Leza2279

Need your help. I have a 2007 LS460with 118,000. I noticed a slight vibration when idling - took the car to a local mechanic and he stated that all three motor mounts should be replaced @ $2,700. This seems a little steep. What would replacement of the motor mounts normally cost? Thanks for your help.

UDel

I would see about a DIY, not sure about the design and if anything special has to be done but I changed out my dads in his Acura and saved a ton of money and the Acura dealer was only charging about $640 to do them, you generally do need to lift the engine with a jack to get them out and put them in.

roadfrog

Someone here at CL has done this job in their driveway. Do a search.

Brewmyown

I replaced my starter (2007) with the car on jack stands. To replace the starter, you have to remove the passenger side motor mount. It takes a few different socket extensions, swivel sockets, etc. but its not super difficult. I didn't look into replacing the drivers side so I cant comment on that one. Can't imagine it being much different but......

stopdrpnro

Of the two threads I've found on here 1 removed the entire subframe and the other gives the manual which says the entire engine has to be removed. Could you give more details on your method??

miket000

The rear mount takes about 20 minutes. Here is how I changed the front 2. The mounts themselves are not cheap approximately $500 for the 3 of them. I wouldn't try aftermarket mounts. I think it took me 9 hours to replace the front 2 mounts.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...placement.html

stopdrpnro

Looks pretty challenging without the garage and tools . I'm brave enough to try just the rear though . Is there a part number for the rear mount? And any write ups, tips or tricks for doing the rear mount on an ls600?? Thanks in advance

colfax

Another motor mount thread, good!
Good because my 07 has 123,000 miles now and I am getting indications of having to deal with this.
I am not a DIY person except to change cabin and motor air filters.
I just had all suspension components replaced at my trusted mechanic for $3000, like new ride.
The dealer wanted $7000 for the same job.
My mechanic tells me he simply does not want to do the replace motor mounts job.
He says it is just too big of a job that he has not done before disconnecting and lifting the motor.
Damn I just hate the thought of having to bring it to a Lexus dealer and pay a hell of a lot.
I have read other threads and will be watching this thread with interest to be educated, thanks.

miket000

For the rear mount I drove the car up onto ramps. The ramps gave adequate room to get under the car for the rear mount but it was a little tight. Jacking up the rear as well would have been helpful. I don't remember exactly the steps I took to replace the mount. This should get you started. I happen to be doing my brakes this morning. Here is a picture of the rear mount bracket.

1. I would support the transmission with a jack. Use a flat piece of wood between the jack and the tranny pan to distribute the load. You don't want to damage the pan.

2. Remove the 4 NUTS holding the bracket to the mount.

3. Remove the 4 BOLTS holding the bracket to the car. Remove the bracket.

4. Remove the 4 bolts (angled ones) holding the mount to the transmission. Remove the mount.

5. Install your new mount secure it to the transmission with the 4 angled bolts. Tighten these bolts now.

6. Install the bracket. Bolt it to the cars frame using the bolts. Thread the bolts in but do not tighten them.

7. Install the 4 nuts on the bottom of the bracket to secure the mount to the bracket. Thread the nuts on but do not tighten them.

8. Tighten the 4 nuts and 4 bolts.

johnnyg66

Did it solve any issues you were experiencing ? Did it look worn out at all?

miket000

Yes my rear mount was completely wore out. The top of it would flop from side to side in my hand. The rubber had failed it was broke apart inside. Replacing it did not help any of my vibrations that I could tell.

I drove the car with the good rear mount a few months before replacing the forward mounts. After the forward mounts were replaced it was like night and day, no more vibrations.

williamb82

I did my engine mounts, Front sway bar bushings, and front end links 4+ weeks ago. I did not remove the engine, or remove the steering shaft from the rack and pinion. Started about 9:30ish AM and finished by 4 PM same day, including breaks and stopping for an hour or more to clean up, make and eat lunch etc... I did not rush at all and did everything by myself with no assistance from anyone.

My car still had a rattle noise at lower speeds after replacing the control arms and brake pad springs, though those did remove some of the noises I was hearing. I also had a very loud thud when flooring it from low speed, and stopped at stop lights sometimes got a crazy vibration in the car, mostly in the dash and steering wheel, mainly when the engine was cold. This pointed to motor mounts obviously and I knew they would need changed thanks to the valve cover gasket leaks that went uncorrected by previous owners due ot the high pressure fuel pumps being mounted to them. I fixed all of those issues months ago.

I bought aftermarket mounts on ebay. $140 shipped for the pair.

I jacked the front up and put it on stands.

Removed all of the lower covers.

Unbolted the 2 motor mount nuts from the underside of the front cross member.

Unbolted the bolts holding the front of the cross member to the bumper support area. They are small. 2 nuts and bolts going through horizontally on each side. A lil tricky to see if you do not know they are there.

Put a transmission scissor jack under the oil pan, and a piece of a 4x4 on top of the jack.

I removed the end links.

I removed the sway bar.

I removed the bolts holding the rack and pinion to the cross member and unplugged the electrical connectors. I did NOT remove the bolt holding it to the steering shaft.

I jacked the engine up as high as it would go without damaging the oil pan.

I removed the 4 large bolts holding the sub frame to the car, and let it drop as far as possible.

I started on the driver side as that is the usual bad mount on rwd cars. I used a flex head ratchet wrench and removed the 10mm bolts holding the metal heat shield to the exhaust manifold.

I used a combination of ratchets, 14mm sockets, ratchet wrenches and swivels etc.. to remove the 6 bolts holding the motor mount bracket to the block

Once unbolted, I turned it so that the top nut for the motor mount holding it to the bracket was facing the rear of the car so I could unbolt it with my 1/2in ratchet.

I pulled the motor mount bracket out.

I then had to "force" the motor mount between the steering shaft and the block. This is why the rack was unbolted, so that it could be pushed to the driver side for max clearance, and would not throw the steering wheel alignment off.

The mount was shot, as I figured, and the source of the remaining rattle I had, and the "Thunk" under hard acceleration. It looks fine when looking at the car on the lift, but the stud coming out of the top moves freely up and down and all around, while the fluid inside of the mount has splashed/poured out.

I slid the new mount in between the block and steering shaft. I had to force it a bit, but not enough to worry about damaging anything.

I slid the bracket in and arranged it so the stud was threw it, with the nut started and facing the rear of the car so I could tighten the nut.

I put the bracket back in place and reinstalled all of the bolts.

I put the heat shield back on.

I moved to the passenger side and unbolted the heat shield, but it would not slid out like the drivers side did, but would move out of the way to allow better access to the motor mount bracket bolts.

Used the same tools in similar methods to remove the six 14mm bolts holding he bracket to the block.

Rotated it so the nut for the top of the mount was facing the rear of the car so I could remove it with a 1/2in ratchet.

Pulled the mount and bracket out. This mount was not as bad. it moved around all over just shaking he mount, so was nearly ripped apart itself.

I installed the new mount and bracket into he location and rotated so the top nut was to the rear so I could tighten it.

I bolted the bracket back to the block.

I bolted the heat shield back to the exhaust manifold.

I put another jack under the cross member and jacked it up into place. I started the 4 bolts, and moved it to make sure the washers on the bolts fit in the same exact spot as before and tightened them. This took some moving back and forth since I was on my back under the car and not on a lift. Removed the jack I used to lift it.

I put the 4 nuts bolts on the very front of the cross member.

I reinstalled the rack and pinion and reconnected the electrical connectors.

I installed the front sway bar with new Poly bushings

I installed the new grease-able end links that I greased before installing.

Lowered the jack holding the engine slowly and made sure the studs are in the cross member and reinstalled the nuts.

Reinstalled all of the lower covers.

Jacked the car up and removed the jack stands and dropped it back to the ground.


I now have no more rattles at low speeds, and there is no more vibrations at all when stopped at traffic lights, even when cold. I will try to post pics or vids of the "bad" mounts to show that they look 100% perfect until they are removed. No cracks in the outer portions at all.

Fhobbs

Wheeeew! I was getting tired just reading. That is some good documentation there, I am quite sure there is no way I could do that but if someone wants to try.... read the post I am replying to.. you’re lucky to have it.

cochiseg

It does look risky/ complicated. Is the jack lifting the engine by pushing on the oil pan? I thought oil pans werent very thick metal!

JLAWS

Williamb82,

Great Job! I'm surprised you rolled the dice on aftermarket motors mounts. Generally those never work out and cause vibration or are not as durable as oem.