Originally Posted by DriverSS

All this misinformation.. Listen, I'm a ex-mechanic, been 30+ years, since then I've been a Service Advisor and all my life have been in and out of shops/dealerships. So I have more exposure than some... I refused as a Advisor to sell customers stuff they DID NOT need and had to quit when a service manager thought that "sales" was more important than being trusted by my "service" customers... Some things just are not worth the hassle.

Flushes - DON'T DO IT. If someone is trying to sell you that crap under the auspices it gets all the fluid out of the torque converter, rejuvenates seals, etc.. run away... Likely they will hook up to your cooler lines, run a machine that puts way too much pressure on your trans seals, often backwards (back flushing), and the fluid will get changed but your seals may let go. Its simply not worth the risk that the lowest paid grunt in the garage is using your 90K Lexus to learn on. And they don't usually change the fluid in those machines between vehicles. You get whatever their bulk oil supplier provides. Even at the Dealership. This is the same crap they want to sell you for Coolant Flushes too. Then you get into oil additives, brake flushes etc...

Service Intervals & Lifetime Trans Fluid - Don't know who started the whole "lifetime trans fluid" stuff but they are simply wanting to sell you a new trans or new car every 150-200K miles... Generally speaking, Every 100K, drop the pan, new filter, new pan gasket, reassemble, top it back off, cycle through the gears forward and back, check levels then go for another 100K. Change more often if manufacturer specifies or if used to trailer or haul heavy loads.

Brake Fluid Service Intervals: The same transmission intervals goes for maintaining your brake lines/system. If you don't drive much, low mileage, maybe every 3-4 yrs then. You should be able to simply loosen top of reservoir, add new fluid, have a helper pump the brakes for you, bleed each corner, checking fluid often, bleed until it comes out clear. Note: The LS with its electro-hydraullic brake actuator some people report needing Techstream to perform a bleed and not get a code others have said they did it just fine without it. I don't know if the people needing the Techstream are flying solo or doing it old school (pump the brakes/crack a bleeder) or what... I haven't needed to do mine yet but will clarify once I do. I will get a helper to pump the brakes old school and report back. Anyway... Never use brake fluid that's been opened for more than a few weeks, metal cans are better. Never do this when its raining either. Blake fluid is hydroscopic, attracts water/moisture, the enemy of your brake system. I like ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid. It's a DOT 4 fluid. Sadly after 15 ys on the market the Feds outlawed it because it was ... BLUE. (wtf?) So ATE TYP 200 is what I use now. The SL.6 is thinner but boiling point is slightly lower. It's available on Amazon. Should only take 1L to do a full bleed but get 2 cans just in case. If you come up short its just not worth it.
Note: Stay VERY far away from any silicone based "racing" DOT 5 or DOT 6 brake fluid. That stuff attracts moisture much more aggressively, needs to be replaced in a fraction of the time (seriously).

Hope this all helps.