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You know what is hilarious is I have this feature on my A8 and never even knew about it. I guess I just missed it in the manual. Someone brought it up on the Audi forums and sure enough I went to my vehicle and acted like I was going kick the bottom of the bumper and the trunk opened. Here I was making fun of the feature not having a clue I had it on my car. Doh... Lol
It works 100 % now after a fine tuning :-)...
A short installation revue:
Clean out the luggage space, covers and spare wheel.
Find the fuse box and trunk opener motor here on the driver side of the trunk (there are also a bolt to earth the wire too under it):
Draw the cables for the set ( after cutting them roughly in the middle, connect the rest of the wiring to the foot operator box connector), through an opening where the battery ventilation goes out ( just under the rear light on the LHS)
Red from control box on the device in to black on the fuse box (coming from battery) (10) + blue on the device to brown on the fuse box (19)
Then remove the plastic lid on the underside of the spare wheel well, then You can come under the rear bumper easily... CLEAN the mounting place to get good connection ...I used thick double sided industrial tape.
I moved the box closer to the middle, so that the foot operated contact wires goes roughly in the middle of the car's bumper. The sensing wires are mounted paralell with a distance of 10 to 15 cm....mine is 12,5 cm apart..
Ends of sensing wires
Pulled all wires on foot operation hardware through the battery air outlet and started to shorten them (so not to have a large bundle of wires inside)
..and pulled a HD crimping tube over one side of the wires coming from the car, before connecting the correct wires on both side before crimping the tube.
Connections:
From the foot operated box to:
Black to Earth (bolt under the fuses)
Red to Constant to 12 V - (Black on the Power Trunk Lid Control ECU (there are 2 of of these in on the trunk opener motor)
Blue to Brown (small Cable on the Power Trunk Lid Control motor ..Pin 19)
Green to Earth (bolt under the fuses)
White to ACC ( upper White wire ,upper left on the fuse box)
DISCLAIMER : Remember that this is written by a member without ANY electrical knowledge AT ALL, and I (and my lawyers), hereby revoke any guaranty at all that it works .... If You decide to do it ....IT'S ALL ON YOU :-)
But....best of luck to You :-)
Mine works now 100 % ..that is: all the time... to my satisfaction
Regards
Arvid
Last edited by Arvid; 10-10-17 at 05:37 AM.
Reason: my spelling ...****e :-(
Foot/kick operated boot/trunk release - microwave version
Hi Arvid,
First of all thank you very much for the details you posted about fitting the kick operated boot opener and particularly for the photos.
I am trying to fit this to my GS 450h Mk 4. I realise that you fitted yours three years ago now but I'm struggling and any assistance would be valuable to me. My model is simpler than the one you fitted (which is why I risked buying it) it has a microwave transmitter/receiver which detects the foot rather than the two wire induction type you used. It should be easy to mechanically fit the module (a bit bigger than a matchbox) and it only has four wires - red (+12 V), black (Earth or 0V), blue (to the boot open switch) and white (ACC). I understand the first three but not why I need an ACC connection but let me just accept that I do. I've been struggling (I'm 73 and I don't like squatting in the boot) with the connections and find it particularly hard when the connectors use such tiny pins and sockets to trace where wires run but I'm almost there. It is the white (ACC) wire that I'm struggling with. You say (connect it to) "Upper white wire, upper left on fuse box". Are you able to tell me where this fuse box is located, please? I realise that it might be different on my car but any guidance might be useful. To be honest I'm unsure how to turn on and off the ACC (accessories) connection to give me some chance of tracing its connections. I have push button start with keyless ignition. I can just turn on the accessories by pressing the power (ignition on) button twice.
It looks like you have made many, many modifications to your car. Respect!
I hope things are good with you, your family and your vehicles in Norway.
Regards,
Barry (NedTheNerd)
So this mod opens the trunk when you put your foot underneath the rear bumper near the sensors? What if you back up to something like a curb and it comes close to the sensors? Will the trunk open whenever the sensors detect anything in proximity?
So this mod opens the trunk when you put your foot underneath the rear bumper near the sensors? What if you back up to something like a curb and it comes close to the sensors? Will the trunk open whenever the sensors detect anything in proximity?
Answers to questions:
1.yes
2. Never happend...
and to RZ...Before installing the foot operated trunk opener, I have several times had got suitcases soild by muck, sleet, snow and grime when the weather is bad...Remember I live in Norway...
In Stavanger, during the entire year, the rain falls for 244 days and collects up to 1180mm (46.5") of precipitation.
Thank you for that Arvid,
I didn't get your reply in time but found a, worryingly thin, black wire which was only on when the when the engine was on or the ACC mode was engaged, on the same connectors, near the boot motor where the positive and negative were located, and managed to make a connection to that.
I soldered all my connections and was hoping to be able to remove the pins from the connectors so that I could slide on a length of heat shrink tubing and insulate them with that. Unfortunately, despite struggling for ages I couldn't acquire the knack of un-pinning, as far as I was aware and insulating tape had to suffice. I did make a good job of it with sticky cable clips retaining the wires neatly but it took me ages and I was fed up with the whole thing by the time I'd finished. Then when I tested it not only did it not work but none of the other buttons to open the boot worked either! I'd had enough and after struggling using the emergency physical key for a day or two and with the posting from somebody who needed a new loom at a cost of $1,600 to fix the problem hanging in my mind, took it to the garage. It didn't take them long to discover that I did have the knack of removing pins from connectors! I had unlocked one, unbeknown to myself, and when I fitted the two halves of the connector together had pushed it out which being the wire from the boot switch turned out to be the problem.
It is now working well. I get the occasional failure but I think that it is more a matter of practising my kick than anything else.
Barry (NedTheNerd)
10-05-17, 08:06 PM
