Locations of engine lifting or hanging points?
02-07-20, 10:36 AM
#16
Driver
Thread Starter
@miket000 Ok, I'm finally circling back to this. I had to fix one of my other Toyotas, and while I was under it I had another thought for an approach-
If the main reason for not being able to lower the subchassis on longer bolts as I had plotted is because you have to push it back to accommodate the crash bar, why not remove the crash bar (lower, front, suspension crossmember)? Taking the bumper off doesn't seem too tough. I have seen a few threads of owners doing body mods and radiator changes pop it off. If that is the main hangup with difficulty in sliding it back in place, that might be an easier option for me rather than having to lift and slide it with the accuracy you describe it requiring.
Remember, I don't have anyone that can help me lift, and rather than rig up some straps as an assistant or something else, this would eliminate a lot of steps. It would be a bit safer, too. If everything is in-situ and aligned to the bolts, I think the rack could even stay in place, and maybe even the control arms just loosened (not too hard to pop them out if needed) depending on how much space is needed. Yes, its adding some steps, but taking off a bumper doesn't require a lot of specialized tools and can be done with the car on the ground. It removes some very hard things from the equation for those of us with no assistants. Even if I did it using your method, wouldn't it eliminate that kink in the reassembly you describe?
Then at this point, one could jack up the engine or hang it (or both), and lower the mounting bolts (or buy longer ones and substitute them for the job) and lower the frame to get access. Oh and probably disconnect the steering shaft.
Am I (maybe, probably) missing something ? Sure, there would still be plenty of cussing involved, but maybe rated PG-13 instead of R level cussing?
Let me know what you think. Your method was awesome, but I really want to find a "lighter" solution for this issue that ALL of us have or will have to deal with eventually.
Thanks!
If the main reason for not being able to lower the subchassis on longer bolts as I had plotted is because you have to push it back to accommodate the crash bar, why not remove the crash bar (lower, front, suspension crossmember)? Taking the bumper off doesn't seem too tough. I have seen a few threads of owners doing body mods and radiator changes pop it off. If that is the main hangup with difficulty in sliding it back in place, that might be an easier option for me rather than having to lift and slide it with the accuracy you describe it requiring.
Remember, I don't have anyone that can help me lift, and rather than rig up some straps as an assistant or something else, this would eliminate a lot of steps. It would be a bit safer, too. If everything is in-situ and aligned to the bolts, I think the rack could even stay in place, and maybe even the control arms just loosened (not too hard to pop them out if needed) depending on how much space is needed. Yes, its adding some steps, but taking off a bumper doesn't require a lot of specialized tools and can be done with the car on the ground. It removes some very hard things from the equation for those of us with no assistants. Even if I did it using your method, wouldn't it eliminate that kink in the reassembly you describe?
Then at this point, one could jack up the engine or hang it (or both), and lower the mounting bolts (or buy longer ones and substitute them for the job) and lower the frame to get access. Oh and probably disconnect the steering shaft.
Am I (maybe, probably) missing something ? Sure, there would still be plenty of cussing involved, but maybe rated PG-13 instead of R level cussing?
Let me know what you think. Your method was awesome, but I really want to find a "lighter" solution for this issue that ALL of us have or will have to deal with eventually.
Thanks!
02-07-20, 02:10 PM
#17
Hi Unabee. If you are able to lower the subframe with long bolts they will need to be REALLY long 10" -15" to remove the mounts.
If I were in your shoes I would try my method first. If your using a lift I think you can do it by yourself. I'm 180lbs for reference. I think I could do it by myself with a lift. If you have trouble lifting the subframe in just unbolt the 2 steel sway bar mount pieces. Those 2 steel pieces are heavy they make the subframe unbalanced and awkward to lift. With them removed maneuvering the alloy subframe will probably be easy, even without a lift.
If for some reason you do run into trouble then you can always take off the bumper and crash bar as a last step. I think some straps would be faster. Either way I think you'll find the job really isn't that difficult.
As I remember the steering rack uses the subframe and engine bracket as a mount. The rack will need to come out. It's very easy to take out since it doesn't have any hydraulic lines.
A few weeks ago when I was browsing on here I found an instruction bulletin from lexus. It was in response to a driveline vibration issue some were experiencing. Lexus actually instructed to change the mount by subframe removal. It may have been a tsb I don't recall. I didn't actually read the entire procedure but if you can track it down it might be helpful. I thought that was curious as I read someone else pointed out the manual calls for engine removal. I guess even lexus realized there are faster methods.
If I were in your shoes I would try my method first. If your using a lift I think you can do it by yourself. I'm 180lbs for reference. I think I could do it by myself with a lift. If you have trouble lifting the subframe in just unbolt the 2 steel sway bar mount pieces. Those 2 steel pieces are heavy they make the subframe unbalanced and awkward to lift. With them removed maneuvering the alloy subframe will probably be easy, even without a lift.
If for some reason you do run into trouble then you can always take off the bumper and crash bar as a last step. I think some straps would be faster. Either way I think you'll find the job really isn't that difficult.
As I remember the steering rack uses the subframe and engine bracket as a mount. The rack will need to come out. It's very easy to take out since it doesn't have any hydraulic lines.
A few weeks ago when I was browsing on here I found an instruction bulletin from lexus. It was in response to a driveline vibration issue some were experiencing. Lexus actually instructed to change the mount by subframe removal. It may have been a tsb I don't recall. I didn't actually read the entire procedure but if you can track it down it might be helpful. I thought that was curious as I read someone else pointed out the manual calls for engine removal. I guess even lexus realized there are faster methods.
Last edited by miket000; 02-07-20 at 02:40 PM.
02-07-20, 04:46 PM
#19
I think this is it. This isn't the thread I previously read but I'm guessing it is the tsb. In this thread replacing the mounts is mentioned.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-4th-gen-2007-2017/849142-2014-ls460-tsbs.html
TSB L-SB-0103-14
meh, that might not be it. I remember specifically reading about the subframe.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-4th-gen-2007-2017/849142-2014-ls460-tsbs.html
TSB L-SB-0103-14
meh, that might not be it. I remember specifically reading about the subframe.
Last edited by miket000; 02-07-20 at 06:24 PM.
02-07-20, 07:24 PM
#21
I see, I forgot about that piece. Back to your original plan then
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