Friends,

My local Lexus dealer is insisting that the 2013 LS460 takes "synthetic blend" oil, rather than "full synthetic".

(I've searched the forums, but the answer isn't definitive.)

I am wondering if you guys/gals can chime in... what is the correct motor oil for this vehicle?

​​​​​​​

 

Hey Jason, nice to hear from you again after a while! My dealer has used full synthetic at my request a couple of times, and I have provided them Mobil 1 ultimate full synthetic to use the last two visits. No pushback. I don’t know why your dealer insists on the blend, unless there is a price difference. Don’t know if this answers your question, but full synthetic can’t hurt.

 

Might be all they have. At a time Lexus of Las Vegas only had synthetic blend when I used to take my car there for service. I asked the service advisor if I could bring my own oil and they didn't have a problem with that. I would op for full synthetic all the time since synthetic blend is mix with conventional oil. Just my two cents, but honestly if you stay on top of your oil change intervals you should be perfectly fine.

 

I thought all 0-20w oil was 100% synthetic oil....... Is this a Lexus dealer telling you this?
I would use 100% synthetic because the price difference is not much more than a synthetic blend oil and the 100% synthetic oil is better protection.

 

If you stay with the 5000 mile oil changes, it doesn't make any difference. If you opt for longer intervals such as the 10,000 now suggested for my RX, then I would require the full synthetic.
Steve

 

As stated already, 0W20 only comes in full synthetic. Since 0W20 is the recommended oil, that pretty much answers the question. The price difference between full syn and blended is nominal, go with full syn. It's also a superior oil, containing far more moly, which is a good thing.

 

I have no idea why anyone in their right mind would choose blend over full synthetic, the price difference as many have said is nominal..

Pay to play. I even put synthetic in my Honda S2000 (Amsoil) and same with my sportbikes that I track.

 

I would never, ever, use a synthetic blend. They aren't required to tell you the percentages of that blend; people assume it's 50/50, it's not, it could be 10/90...they don't have to disclose that. Imagine that?

 

As was said, 0W20 is always a synthetic oil. Dealers however often use crappy oil, if you're going to continue to use this dealer I would bring my own oil.

 

Even what is advertised as a "full synthetic" or "synthetic" in the US over a "synthetic blend" if often not a actual Group 4 full synthetic. They are able to advertise a highly refined synthetic blend in the US as synthetic for the past few years as opposed to other countries where it has to be full Group 4 synthetic to be advertised as synthetic. The full group 4 synthetics in the US are German Castrol OW 30, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Motul, Redline, and a few others. Mobile 1 5W 30, Penzoil, and the stuff Lexus puts in at the dealership are generally not full Group 4 synthetics but refined synthetic blends. US Castrol oils are highly refined synthetic blends, the ones from Germany or European countries are full Group 4.

 

Yes, I've been frustrated trying to get a straight answer from US oil companies as to whether their "full synthetic" oils are indeed full synthetic. Judging by the dancing around in their answers as to what can be called a full synthetic oil in the US, I've come to the conclusion that they aren't!

 

There was a legality issue in the US with what they could call a "synthetic" and synthetic blend years ago, if they are dancing around it, it likely means it is a refined synthetic blend and not a full Group 4. German Castrol OW-30 is definitely a Group 4 Synthetic, it is not as common as other Castrol product but you can find it at stores in quart bottles. I think the new Mobil 1 that is said to last a year and is pretty expensive is a Group 4, I believe the European formula OW 40 oils are Group 4's. Most OW 20's sold in stores as synthetics I don't think are full Group 4's but refined synthetic blends. Royal Purple is Group 4 but I have heard mixed reviews of it, many not so good with turbo engines so I don't bother with it. Amsoil sells Group 4 but it is expensive, same with Motul, Redline, and a few others.

 

Go with full synthetic. I put it in all my cars and motors including lawn mower equipment. It's well worth the $.

 

So how can you be sure that you're putting true "full synthetic" in your cars? You can't believe the labels.

 

FWIW, I've been running Mobil 1 as my only oil for internal combustion engines save for two (diesel motorcoach and lawn equipment), since the late-80s.

Even with 10K-15K mile change intervals, I've never had an oil-related engine problem, and multiple vehicles of mine I've kept until over 200K miles.

Oh, the two Mercedes sedans didn't get M1, either, but rather, dead-dino C4 diesel oil, because that's what Mercedes called for in 10W40.

Honestly, with a 9 litre sump for a 4.6L engine, 10K miles on a U.S.-spec higher-end synthetic blend, but NOT one labeled a blend, is child's play. Our 4.6L V8 is low-revving most of the time, i.e., it's not a bike motor.

This time around, on both my 460 and my wife's RX300, I'm going to draw samples of motor oil and send it to Blackstone for analysis. I'll do the same for transmission oil, though her RX is on a regular drain/fill regimen. My 460's transmission system hasn't ever been opened, but I'm changing the fluid and filter in the next few months. No flushing, but I do have a 12V pump meant for oil, and a couple of five gallon buckets for swapping it all out. I want to know how used up the OEM fluid was and I'm going to examine the filter to see how much clutch material is present.

Even conventional dead dinosaur juice is fine for 5K miles, as long as you're not pulling 8K RPM at every third shift, or idling more than you're moving.

If you use Mobil 1 and follow Toyota's 10K mile change interval, you'll be fine. Just don't forget to change the air filters periodically.