Blackstone Lab Reprt
#16
I sent an oil sample away to an independent analysis firm who is not trying to sell me their oil. All of the metals they tested for were well within spec, there were no contaminants, there was still a high level of detergents, showing that in their expert opinion the oil still had a lot of life left. They did not recommend using or not using any specific brand, and wrote a long paragraph on how everything was operating at a very high level and that I could potentially extend my change interval by 50%. No factual evidence? Maybe not. But "some guy on the internet" tells me in spite of all that I am using garbage oil but doesn't give me any actual evidence to support his claim. Where do I get this much more expensive oil?😂
The good metal wear values indicates mainly* the healthy of the engine itself rather than the oil it is using.
#18
That's what will happen (maybe not after 5 years) if you change your oil every 10 k and don't bother to touch your transmission pan filter or fluid at all.
#20
I still change mine under 5k miles. Dirty oils can still have a lot of detergents in it. But yes, you are still better changing it more often. Whether your car can get another 100k mikes out of it if you change your oil more often or use better oil? I can’t say bc it comes down to if you’re engine is sludging or gelling. I would focus more on make sure that PCV valve is not clogged.
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Moisture (12-12-19)
#21
Newer vehicle = Lexus trying harder to get you to not take care of it properly = you find yourself seated instead a brand new lexus again 5 years later , = more money for lexus. simple.
That's what will happen (maybe not after 5 years) if you change your oil every 10 k and don't bother to touch your transmission pan filter or fluid at all.
That's what will happen (maybe not after 5 years) if you change your oil every 10 k and don't bother to touch your transmission pan filter or fluid at all.
I choose to change mine every 5k, but I'm 110% confident 10k changes would be fine and that I would no longer own the car before any impact of those longer changes would be seen, if there were any impact.
As for Mobil 1, I would be interested to see what you base the statement that its "Garbage oil" on. Surely there are easily shared factual reasons (I don't use Mobil 1 BTW)
#23
#24
Mobil 1 being overrated and shear test failures has been documented over 10 years ago and discussed heavily in BITOG. I’m sure they have reformulated their additives pack in their oil. Ive long lost that article on the tests of Mobil 1, Amsoil, Pennzoil, Royal Purple, etc.
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Moisture (12-12-19)
#26
I’m not knocking on Mobil 1. I just saying it didn’t perform well on the independent testing some years ago. I know synthetics aren’t all the same but dont care all that much bc I change my oil often so I get Pennzoil and Castro full synthetics at the price of Walmart Full Synthetic. I think Walmart Super Tech is a Group III synthetic oil? It has a tendency to break down around 4k miles.
#27
#28
There is absolutely nothing wrong with Mobil 1, or any other of these over the counter brand name synthetic oils. They're all hydrocracked group 3 synthetics with excellent (and similar) add packs, capable of your 5,000-7,500 mile intervals...more if you're brave, top off frequently and don't believe that timing chains and direct injection put a strain on oil. Some would argue that all of these oils (Mobil1, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Castrol, etc) can hold their add packs better than a group 4 oil, at half the cost. All of these oils are capable of negating some of the low speed preignition of direct injection and valve coking.
But I'll say this...I would not do extended drains in a 2007 LS460. I did that once, was a great idea until I reached about 150,000 miles. Then the oil consumption started...little bit at first, then more, then more. Had so much blow bye getting past those rings that my intake was always tracking oil. Spark plugs would get coated with oil. Valve guides were worn, rings. I blame the never ending quest for corporate average fuel economy (cafe) regulations...lower tension rings, longer drains, lighter oils. Five thousand miles is the most ill do now...6,000 if I'm stretching it. And I always make sure my oil level is up.
But I'll say this...I would not do extended drains in a 2007 LS460. I did that once, was a great idea until I reached about 150,000 miles. Then the oil consumption started...little bit at first, then more, then more. Had so much blow bye getting past those rings that my intake was always tracking oil. Spark plugs would get coated with oil. Valve guides were worn, rings. I blame the never ending quest for corporate average fuel economy (cafe) regulations...lower tension rings, longer drains, lighter oils. Five thousand miles is the most ill do now...6,000 if I'm stretching it. And I always make sure my oil level is up.
#29
There is absolutely nothing wrong with Mobil 1, or any other of these over the counter brand name synthetic oils. They're all hydrocracked group 3 synthetics with excellent (and similar) add packs, capable of your 5,000-7,500 mile intervals...more if you're brave, top off frequently and don't believe that timing chains and direct injection put a strain on oil. Some would argue that all of these oils (Mobil1, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Castrol, etc) can hold their add packs better than a group 4 oil, at half the cost. All of these oils are capable of negating some of the low speed preignition of direct injection and valve coking.
But I'll say this...I would not do extended drains in a 2007 LS460. I did that once, was a great idea until I reached about 150,000 miles. Then the oil consumption started...little bit at first, then more, then more. Had so much blow bye getting past those rings that my intake was always tracking oil. Spark plugs would get coated with oil. Valve guides were worn, rings. I blame the never ending quest for corporate average fuel economy (cafe) regulations...lower tension rings, longer drains, lighter oils. Five thousand miles is the most ill do now...6,000 if I'm stretching it. And I always make sure my oil level is up.
But I'll say this...I would not do extended drains in a 2007 LS460. I did that once, was a great idea until I reached about 150,000 miles. Then the oil consumption started...little bit at first, then more, then more. Had so much blow bye getting past those rings that my intake was always tracking oil. Spark plugs would get coated with oil. Valve guides were worn, rings. I blame the never ending quest for corporate average fuel economy (cafe) regulations...lower tension rings, longer drains, lighter oils. Five thousand miles is the most ill do now...6,000 if I'm stretching it. And I always make sure my oil level is up.
#30
If you have an engine that is using oil switching to a different brand oil is not going to stop it from using oil.