Oil Change Interval
11-02-18, 07:10 PM
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
Oil Change Interval
Since the 460 engine hadn't changed (little if at all) from 2007 through 2017 why did Lexus recommend oil change intervals from 5000 to 10000 miles beginning, I think, with the 2014 model year? They were recommending 5000 intervals even with synthetic before 2014. Any significant changes to the engine?
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Richardgil (11-03-18)
11-02-18, 11:40 PM
#3
First its 9 quarts of oil! With a bigger oil supply, nearly 2X more than the V8's from the past, lower operating rpms (thanks 8 speed trans), and the properties of full synthetic it takes longer to break down. 5K-10K today is the equivalent of a 3500 mile interval say... from the 70's or 80's. Then on top of all that, throw in CNC machining producing much tighter engines, with better temp controls w/electric fans in today's engines....
...all that I would think has a LOT to do with it. I would have no problem going 10K between changes, especially IF it was under light use (no towing, no track days, mostly highway, etc...).
...all that I would think has a LOT to do with it. I would have no problem going 10K between changes, especially IF it was under light use (no towing, no track days, mostly highway, etc...).
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Richardgil (11-03-18)
11-03-18, 06:03 AM
#4
There are several threads on this topic but the bottom line is summarized well by the first two replies. I use full synthetic and change it and the filter (OEM) every 5K. Some go to 7,500 miles and others to 10,000 miles.
11-03-18, 06:12 AM
#5
Lexus Test Driver
I went close to 13K on my last change...going to stretch that, probably, to 16K or 17K, depending on how it looks after analysis.
My commute is mostly freeway, no towing, no track (though I don't drive her gently), very little (usually) sitting and idling.
My commute is mostly freeway, no towing, no track (though I don't drive her gently), very little (usually) sitting and idling.
11-03-18, 01:01 PM
#7
Lexus Test Driver
The car burned about a quart every 8K miles when I got it, hasn't gotten any worse...might be better, in fact...almost 40K miles later.
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11-04-18, 04:34 AM
#9
Pole Position
I work in the trade, I'm now seeing the direct injection cars come in with issues. Oil consumption. It's gotten to the point where we just tell people...listen you can try to have your dealer replace the rings under warranty, but they probably won't. They'll tell you it's normal. And for direct injection engines nowadays, it probably is. And these are 6,000 mile oil change intervals we're talking about. Every one of these things are a good quart low...GM, Ford, Honda, VW, BMW. I don't see a lot of Toyota direct injection cars, they were late to the party I guess. Honda didn't jump on board until a few years ago. KIA has been doing it for a while, and they are using oil too. I just bought a new Chevy Silverado with direct injection. The thing uses oil on a new engine. I've installed an oil catch can.
So I am curious how the extended drains do for you long term. I imagine you're using a heavier weight oil than 0w20, right? Probably a high quality oil and filter, I imagine. I think that helps some.
11-04-18, 05:51 AM
#10
Lexus Test Driver
No problem, give me a few years. Four, maybe three-and-a-half, should be enough to get me to 170K.
The main differences between the LS and most, not all, other cars its age is the 9 quart sump, and 80 MPH = 2K RPM.
I use exclusively Mobil 1 in the 5W30 weight. That weight because I had a few cases of it left over from a killer sale several years ago. We're talking less than half price. That and it's rather warm here. Filters are typically Wix, but this time, I picked up three K&N oil filters for $12.
I check the level monthly, so while it seems neglectful if you use 1980's metrics, it should be fine, today.
I've had more than one vehicle, on extended intervals, crack 200K miles, and not burn more than a couple of quarts over that 10K miles, but admittedly, none had DI.
You'd think, oil contamination via the direct injection system would appear on oil analysis reports, right?
The main differences between the LS and most, not all, other cars its age is the 9 quart sump, and 80 MPH = 2K RPM.
I use exclusively Mobil 1 in the 5W30 weight. That weight because I had a few cases of it left over from a killer sale several years ago. We're talking less than half price. That and it's rather warm here. Filters are typically Wix, but this time, I picked up three K&N oil filters for $12.
I check the level monthly, so while it seems neglectful if you use 1980's metrics, it should be fine, today.
I've had more than one vehicle, on extended intervals, crack 200K miles, and not burn more than a couple of quarts over that 10K miles, but admittedly, none had DI.
You'd think, oil contamination via the direct injection system would appear on oil analysis reports, right?
11-04-18, 06:53 AM
#11
I have a 2010 tundra with the 4.6. According to both the lexus and toyota dealership is the same engine that is in my 2010 lexus. I purchased the tundra new and have run 0w20 synth since new at 10K changes. The engine has 110k miles on it and no issues. I purchase the 460 a year ago with 45K miles and will be running synthetic at 10K changes as well.
11-04-18, 03:42 PM
#12
Lexus Fanatic
your car is at 123,000 miles now? I'd be curious to see what these extended drains do long term to your engine as it starts to reach 150,000 and above. That's when my extended drains showed its damage with my car. All of the sudden I went from using a quart and a half through 7,500 miles...to five quarts (when I was at 170,000 miles). It started gradually after 150,000 miles. I blame it on my extended drains, direct injection, 0w20 oil and the fuel dilution these direct injection engines subject the oil to. All that oil started going right up my PCV valve system and right into my intake. Open the throttle body up and it was all there.
I work in the trade, I'm now seeing the direct injection cars come in with issues. Oil consumption. It's gotten to the point where we just tell people...listen you can try to have your dealer replace the rings under warranty, but they probably won't. They'll tell you it's normal. And for direct injection engines nowadays, it probably is. And these are 6,000 mile oil change intervals we're talking about. Every one of these things are a good quart low...GM, Ford, Honda, VW, BMW. I don't see a lot of Toyota direct injection cars, they were late to the party I guess. Honda didn't jump on board until a few years ago. KIA has been doing it for a while, and they are using oil too. I just bought a new Chevy Silverado with direct injection. The thing uses oil on a new engine. I've installed an oil catch can.
So I am curious how the extended drains do for you long term. I imagine you're using a heavier weight oil than 0w20, right? Probably a high quality oil and filter, I imagine. I think that helps some.
11-04-18, 07:15 PM
#13
Pole Position
No problem, give me a few years. Four, maybe three-and-a-half, should be enough to get me to 170K.
The main differences between the LS and most, not all, other cars its age is the 9 quart sump, and 80 MPH = 2K RPM.
I use exclusively Mobil 1 in the 5W30 weight. That weight because I had a few cases of it left over from a killer sale several years ago. We're talking less than half price. That and it's rather warm here. Filters are typically Wix, but this time, I picked up three K&N oil filters for $12.
I check the level monthly, so while it seems neglectful if you use 1980's metrics, it should be fine, today.
I've had more than one vehicle, on extended intervals, crack 200K miles, and not burn more than a couple of quarts over that 10K miles, but admittedly, none had DI.
You'd think, oil contamination via the direct injection system would appear on oil analysis reports, right?
The main differences between the LS and most, not all, other cars its age is the 9 quart sump, and 80 MPH = 2K RPM.
I use exclusively Mobil 1 in the 5W30 weight. That weight because I had a few cases of it left over from a killer sale several years ago. We're talking less than half price. That and it's rather warm here. Filters are typically Wix, but this time, I picked up three K&N oil filters for $12.
I check the level monthly, so while it seems neglectful if you use 1980's metrics, it should be fine, today.
I've had more than one vehicle, on extended intervals, crack 200K miles, and not burn more than a couple of quarts over that 10K miles, but admittedly, none had DI.
You'd think, oil contamination via the direct injection system would appear on oil analysis reports, right?
It's too bad it'll have to wait 3 years, lol. Try driving it a little more. Haha.
Sounds like a great deal on the K&N filters, wow. Nice.
I think the best thing ive read about direct injection is that manufacturers are well aware of the fuel dilution and therefore combat it with the larger sumps. And the oil manufacturers also are aware and have combatted it with additives to maintain viscosity and film strength. I found that my oil always did fine up until 5,000 miles, then it broke down and seemed to become too thin or something...then I'd be adds all the time until I changed it. I used Mobil 1 0w20. Sometimes I'd use 5w30 when I began thinking maybe it'd help if I bumped up the viscosity. But it didn't help.
11-04-18, 07:20 PM
#14
Pole Position
I love it when people say...oh the mechanic is trying to make money off me with these unnecessary oil changes. You kidding me?? These guys aren't making crap off an oil change.
Last edited by Doublebase; 11-04-18 at 07:25 PM.
11-05-18, 02:54 AM
#15
Pole Position
The previous owner had put 5W30, I did an oil change a few weeks ago and put in 0W20. It can get cold here in the winter, not as cold as Canada but maybe around 0 deg celcius. The roads are bad, traffic is constantly start stop..... should I move back to 5W30 next oil change?
