Spark plug tube seal replacement?
#32
Yes they can be removed. You need E sockets, Female torx sockets or reverse torx bit sockets. A last resort is vise grips on the very end. I don't remember this size currently.
an example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-...13PC/206031060
OUTER SEAL:
If you pull the seal from the valvecover. I put the rtv between the metal ring of the outer seal to compress between the ring and valve cover. No external leaks.
INNER SEAL:
You have an internal leak from inside the valvecover to inside the spark plug tube.
The inner plastic seal I pushed in until it contacted the top metal tube. I used a flat blade screwdriver and worked around until the inner seal no longer moved. This of the inner seal as a lid and the metal tube id the cylinder like a pringles can. You are pushing the lid to contact the top of the can.
an example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-...13PC/206031060
OUTER SEAL:
If you pull the seal from the valvecover. I put the rtv between the metal ring of the outer seal to compress between the ring and valve cover. No external leaks.
INNER SEAL:
You have an internal leak from inside the valvecover to inside the spark plug tube.
The inner plastic seal I pushed in until it contacted the top metal tube. I used a flat blade screwdriver and worked around until the inner seal no longer moved. This of the inner seal as a lid and the metal tube id the cylinder like a pringles can. You are pushing the lid to contact the top of the can.
#34
Pull the coil pack completely out. Reach into the hole with your finger and pull the inner ring out. The inner piece is the one you will push all the way in against the metal tube. The inner piece comes out to allow room for a spark plug socket to easily fit into the bore.
#36
Ok, I have an update. The OEM spark plug seals that I ordered worked. No more oil in the spark plugs.
The problem now is that the car is still shuddering or vibrating at certain low speeds of acceleration. I’m dumbfounded as to what it can be.
The check engine light went on and I ran a diagnostic. It says replace bank 1 and 2, but these two codes have kinda always been an issue in the past way before this problem. The problem is I don’t think that would cause the car to act this way.
Many ideas as to what it can be from anyone?
The problem now is that the car is still shuddering or vibrating at certain low speeds of acceleration. I’m dumbfounded as to what it can be.
The check engine light went on and I ran a diagnostic. It says replace bank 1 and 2, but these two codes have kinda always been an issue in the past way before this problem. The problem is I don’t think that would cause the car to act this way.
Many ideas as to what it can be from anyone?
#40
If the MAFs are bad the engine will not run correctly and will cause vibrations. Compound this with the fact that your car has 170K on it and the engine/trans mounts have likely never been changed, and you get what you're describing here.
#41
i gapped my plugs at .044
those were the spark plug manufacturers (denso) recommendations. The manual recommends .040, would that be an issue or cause?
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