Warped rotor question
06-10-19, 08:23 PM
#32
My Centrics seem to be doing fine and I drive spirited. I usually use engine braking so I'm not constantly on the pads. It's one thing to be knowledgeable about any particular subject but quite another to constantly use that to justify ones actions. It gets old real quick.
06-10-19, 09:25 PM
#33
There is an enormous difference in a standard rotor and one that has been cryogenically treated. Driving HARD in the mountains of Appalachia, my experience has shown that non-cryo rotors will start to exhibit pad material transfer in less than 15k miles, I ran cryo rotors on both a Camry and an Avalon (both with EBC Red) and never had a problem again.
https://www.frozenrotors.com/about/why-deep-cryogenics/
https://www.frozenrotors.com/about/why-deep-cryogenics/
06-11-19, 07:22 AM
#35
Lexus Fanatic
The Lexus OEM are notorious for quick "warping". We all experienced it. For whatever reason, Lexus rotors are trash. If you go with the cryo from Centric (or a similar brand cryo), you'll get better service.
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DedBirdDog (06-11-19)
06-11-19, 01:29 PM
#36
Lexus Fanatic
I would typically recommend that, but not in the instance of these rotors. There are much better quality aftermarket rotors and pads.
06-11-19, 05:37 PM
#37
There is an enormous difference in a standard rotor and one that has been cryogenically treated. Driving HARD in the mountains of Appalachia, my experience has shown that non-cryo rotors will start to exhibit pad material transfer in less than 15k miles, I ran cryo rotors on both a Camry and an Avalon (both with EBC Red) and never had a problem again.
https://www.frozenrotors.com/about/why-deep-cryogenics/
https://www.frozenrotors.com/about/why-deep-cryogenics/
06-12-19, 10:18 AM
#38
If you can find a brake shop that still turns rotors, taking a few thousandths off of them *may* fix this. You'd need to check what Lexus recommends as minimum thickness for the rotors. It is getting harder to find anyone that will resurface a rotor these days, as like everything else we just replace and throw away the old ones. Even if you do resurface, it will come back again. Your best bet honestly is a cryo rotor and high quality ceramic brake pads. For the LS, those rotors are not cheap. You can count on $500 in parts alone to replace the fronts. The up-side is that you should never have to deal with it again for the life of the car.
06-12-19, 04:09 PM
#39
Lexus Fanatic
Even non cryo Centric premium rotors will help guard against this, and I think they're all of $60 each?
I think total parts I may have spent $200 for Centric premium rotors and posit quiet pads for my 2015 460, and the braking was a HUGE improvement from OEM. Will do the same to the 2017 (although the rotors haven't warped on this like they did the 2015)
I think total parts I may have spent $200 for Centric premium rotors and posit quiet pads for my 2015 460, and the braking was a HUGE improvement from OEM. Will do the same to the 2017 (although the rotors haven't warped on this like they did the 2015)
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jkittlesen (06-12-19)
06-17-19, 07:33 PM
#40
Rookie
Thread Starter
I didn't take the comments as condescending and I'm thankful for the info. If all that's in the post is true then we do seem to lack understanding. It's just a fact (again, if the info in the post was accurate). It's unbelievable that I spent so much time researching warped rotors and never came across the explanation that was given above. It's like, WTF, doesn't anyone know anything? So much posting by people who don't know what they are talking about. That's the internet. Doesn't matter what the subject or where it is - misinformation is everywhere.
On bedding in, who is going to be able to find a road where you can do that? Most of us live where there are too many people and/or not the right roads. And what do dealerships do about bedding in? They don't do it, do they? Do they tell you to do it? No.
New question:
Say you properly bed in your rotors (Or is it more correct to say bed in the pads?). What happens if you later mash the brakes on a long downhill stop - say, at a downhill freeway off ramp - and then sit at the stop for a short while. Is that going to wreck your bedded in rotors by leaving a big deposit of pad material?
On bedding in, who is going to be able to find a road where you can do that? Most of us live where there are too many people and/or not the right roads. And what do dealerships do about bedding in? They don't do it, do they? Do they tell you to do it? No.
New question:
Say you properly bed in your rotors (Or is it more correct to say bed in the pads?). What happens if you later mash the brakes on a long downhill stop - say, at a downhill freeway off ramp - and then sit at the stop for a short while. Is that going to wreck your bedded in rotors by leaving a big deposit of pad material?
Last edited by Craiger; 06-17-19 at 07:42 PM.
06-17-19, 07:37 PM
#41
Even non cryo Centric premium rotors will help guard against this, and I think they're all of $60 each?
I think total parts I may have spent $200 for Centric premium rotors and posit quiet pads for my 2015 460, and the braking was a HUGE improvement from OEM. Will do the same to the 2017 (although the rotors haven't warped on this like they did the 2015)
I think total parts I may have spent $200 for Centric premium rotors and posit quiet pads for my 2015 460, and the braking was a HUGE improvement from OEM. Will do the same to the 2017 (although the rotors haven't warped on this like they did the 2015)
06-17-19, 07:45 PM
#42
Rookie
Thread Starter
06-17-19, 07:48 PM
#43
Rookie
Thread Starter
It seems many, if not all of you, seem to lack the understanding of what causes a rotor to pulse, so let me clarify this for you:
rotors can warp, but it takes either a physical strike to them or extreme heat. Which would be something like running full-pace at a track day until reaching brake fade points. Multiple times.
As you might imagine, this kind of heat doesn’t happen in daily driving, so you’re not warping rotors. What is happening is that your rotors are getting heated and eventually leaving deposits of brake pad material in spots, usually that may be a hot zone on the rotor. This buildup continues growing until you feel it pulse.
So, zero percent of you have warped rotors. You have pad deposits. A good way to prevent this is to bed in your brake pads with your new or resurfaced rotors. Here is a good basic method. There are also others, so don’t take this as gospel: https://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php
rotors can warp, but it takes either a physical strike to them or extreme heat. Which would be something like running full-pace at a track day until reaching brake fade points. Multiple times.
As you might imagine, this kind of heat doesn’t happen in daily driving, so you’re not warping rotors. What is happening is that your rotors are getting heated and eventually leaving deposits of brake pad material in spots, usually that may be a hot zone on the rotor. This buildup continues growing until you feel it pulse.
So, zero percent of you have warped rotors. You have pad deposits. A good way to prevent this is to bed in your brake pads with your new or resurfaced rotors. Here is a good basic method. There are also others, so don’t take this as gospel: https://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php
06-17-19, 07:59 PM
#44
Hey Fun fact..................
Many manufacturers require you to bed in brake pads after installation to ensure proper traction between the brake pad and rotor. This stop-and-go process, sometimes called “burnishing,” alters and usually increases the coefficient of friction between the rotor and pad to ensure stable braking power.
Despite the common use of this practice, however, not all brake pads require breaking in. Akebono’s ultra-premium ceramic disc brake pads do not require this step, because they are precision-engineered to perform and mold to your rotors over time. There is no specific burnishing procedure needed with Akebono brake pads.
When installing Akebono brake pads, technicians should follow all other procedures according to specification. Old rotors should be replaced or resurfaced, and the hub-mounting surface should be cleaned thoroughly and inspected for excessive run-out. Once Akebono’s brake pads have been installed, the job is complete and pads are ready for use—saving time and increasing bay utilization.
Trust Akebono quality to not only eliminate the extra steps and costs of bedding in, but to also ensure your customers stop safe-ly and smoothly every time.
Akebono manufactures 100 percent of its Pro-ACT®, EURO® and Performance® Ultra-Premium ceramic brake pads in the USA.
Despite the common use of this practice, however, not all brake pads require breaking in. Akebono’s ultra-premium ceramic disc brake pads do not require this step, because they are precision-engineered to perform and mold to your rotors over time. There is no specific burnishing procedure needed with Akebono brake pads.
When installing Akebono brake pads, technicians should follow all other procedures according to specification. Old rotors should be replaced or resurfaced, and the hub-mounting surface should be cleaned thoroughly and inspected for excessive run-out. Once Akebono’s brake pads have been installed, the job is complete and pads are ready for use—saving time and increasing bay utilization.
Trust Akebono quality to not only eliminate the extra steps and costs of bedding in, but to also ensure your customers stop safe-ly and smoothly every time.
Akebono manufactures 100 percent of its Pro-ACT®, EURO® and Performance® Ultra-Premium ceramic brake pads in the USA.
Way different than the stock brakes. They were grabby and not strong.
the akebonos and new rotors and the miles driven hard have finally eliminated my thought of scrounging a set of Brembo’s from a later Sport.
double the available pedal modulation variability effect to the tires. You can play with the brakes coming into stops.
fun.
Do it.....
06-18-19, 08:21 AM
#45
Lexus Fanatic
I didn't take the comments as condescending and I'm thankful for the info. If all that's in the post is true then we do seem to lack understanding. It's just a fact (again, if the info in the post was accurate). It's unbelievable that I spent so much time researching warped rotors and never came across the explanation that was given above. It's like, WTF, doesn't anyone know anything? So much posting by people who don't know what they are talking about. That's the internet. Doesn't matter what the subject or where it is - misinformation is everywhere.
Say you properly bed in your rotors (Or is it more correct to say bed in the pads?). What happens if you later mash the brakes on a long downhill stop - say, at a downhill freeway off ramp - and then sit at the stop for a short while. Is that going to wreck your bedded in rotors by leaving a big deposit of pad material?
Really? That surprises me, mine never warped again, P put about 30k miles on them before I traded the car in (vs the stock setup which was warped in 5k miles). I think this is the first example of this with those rotors I've seen. What pads did you use?