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08 ls460. I am having the same issues as everyone else. Driver side low beam stopped working and then the passenger side a few days later. All other lights work fine. I have power because the low beams come on for a few seconds and then go off. I am mechanically inclined but not electrically inclined. My plan will be to just buy the block and replace it. My only question is: does the new block come with the fuses and the relays or must I swap out the fuses and buy two new relays? I’m assuming I buy the new relays but I wanted to check with the experts.
Thank you Tlk2megoos and GENXY for your excellent tutorial.
I am the other guy, #2, where this thread started. The original one with the issue had the dealer replacement after making the mistake it was a cheap relay. It turns out you need to replace the whole block since it is integrated. Im tired of pm-ing so here it goes so others can find this in search:
The chances of you having this issue on a 2007/2008 car are 100%. It is only a matter if when, just like the brake controller failure. Symptoms start just like the HID bulb failure where one side or both start but go off intermittently, but sometimes turn and stay on with a few cycles of the headlight switch. Eventually one side will stay off, and you will notice no power to the corresponding fuse. THIS IS YOUR MAIN INDICATOR - DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME WITH THE BALLASTS UNLESS YOU HAVE A WATER BREACH OR OTHER HIDDEN ISSUES WITH THE HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY. (I will get into testing ballasts later). If you have ANY other issue, like a popped fuse, it is something else and not the junction box. I have attached a picture for reference. I and many others on and not on the forums have tried to remedy this issue another way with no avail. If you can dismantle the box, test, prove, and show a different fix, more power to you, but many of us do not have the time. The switch rarely fails (different symptoms), ballasts rarely fail, wiring rarely fails unless there are hidden issues (rodents, accidents, previous owners).
Now, if you were getting power at the fuse, there are two ways to test the ballasts, both include the messy fun of front end disassembly:
1. Remove wheel well covers > remove lower splash guard > remove front bumper > unplug HID bulb connector > disassemble ballast cover under headlamp assembly > unscrew ballast from headlamp housing > repeat on other side > reassemble one unit with opposite ballast to test.
Are we having fun yet?
2. Remove wheel well covers > remove all front and side engine covers> remive lower splash guard > remove front bumper > unplug HID ballast connector > Unbolt Headlamp assembly > pull out headlamp slowly and disconnect washer hose > repeat on other side > plug in opposite headlamp to test.
3. I don't care what that other guy says in one thread, but DO NOT JUMP THE FUSES BETWEEN THE LOW BEAMS unless you want to have a smokin’ hot bod because you just set your car on fire.
Like I said, unless there are hidden issues ballasts will not be your problem. This has become a common issue and Lexus techs are well aware of the procedure now. Good luck.
(tlk2megoos) Well, thanks to your magnificent instructions and illustrations, I was able to change the fuse block with minimal effort, and now both headlights work perfectly. I tried everything before replacing the fuse block, headlights, ballast, fuses, and relays to no avail but when I read your post and followed your instructions it was like a miracle. Thank you so very much for the information because I was about to give up and take it to the dealership. But, I NEVER GIVE UP, and with you help I was successful. (And I don't have small hands or fingers!!) Thanks again.
Well, thanks to your magnificent instructions and illustrations, I was able to change the fuse block with minimal effort, and now both headlights work perfectly. I tried everything before replacing the fuse block, headlights, ballast, fuses, and relays to no avail but when I read your post and followed your instructions it was like a miracle. Thank you so very much for the information because I was about to give up and take it to the dealership. But, I NEVER GIVE UP, and with you help I was successful. (And I don't have small hands or fingers!!) Thanks again.
I figured this issue out. I replaced the lenses on my headlights, and had to remove them from the car to do so. Someone had run a jumper wire from the red input wire on the ballast inside the headlight housing, and tapped into the +12 line going to the fog light under it. I removed this jumper and sealed the tapped sections of the stock wires. They didn't need to do this, they could have tapped into the wire feeding the headlight assembly itself. Anyhow, I got the new junction block yesterday and will be installing it today so my low beams will work on stock wiring.
Originally Posted by williamb82
Ok, I have a strange issue. If I turn the fog lights off, the low beams do not work. If I turn them on, they both come on fine, low beams, and fog lights. Has anyone else experienced this? I have not gotten to check wiring. I suspect someone jumped some wires under the junction box mentioned as my car was missing the cover for it when I bought the car.
Ok, I just swapped the box. Took maybe 10min tops as all the plastic covers are missing under my hood. I did find it really easy to undo the connectors, and have a tip that might help others. Remove the 2 bolts I outlined for the module next to the junction box and move it off to the right. The connectors of this module do not need unplugged. This allowed me to slide the junction block away from the fender towards the engine and tilt the edge next to the fender upwards, which made accessing the connectors a breeze. I reinstalled it the exact same way. I apparently got lucky as the 2 relays in my old box were not stuck. I was able to pull them out without damaging them and insert into the new fuse block. My low beams now work with the fog lights off! lol. I didn't have my phone outside to take pics when I did this as I was on a 15min break for work. The pic below is one i saved from above and just added the red marks.
I took my old junction box apart to see if it would be easy to replace the integrated relays to keep this thing as a spare. Well, I see no easy way to replace the micro Denso relays on the board. I would have to bend and de-soldier so much, I just dont feel its worth it to waste the time on it. Here is a pic for the curious. The white blocks are the relays.
I have the same exact issue but I have a 2007 IS350. Of course the part # isn't the same. Can anyone tell me if it's still #2 relay block that has the integrated relays?
I am having the same issue. Running lights work, only the driver side low beam is not working. The passenger side works. I replaced the bulb and it is still not lighting. I found these on youtube:
Sorry for bumping an old thread. Thanks for all of the info I just replaced my fuse box and it fixed my issue. After replacing the fuse box my power steering stopped working. The power steering light is on on the dash too. I know I need to scan it but has this happened to anyone else? I’ve disconnected my battery several times in the past but this is the first time this has happened.
The steering is electric. There are seals that wear out, allowing moisture and corrosion in. AWD vs RWD are different. Be sure to reference model year and if you have Lane Keeping option as well. If it stopped working while you were fixing your light relay board, you may have a loose connector. You weren't clear about how much time had passed since the relay board repair.
Short story.
My passenger side low beam started to go out from time to time. I replaced both bulbs with LED bulbs and they worked fine for a year. Now passenger side started acting the same way as before. Recently both lights would go off after a few minutes. I found various threads on this issue and decided to change the fuse block under the hood. After I changed the fuse block I still have the same problem but now the driver's side goes out. I'm totally confused.
Short story.
My passenger side low beam started to go out from time to time. I replaced both bulbs with LED bulbs and they worked fine for a year. Now passenger side started acting the same way as before. Recently both lights would go off after a few minutes. I found various threads on this issue and decided to change the fuse block under the hood. After I changed the fuse block I still have the same problem but now the driver's side goes out. I'm totally confused.
I'm glad that this thread is still helping after all these years, here are a few thoughts on your situation:
- Did you check power to the HP-LL R and HP-LL L fuses? This is the main diagnosis after the indicator of your lights intermittently working / working only on one side / not working at all. If both fuses are showing power, it is something else (ballast, wiring, switch) and go down that troubleshooting path.
- HID and LED are not meant to be interchangeable, it may be as simple as changing to the proper HID bulb if your ballast/wiring was not fried. Try the bulb if the fuse test above checks ok.
- Did you get the fuse block new and is it an authentic TOYOTA part?
i ran into the same issue and I think you’re right. YouTube is saying it’s a the electrical grounding wire issue. A guy cleaned it and it worked. It’s what I am going to try first. Will report back
Originally Posted by PwrdbyM
Don't over complicate your problem. This is autoshop 101- go back to basics and figure out why you don't have power to the fuse box. If you can locate a wiring diagram this will help you trace the power routing for the headlights, then it's as simple as tracing it back to the relays, testing them, etc.... You could have a wire short somewhere, a component that is shorting, a bad relay, a bad switch, etc.....
When you say no power to the fuse panel--you're pulling the fuse and testing the inbound power at the box for voltage? With the switch on you have no power there?
You can use any 12 volt battery to apply power to components with wire extensions. I have a small mower battery in my shop connected to leads for this type of troubleshooting. You might start by applying power to the outbound fuse panel side to see if the lights come on.
My 2011 LS460 Passenger-Side Low Beams would not come on until I turned the switch on and off about a dozen times—It eventually stopped working completely. I was all set to order the replacement module, but I tried the 'Deoxit' trick first. I removed the 15 amp low beam fuses and sprayed the hell out of the connection. It's been working great for about a month. I hope it's the permanent solution.
09-24-21, 04:39 AM
The real deal mechanic (tlk2megoos)
