. That's why my speculation on the valves and solenoids being filled with fluid after the first gear change sequence.
Ok yeah, and your speculation makes sense.
And looking at the photo veronchu posted, do you see that wiring harness in the left corner? I believe that's the one that some people have had replaced due to fluid going right up into the wires, causing damage and hesitation issues on some cars. The harness isn't all that expensive but people are being charged ridiculous amounts of labor cost to replace it. It doesn't look bad to do based on that photo - once the pan is off there's eight accessible connectors, and it looks like it unscrews from the top. Toyota uses a similar setup in other transmissions. Looks very doable for a DIYer.
You don't need to get a extended warranty when Lexus extends the warranty for known issues, you automatically get it if you own the car...
Possibly only in America? My car is an american spec that was exported to Dubai which I then exported to Bahrain. Over here they dont do this. They ask you to ship it to the U.S. and claim for warranty there.
Reimbursing is a fairy tale over here. But thanks for mentioning it hopefully someone in the states will give it a go.
So I went ahead (paid) and changed the brake actuator (just got the car today) and seems to drive normal. Luckily, the brake ECU did not need replacement. Another similar car was at the service station for the same fault only his was worse. He changed the brake pump without changing the actuator (just like me) but he drove the car for 15 days and his pump went bad again. Luckily I did not drive the car and my new pump was fine. I asked the service mgr about if the brake discs skimming have to do with this he said no. Asked what happens to actuator said the valves just get stuck. Told him if changing brake fluid frequently would help said he doubts it but ill try it in the future anyway.
I also did the transmission fluid change. Dealer advised to just do the whole fluid change and not worry about doing it over 3 increments. Said the torque converter already sucks around 2 liters which cannot be drained. My transmission fluid probably has not been changed ever (car has about 118k miles and service mgr said trans fluid should be done every 50k miles). The gear shift jerkiness got more amplified. I used to feel it only on cold start or with a heavy foot but now it happens a lot. Drove the car later in the afternoon and it lessened so maybe the oil needs to go thru a few heat/cool cycles? I asked the service mgr and he mentioned the jerkiness is from some valve rubber seals that got dry and the cost of changing them would lead to a full tranny overhaul costing almost as much as a new tranny ($5k+). Said its fine to drive this way unless it gets much worse. As of now there are no codes and no warning lights on the gauge cluster. Also mentioned if it were a bad transmission solenoid it would throw a code. Used transmissions go for around $1k. Said to change trans fluid again during next engine oil change since my prev tran fluid was in bad shape.
Hopefully will remember to come back and post my results in the near future.
So yeah if I were to buy a high mileages LS460, Id check for gear shift jerks and brake job done as well as if the arms were recently replaced. Those are the biggest expenses.
Yep...that's the one...sort of. It matters not whether it's cold outside....only that the trans is cold "ish". In other words, it sat overnight/many hours. It goes away IMMEDIATELY after the first shifts. In other words, if you were to stop the car, and proceed again right after the first shifts, the issue is gone. That's why my speculation on the valves and solenoids being filled with fluid after the first gear change sequence.
Wow, it's good to know this is a common thing, I have an 08 GS460 which shares the 8 speed and mine does the exact same thing and after having it flushed at lexus still does it, I was worried my transmission might be starting to go bad but it doesn't seem to get worse and goes away within a minute of driving. Not many GS460 owners so I didn't have much to compare it to on our forum
07-03-17, 09:43 AM
