which motor oil, Toyota or Mobil 1?
#17
The engine was made for non synthetic oil. 0-20 is too light. 5-20 works better. If using synthetic my shop uses 5-30.
lexus service manager showed me the shop manual which calls for non synthetic oil.
these engines easily run multiple hundreds of thousands of miles on non synthetic
you may be causing long term issues running thin synthetic oil in these.....
lexus service manager showed me the shop manual which calls for non synthetic oil.
these engines easily run multiple hundreds of thousands of miles on non synthetic
you may be causing long term issues running thin synthetic oil in these.....
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CamelKool (08-06-20)
#18
my sc430 was designed for 5-30 conventional oil.
the 10k change interval on 0-20 synthetic is what my local shop guy goes by. 7,500 miles if you are conservative minded
sorry
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CamelKool (08-06-20)
#19
So I believed all of you pros and had the 500 mile 5-20 Dino oil changed to 0-20 valvoline synthetic. Will try the 10k change interval. 7,500 maybe. Will monitor the oil use and report if it consumes the new oil...
#20
I'll look to see if I posted it, and if not, I'll re-diagram it, take pics of the finished construct, with a parts list.
Five gallons of used oil capacity. The system holds only 12 quarts and a little, I know, but I wanted it to come out the same color it went in. That took a bit more.
#21
The engine was made for non synthetic oil. 0-20 is too light. 5-20 works better. If using synthetic my shop uses 5-30.
lexus service manager showed me the shop manual which calls for non synthetic oil.
these engines easily run multiple hundreds of thousands of miles on non synthetic
you may be causing long term issues running thin synthetic oil in these.....
lexus service manager showed me the shop manual which calls for non synthetic oil.
these engines easily run multiple hundreds of thousands of miles on non synthetic
you may be causing long term issues running thin synthetic oil in these.....
#22
Well, the 1UR-FSE engine was designed when dino oil was the standard. Hopefully, the Toyota-approved changeover from dino to synthetic oil in 2010 was made with due attention to engine wear and was not just a means of eeking an extra 0.001% fuel economy to boost their CAFE numbers, or to please the marketers with a 10,000 mile oil change interval!
#23
Well, the 1UR-FSE engine was designed when dino oil was the standard. Hopefully, the Toyota-approved changeover from dino to synthetic oil in 2010 was made with due attention to engine wear and was not just a means of eeking an extra 0.001% fuel economy to boost their CAFE numbers, or to please the marketers with a 10,000 mile oil change interval!
#24
Indeed it is. There is NO dino oil that is better than a synthetic. That doesn't mean that these cars won't last just as long on dino, or that synthetic will give better performance, but synthetic oils are PROVEN to be superior in every way. There is no downside to synthetic. And before you say "cost", that isn't true either if you consider that you can drive twice as long on a synthetic (within warranty requirements of course.)
#25
Thank you so much for all the replies.
I am thinking about OW-20 over 5W-20 due to "fuel economy". I am in TX.
Anyone in TX using OW-20 too and happy with it even though we don't go too cold in winter?
I am thinking about OW-20 over 5W-20 due to "fuel economy". I am in TX.
Anyone in TX using OW-20 too and happy with it even though we don't go too cold in winter?
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CamelKool (08-06-20)
#27
The metion of the toyota oils having extra ingredients in them matches one of the top NASCAR racers engine increased cam shaft wear.
smog laws are requiring engine oil changes. Some may cause more wear.
the older conventional oils had more additives in them than the new low friction low smog stuff now.
the LS motor was designed in the early 2000’s and as was posted designed around a specific additive package oil.
most conventional oils like the shell rotella I use initially were 50% synthetic even though not labeled.
for sure the previous generation sc430 engine states conventional 5-30 oil in its manual.
five years? later Toyota designed the LS motors.
the 0-20 was not available in bulk originally so Lexus put either 0-20 or 5-20 on the cap.
if I have ring seal issues a help was to dump the synthetic oil and go back to rotella white container for up to 30 hours to reseat the rings. If it did not help a re-ring was the fix.
the idea that my shop has LS 400 cars with 500k miles on them on conventional oils for a large early part of their life’s shows what’s possible.
on the other side Lexus IS in the business of selling new cars. Hard to complain if your car only lasted 175k miles.
if I owned a oil consuming LS car how could I lose if I went to a conventional oil for a while to see?
cylinders may be glazed. Not enough friction?
Versus roll your eyes?
I dumped my 500 mile conventional oil and put in valvoline 0-20 synthetic and will monitor oil use.
next change will be to Toyota oil for the added Moly for wear.
if anyone looks moly can be an abrasive. Maybe helps ring sealing?
Maybe matches the need for a calculated amount of piston ring to cylinder wear needed to insure sealing?
new oils seem to be totally mpg and trace metal smog engineered.
so Lexus added the moly component?
The auto clutch maker for dirt engines requires the non synthetic oil without friction modifiers for their system to work.
exact internal wear on the dirt motors with the 50/50 oil as the full synthetic. Exact.
800 hours on a rod bearing in either setup.
as I mentioned if I were having an oil issue a change to a partially conventional oil for a while then the Toyota moly oil might be worth a test?
several 2000-2010 sc 430’s on this forum with over 300k miles on conventional oils.
sasb turbo’s ran 350k on conventional oils regularly.
#28
i build racing engines since the 60’s. Different crosshatch pattern angles and the grit size used and the metals involved and the rings actual width and material and the piston alloy used and many other details can make an engines optimal for specific kinds of oils.
The metion of the toyota oils having extra ingredients in them matches one of the top NASCAR racers engine increased cam shaft wear.
smog laws are requiring engine oil changes. Some may cause more wear.
the older conventional oils had more additives in them than the new low friction low smog stuff now.
the LS motor was designed in the early 2000’s and as was posted designed around a specific additive package oil.
most conventional oils like the shell rotella I use initially were 50% synthetic even though not labeled.
for sure the previous generation sc430 engine states conventional 5-30 oil in its manual.
five years? later Toyota designed the LS motors.
the 0-20 was not available in bulk originally so Lexus put either 0-20 or 5-20 on the cap.
if I have ring seal issues a help was to dump the synthetic oil and go back to rotella white container for up to 30 hours to reseat the rings. If it did not help a re-ring was the fix.
the idea that my shop has LS 400 cars with 500k miles on them on conventional oils for a large early part of their life’s shows what’s possible.
on the other side Lexus IS in the business of selling new cars. Hard to complain if your car only lasted 175k miles.
if I owned a oil consuming LS car how could I lose if I went to a conventional oil for a while to see?
cylinders may be glazed. Not enough friction?
Versus roll your eyes?
I dumped my 500 mile conventional oil and put in valvoline 0-20 synthetic and will monitor oil use.
next change will be to Toyota oil for the added Moly for wear.
if anyone looks moly can be an abrasive. Maybe helps ring sealing?
Maybe matches the need for a calculated amount of piston ring to cylinder wear needed to insure sealing?
new oils seem to be totally mpg and trace metal smog engineered.
so Lexus added the moly component?
The auto clutch maker for dirt engines requires the non synthetic oil without friction modifiers for their system to work.
exact internal wear on the dirt motors with the 50/50 oil as the full synthetic. Exact.
800 hours on a rod bearing in either setup.
as I mentioned if I were having an oil issue a change to a partially conventional oil for a while then the Toyota moly oil might be worth a test?
several 2000-2010 sc 430’s on this forum with over 300k miles on conventional oils.
sasb turbo’s ran 350k on conventional oils regularly.
And these engines are so different now than the engines you mention in your post, no one is saying you can't use conventional and have success. Just make sure you check that oil and change it, no matter what brand/type you use. 0w20 supposedly has better base stocks than any oil on the market simply because of the high quality base stock required to meet 0w20 viscosity ratings. And there's so many different brands carrying 0w20 - some at outstanding prices - you can get high quality base stocks at a discount if you shop around. I mean supposedly even a Carquest 0w20 contains higher quality base stocks than an Amsoil 5w20 ( not if you're talking about both being 0w20, but if you're comparing a 0w20 to a 5w20 supposedly the value/bargain/bang for the buck is in the 0w20).
Ill tell you what though, 90% of the techs I talk to don't adhere to these long drain intervals one bit. I mean to the man, these guys don't go over 5,000 miles on their oil changes. I was talking to one guy last night - a top tech for Chrysler Jeep Dodge - and he fully believes you shouldn't go over 4,500 miles on any oil, sysnthetic or not. And I hear countless stories of techs feeling the same way. They say, I don't care how improved engine oil is, how many additives do this or that...it's still dirty oil. You still have that junk floating around your engine wearing your rings, stretching your chain, going down your valve guides, getting squishing between your bearings and the filter can't stop it. Think about how dirty that filter gets and that oil just keeps running right through that nasty filter.
I've only met two techs in my life that believe in long oil change intervals, they're both BMW factory reps. And they both tell me how so many BMW engines are being rebuilt at 50,000 miles...how BMW techs overfill the engines with an extra quart of oil, knowing that it'll burn through it so fast that it's necessary to overfill. But they believe in the extended drains, tell me changing oil at 5,000 miles is a waste of time.
#29
And they both tell me how so many BMW engines are being rebuilt at 50,000 miles
#30
That is EXACTLY the mileage that my 7 series began belching blue smoke. It was one of the most depressing automotive experiences I've ever had. I traded it in on my current LS shortly afterwards - and not long after a BMW technician advised me to dump the car and called them "disposable cars".
The following users liked this post:
CamelKool (08-06-20)