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A quick note for anyone who needs to replace their Trunk Boot Latch Lock. I purchased a replacement from seller JDMPlanet on Ebay (~$280 vs. $450+ on Amazon and probably $800+ at Lexus) and it looks like a genuine, NEW, Toyota part. Replacement of the mechanism is very simple, just three bolts, one electrical connector, and one cable (after taking off the upper cover). Super simple repair, but got stuck trying to figure out why it wasn't working after I reconnected everything.
Ultimately, I saw an old post that stated I needed to reset the power (battery). Just disconnect the battery for a short period of time (minute?), then reconnect. After I reset the power, it was working perfectly.
I'm the next "lucky guy" to experience this trunk failure. The video below (not me) is spot on to my experienced failure (pic below). I'm also in Arizona and as soon as this happened and I started finding little white plastic pieces, I also concluded the AZ heat is responsible for the ultimate failure (no hard trunk slams here).
The miscellaneous white plastic parts at the bottom of the pic below are what grenaded on me (same piece in the video that he had to replace) - took a little while to ultimately get this out (first time) but it is an easy extraction once you get going. Just ordered a replacement part (new OEM) from eBay, hoping it arrives by next weekend in-between work travel.
[QUOTE=Demo82;10398103]A quick note for anyone who needs to replace their Trunk Boot Latch Lock...
Thanks for the info and part suggestion. I took mine apart and using a key ring I was able to hold the two plastic pieces together. It temporarily worked! But eventually failed I believe because the metal on the under side was too mangled to handle the rotations force. Why they would use plastic in their baffles me. Will consider buying the part but for now just use my 🔑
Mine failed the day after the one and only time I left the car out overnight in below-freezing temperatures. Coincidence? My guess is that it was ready to fail and this pushed it over the edge. Car was seven years old at the time. I ordered mine from Bell Lexus in Arizona for $450 minus a $23 promo discount. I replaced it myself in about two hours.
I recently swapped a 2014 unit into my 2011 and it works like a charm. Part number and design looks the same.
A new new unit from Lexus is between $1,019.00 to $1,300.00. I got a unit from a low mileage car that was totaled out.
I have the 2010 LS 460, does anyone know if the trunk actuator was used in any other year?
This is the second time in 5 years with the same problem.
I found this info on another site
Lexus LS 460 TRUNK BOOT LATCHIf you want to save $350 or more, you can also carefully remove the sensor, drill out a 1/16 through hole at the center of the rotary arm & stationary portion...then screw the rotary arm back in place with a tiny screw. I just finished this on mine & it works great. **Just make sure you have a low profile screw head so it doesn't bind into the silver sway arm. Also, you want to wallow out the rotary arm hole a little bigger than the screw - that way the screw only holds into the stationary sensor portion. You don't want the rotary arm engaged w/ the screw trying to turn it.
I kept bumping the "trunk close" button when trying to pull away the trunk lid trim. If you remove the 2 top right fuses 10A & 5A in the left trunk fuse block, the trunk lights & trunk operation will stop while you work on the sensor.
I think I am the only LS460 owner here to have one of their tension rods snap. Finding a replacement for one of those is like searching for the holy grail.
01-01-19, 04:42 PM
Trunk (boot) replacement actuator motor opener
