Spudo769

Got the lab report back today, 2007 SWB, 110,000 miles on it, 8600 on the oil. Got a glowing report, said engine is in great shape and that I should be OK to go 10-11k miles between changes. They said usually on this type of motor the oil begins to degrade around 6 k miles, and pointed out mine handled over 8600 no problem. Rethinking my plan of getting e newer LS in the spring, maybe keep this for another year. Still on original control arms, brake actuator and tranny fluid. I am talking with my local Toyota dealer about a tranny drain and fill, and looking for an independent mechanic in my town that may be able to do the control arms when needed.

3GSShoe

Good stuff. Which oil and weights are you using? The reason why the LS can go longer than some other car is because it’s a V8. It also hold more oil and thus more detergent. I thought about getting a secondary filter and catch can but there’s no room under the dang hood.

Moisture

10-11K mile on oil is absurd. which oil do u use?

Spudo769

Mobil 1 0w-20 Advanced Fuel Economy. I doubt I will stretch it that many miles, I have been doing 7500 up to now. Might stretch to 9k.

Moisture

Mobil 1 is some of the most garbage oil you can buy.

Try Motul 5W30

fwhomeboy

Oh boy. Somebody gonna have fun with this one.

3GSShoe

Haha. I use penzoil platinum, or motul if I can find them. As long as you change your oil, you should be okay.

Moisture

Pennzoil platinum is a great oil..

3GSShoe

Stopped using Mobil 1 some years ago due to shear test failure but I know the LS can do 10k intervals with most synthetic oils. I still do 5k just bc pennzoil can be had on sale for less than half the price of Mobil 1. Coupled that bulk OEM filters, my oil changes are about $30-35 DIY.

Moisture

Well done.

Spudo769

If it is such garbage why do the professional testers not recommend I don't use it? Why does it get great numbers on TBN testing? This doesn't seem broke so I don't plan on fixing it. I typically get this for about $4.50 per quart, so around $45 per DIY change with OEM filter.

3GSShoe

I don't think it really matters. Get whatever full synthetic and keep up with the intervals. If you dont trust the oil, just shorten the interval. I have loads of Pennzoil PP and PU oils stocked. Also got have jugs of Castrol Magnatec.

Moisture

Not all synthetics are created equal. There are non synthetic dyno blends out there which perform better than some synthetics, and obviously, vice versa.

Another thing to note - is that , just because it is widely used, and everyone says theres nothing wrong with it based on zero factual evidence does not mean you're actually putting good quality oil into your car.

Chaos236

iTrader: (1)

What is your background,knowledge base that make you an expert?

Spudo769

I sent an oil sample away to an independent analysis firm who is not trying to sell me their oil. All of the metals they tested for were well within spec, there were no contaminants, there was still a high level of detergents, showing that in their expert opinion the oil still had a lot of life left. They did not recommend using or not using any specific brand, and wrote a long paragraph on how everything was operating at a very high level and that I could potentially extend my change interval by 50%. No factual evidence? Maybe not. But "some guy on the internet" tells me in spite of all that I am using garbage oil but doesn't give me any actual evidence to support his claim. Where do I get this much more expensive oil?😂