Originally Posted by diamente

Luckily on my 2007 LS460 134 miles, I haven't seen this issue yet. The previous owner took it to Lexus but was denied the recall because no issue has shown. If I have this issue in the future, I am taking the unit off and calling the local starter repair person who can install brushes, commutators.



brake actuator Toyota Landcruizer fixed by an electrician.
he said, despite huge price from Toyota ($1,400), its truly just a 12V motor. Nothing exotic or special.
Refinishing the commutator, new bushes, new bearings and its good to go for another 100K.

brake actuator on LX450 fixed. same link as above. scroll down.
"I removed the booster as you guys said and I brought the 12v motor to a car starter specialist and all he did was replace the brush and the commutator. To keep from charging me a premium price, I told him that the motor is for an old toyota forklift, as a result I was only charged $55!"

on the same thread:
"I had similar symptoms but fortunately an easy fix. The "ABS" and "Brake" lights came on and the buzzer sounded within a few seconds of turning the key to the "on" position. I heard the ABS motor relays in the relay box behind the battery clicking but did not hear the booster pump motor operating, so I connected an insulation-piercing test clip to the red heavy-gauge wire from the ABS module to the booster pump motor under the master cylinder. I connected the other test lead to ground to measure the voltage of the red wire when the ABS motor relays were closed. Not only did I see 13 volts on the red wire when the relays were closed (and 0 volts when the relays were open), but I also heard the booster pump motor running for the first time since the failure occurred. It took a while for the booster pump motor to pump up the accumulator, but eventually the "ABS" and "Brake" lights went dark and the buzzer stopped. Apparently just tugging on the red wire to connect the test clip was enough to fix whatever loose connection it had.

I pulled the rubber boot off the screw terminals for the two booster pump motor wires (the red one and a blue one) on the bottom of the ABS module. I disconnected the negative battery terminal from the battery and used a ratcheting Phillips offset screwdriver to tighten the two Phillips screws connecting lugs on the two wires to the ABS module. With only very moderate torque, I was able to tighten the screw for the red wire about 10 degrees of rotation. The brakes worked perfectly during a test drive.

Before you remove the entire ABS module/booster pump/accumulator/master cylinder assembly and introduce air into the brake hydraulic systems, it takes only a multimeter to measure the red wire voltage, a 10mm wrench to remove the battery terminal, and a Phillips offset screwdriver to retorque the screw terminals on the bottom of the ABS module to see, within a few minutes, if you have the same simple problem I had. You might want to read any OBDII codes before you disconnect the battery and erase any codes, although no codes were ever set over the course of my problem. Rather than using an insulation-piercing test clip, it may be better to just touch two test probes across the two screw terminals and measure the actual voltage across the red and blue wires going to the booster pump motor that way. Just be careful not short the red wire to the blue wire or any other ground point or voltage.