Seafoam Spray and throttle body.
#16
I'm not saying the Seafoam is not doing anything. I'm promoting removal of the throttle body and use of something to scrub. Seafoam might be a wonder when sprayed on and scrubbed.
In my case, the toothbrush would have done nothing without some kind of loosening agent. Since I knew of the existence of throttle body cleaner, the logic was straightforward. I'm not familiar with any additives. I just don't use them. Especially injector cleaner.
Also, in this case of low idle, our cars have some kind of programming issue (I think it's a goof on the part of the designers) to where when there are no electrical loads on the engine, and it is placed in drive, at idle it will idle below 500 rpm. I'm not sure if that's what the O.P. is experiencing. For example, when my car is doing its low idle (no electrical load, in D, not moving), I can switch on either, and individually, one of the following: a seat heater, a seat cooler, (almost) Nike lights, A/C, and there may be a few other things. Switch on any one of those singularly and my engine will idle up, and be smooth as silk. Or, when low idling, I put it in N, or R, the engine idles up. The fact that I can go from low idle in D, and quickly change it to R and it idles correctly tells me, this is programming ... not a malfunction. I mention this because maybe the O.P. is experiencing this when he has everything else in the car turned off.
In my case, the toothbrush would have done nothing without some kind of loosening agent. Since I knew of the existence of throttle body cleaner, the logic was straightforward. I'm not familiar with any additives. I just don't use them. Especially injector cleaner.
Also, in this case of low idle, our cars have some kind of programming issue (I think it's a goof on the part of the designers) to where when there are no electrical loads on the engine, and it is placed in drive, at idle it will idle below 500 rpm. I'm not sure if that's what the O.P. is experiencing. For example, when my car is doing its low idle (no electrical load, in D, not moving), I can switch on either, and individually, one of the following: a seat heater, a seat cooler, (almost) Nike lights, A/C, and there may be a few other things. Switch on any one of those singularly and my engine will idle up, and be smooth as silk. Or, when low idling, I put it in N, or R, the engine idles up. The fact that I can go from low idle in D, and quickly change it to R and it idles correctly tells me, this is programming ... not a malfunction. I mention this because maybe the O.P. is experiencing this when he has everything else in the car turned off.
#17
In my case, the toothbrush would have done nothing without some kind of loosening agent. Since I knew of the existence of throttle body cleaner, the logic was straightforward. I'm not familiar with any additives. I just don't use them. Especially injector cleaner.
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Daybo (05-17-18)
#18
Where is the line to suck in seafoam? The one highlighted in red or green? Anyways, I read some people don't have any result with seafoam so I might as well just forget about it and return seafoam back to store.
On the other hand, I am putting in BG44k into the gas tank. I read good thing about it.
#19
I used Sea Foam spray. I pulled back the inlet tub area in RED. Stuck sea foam spray straw in between and spray away. I had used a homemade pedal pusher to keep rpm's up. Took about 5 mins and let the car sit for 10-15 mins before i drove off onto the highway.
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diamente (05-21-18)
#21
The other option for the vacuum system is just plain ole distilled or tap water. The heated water turns to steam and does the same work...likely better in many cases. Use it in the same manner, just avoid the engine locking.
Allow the vacuum line to suck in the water (about 6-8oz), or you can spray it into the vacuum line using a spray bottle (much better option). I first heat up the car by running it for around 2 minutes, thus creating the steam almost immediately. Then let it sit for around 15 minutes after all the water has been used, then take it for a brisk run (about 5-10 minutes) to evaporate it out of your system. The water will not corrode the engine, as it already occurs naturally in the engine. The steam will lift the carbon, and dissolve it. If you've ever used a steam cleaner with a small nozzle, you can see how it quickly melts grime, old and hardened oil, stains, dirt, grease, etc.
Water injection has been used on engines since the 1930's. You do have to be careful with internal engine cleaners. Some have been known to overly heat up catalytic converters and cause them to glow fire engine red to white hot. With steamed water it's almost impossible to create more problems, with the exception of a fouled spark plug form carbon bridging a spark plug gap causing a misfire. Just be sure that whatever you do, it's on a hot engine!
BTW, water is about .01 cents per gallon.
Allow the vacuum line to suck in the water (about 6-8oz), or you can spray it into the vacuum line using a spray bottle (much better option). I first heat up the car by running it for around 2 minutes, thus creating the steam almost immediately. Then let it sit for around 15 minutes after all the water has been used, then take it for a brisk run (about 5-10 minutes) to evaporate it out of your system. The water will not corrode the engine, as it already occurs naturally in the engine. The steam will lift the carbon, and dissolve it. If you've ever used a steam cleaner with a small nozzle, you can see how it quickly melts grime, old and hardened oil, stains, dirt, grease, etc.
Water injection has been used on engines since the 1930's. You do have to be careful with internal engine cleaners. Some have been known to overly heat up catalytic converters and cause them to glow fire engine red to white hot. With steamed water it's almost impossible to create more problems, with the exception of a fouled spark plug form carbon bridging a spark plug gap causing a misfire. Just be sure that whatever you do, it's on a hot engine!
BTW, water is about .01 cents per gallon.
Last edited by ShrinkDoc; 07-07-18 at 03:56 AM.
#22
The other option for the vacuum system is just plain ole distilled or tap water. The heated water turns to steam and does the same work...likely better in many cases. Use it in the same manner, just avoid the engine locking.
Allow the vacuum line to suck in the water (about 6-8oz), or you can spray it into the vacuum line using a spray bottle (much better option). I first heat up the car by running it for around 2 minutes, thus creating the steam almost immediately. Then let it sit for around 15 minutes after all the water has been used, then take it for a brisk run (about 5-10 minutes) to evaporate it out of your system. The water will not corrode the engine, as it already occurs naturally in the engine. The steam will lift the carbon, and dissolve it. If you've ever used a steam cleaner with a small nozzle, you can see how it quickly melts grime, old and hardened oil, stains, dirt, grease, etc.
Water injection has been used on engines since the 1930's. You do have to be careful with internal engine cleaners. Some have been known to overly heat up catalytic converters and cause them to glow fire engine red to white hot. With steamed water it's almost impossible to create more problems, with the exception of a fouled spark plug form carbon bridging a spark plug gap causing a misfire. Just be sure that whatever you do, it's on a hot engine!
BTW, water is about .01 cents per gallon.
Allow the vacuum line to suck in the water (about 6-8oz), or you can spray it into the vacuum line using a spray bottle (much better option). I first heat up the car by running it for around 2 minutes, thus creating the steam almost immediately. Then let it sit for around 15 minutes after all the water has been used, then take it for a brisk run (about 5-10 minutes) to evaporate it out of your system. The water will not corrode the engine, as it already occurs naturally in the engine. The steam will lift the carbon, and dissolve it. If you've ever used a steam cleaner with a small nozzle, you can see how it quickly melts grime, old and hardened oil, stains, dirt, grease, etc.
Water injection has been used on engines since the 1930's. You do have to be careful with internal engine cleaners. Some have been known to overly heat up catalytic converters and cause them to glow fire engine red to white hot. With steamed water it's almost impossible to create more problems, with the exception of a fouled spark plug form carbon bridging a spark plug gap causing a misfire. Just be sure that whatever you do, it's on a hot engine!
BTW, water is about .01 cents per gallon.
absolutely not recommended. I hydro locked my civic. Water does not compress, oil does. Luckily, my piston didn't get bent. Once the engine is hydrolocked, the engine does not run, a good thing. just let it sit overnight and let water drain to oil pan. I changed oil next day and luckily the car ran fine. You could hydrolock with seafoam but i think it's rare. My former coworker bent a piston on his Ford with seafoam,
#23
absolutely not recommended. I hydro locked my civic. Water does not compress, oil does. Luckily, my piston didn't get bent. Once the engine is hydrolocked, the engine does not run, a good thing. just let it sit overnight and let water drain to oil pan. I changed oil next day and luckily the car ran fine. You could hydrolock with seafoam but i think it's rare. My former coworker bent a piston on his Ford with seafoam,
Last edited by ShrinkDoc; 07-07-18 at 03:30 PM.
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