2008 LS 460 Valve covers
03-15-19, 04:41 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
2008 LS 460 Valve covers
I managed to take off the right side valve cover and the fuel pump. Both were leaking and needed the seals replaced. The only problem I encountered was sliding (at an angle) the cover back to its original position. It seems the two tall bolts that stick out to tie in the fuel pump along with the metal damper valve connector get in the way.
Anyone has any ideas on how to slide it in? I’ve tried every angle but cannot. I decided to take a break from it and continue tomorrow.
I doubt I’ll do the driver side if it’s a pain like the passsngers side. It’s a pain to remove and remount. Any advise would be appreciated.
Anyone has any ideas on how to slide it in? I’ve tried every angle but cannot. I decided to take a break from it and continue tomorrow.
I doubt I’ll do the driver side if it’s a pain like the passsngers side. It’s a pain to remove and remount. Any advise would be appreciated.
03-15-19, 04:44 PM
#2
Driver
Thread Starter
By the way, it was also a pain to remove the cover. I had to somehow slide it out from left to right. I was trying to make sure the damper valve metal connection did not get bent or damaged.
Im staring to regret taking on the task. Other that that it’s a pretty straight forward task.
Im staring to regret taking on the task. Other that that it’s a pretty straight forward task.
03-15-19, 06:15 PM
#3
Use an inverted torx to pull the 2 studs.
Support the engine cradle with a jack.
You can pull the passenger rear cradle bolt, loosen the front cradle bolt ~1".
pull the 2 rear 14mm and front 2 14mm bolts.
Use the jack to lower the cradle on the passenger side.
The engine will roll to the passenger side giving you a little more room.
I used a piece of cardboard and punched holes to layout the bolt pattern.
The job is time consuming but not hard. Check a plug or 2 while there. I had 2 leaking plug seals leaking into the spark plug tubes.
Support the engine cradle with a jack.
You can pull the passenger rear cradle bolt, loosen the front cradle bolt ~1".
pull the 2 rear 14mm and front 2 14mm bolts.
Use the jack to lower the cradle on the passenger side.
The engine will roll to the passenger side giving you a little more room.
I used a piece of cardboard and punched holes to layout the bolt pattern.
The job is time consuming but not hard. Check a plug or 2 while there. I had 2 leaking plug seals leaking into the spark plug tubes.
03-15-19, 07:44 PM
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
Use an inverted torx to pull the 2 studs.
Support the engine cradle with a jack.
You can pull the passenger rear cradle bolt, loosen the front cradle bolt ~1".
pull the 2 rear 14mm and front 2 14mm bolts.
Use the jack to lower the cradle on the passenger side.
The engine will roll to the passenger side giving you a little more room.
I used a piece of cardboard and punched holes to layout the bolt pattern.
The job is time consuming but not hard. Check a plug or 2 while there. I had 2 leaking plug seals leaking into the spark plug tubes.
Support the engine cradle with a jack.
You can pull the passenger rear cradle bolt, loosen the front cradle bolt ~1".
pull the 2 rear 14mm and front 2 14mm bolts.
Use the jack to lower the cradle on the passenger side.
The engine will roll to the passenger side giving you a little more room.
I used a piece of cardboard and punched holes to layout the bolt pattern.
The job is time consuming but not hard. Check a plug or 2 while there. I had 2 leaking plug seals leaking into the spark plug tubes.
Dont know if I'll be doing the driver side. It looks more challengin.
Thanks for for the advise.
03-16-19, 07:32 PM
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
Got it done, (don’t know how but it’s done). I put everything back together but I did not do the driver side cover because I did not want to deal with it, (although it looks easier). Anyone ever done the driver side?
I ended up replacing the driver side fuel pump gaskets which were super easy.
Its funny how both fuel pump gaskets were messed up even though they were allegedly done already via recall. I’m starting to think they have a defect of some sort.
Thanks for all the advise 🙄
I ended up replacing the driver side fuel pump gaskets which were super easy.
Its funny how both fuel pump gaskets were messed up even though they were allegedly done already via recall. I’m starting to think they have a defect of some sort.
Thanks for all the advise 🙄
03-18-19, 10:44 AM
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
was the driver side more challenging than the passanger? I had a difficult time sliding in and out the valve cover on the passangers side because of the tight space. I do t know if I want to deal with it again on the drivers side even though it looks like there is more space.
The down side to that is that there is more things in the way on the drivers side like hoses and wires.
Any advise?
The down side to that is that there is more things in the way on the drivers side like hoses and wires.
Any advise?
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03-18-19, 10:53 AM
#8
There are a few differences. the fuel lines above the high pressure pump. Pull the orange covers off and press blue/green rectangle to release. I tucked under them out of the way. I also had to lift up the stainless hard lines at the top of the valve cover to get at 1 of the bolts. I pulled the ignition module out of the way which sits ahead of the strut tower; 2 bolts 1 nut 10mm. The large connectors disconnect by pulling the whit portion out.
The procedure is identical to passenger otherwise. Pull your high press pump studs to make pulling the valvecover easier.
The procedure is identical to passenger otherwise. Pull your high press pump studs to make pulling the valvecover easier.
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