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AZGS4 Nice color! I hope everything went smooth. I'm curious did you jack up the entire front end with that floor jack? I didn't realize there is a suitable jack point there.
Yes exactly what johnnyg66 said. There is a semi-circle on the shield that lines up with the cross member and the jack point is within that semi-circle.
I got a later start than I thought on the mounts and have only been able to work an hour or two between calls and other stuff popping up, but I will have them done tomorrow. I am about 50% done on disassembly and have good views of the old mounts now. Access to all the bolts etc. does not look as bad as I thought it might be. I will be dropping the subframe in the morning and going at it. Passenger side Passenger side Driver side Driver side
If I were you, I would mark subframe position with respect to the car body. If you install off enough, it will be impossible to align wheels. Dealers charge a ton of money to realign the subframe.
I just put a light coat of spray paint on each bolt head and washers combination at all 4 of the subframe attachment points. This should allow me to get it all lined back up perfectly when I reattach the subframe......at least that is my plan.
I think when I have to do this to mine, I'm just going to reach under the mattress and get two fresh $100 dollar bills and take it to the Lexus Dealer and have them do it for me. Straight Cash Homie!! Money Talks.
I just put a light coat of spray paint on each bolt head and washers combination at all 4 of the subframe attachment points. This should allow me to get it all lined back up perfectly when I reattach the subframe......at least that is my plan.
I completed installation of the front engine mounts today and reinstalled the subframe. Because I am also replacing all of my control arms and tie rods I ended up removing the steering rack and subframe completely. Although it is more upfront work, this gave me a mostly wide open shot at each of the mounts and it was easy to get the brackets holding the mounts off without any conflicts. I was also able to get good torque on all of the bolts when I reinstalled the mounts and brackets. I painted and marked each of the 4 main subframe bolts before removal so I could ensure I was aligning everything correctly upon reinstallation of the frame.
I took BlazeViper's advice and chamfered the edges where the subframe and front crash bars meet. The chamfering made connection of those parts easier and I was able to lift the front half of the frame at an angle onto the crash bars while the back was supported by the ground and attach the lower bolts loosely so I could use that as a pivot point to tilt the rest of the subframe up and into place. Once I had all 4 of the main bolts in and snug (not tight) I used a small sledge hammer to get the frame in exactly the right position before tightening (wear ear protection it is loud AF). This process worked like a charm and required no assistance.
I also replaced the transmission mounts (rear engine mount) and did a quick DIY in another thread on that process. Here is a link:
Before removal, I lightly spray painted each of the 4 main bolts and then marked a line and numbered each bolt so I could line the frame up in its original position when reinstalling Everything is out of the way and the new mounts are in. I completely removed the steering rack. Be sure to mark the shaft before disconnecting so it can be installed in the same position. A look at the subframe. I left the black brackets attached that connect to the floor frame.
I completed installation of the front engine mounts today and reinstalled the subframe. Because I am also replacing all of my control arms and tie rods I ended up removing the steering rack and subframe completely. Although it is more upfront work, this gave me a mostly wide open shot at each of the mounts and it was easy to get the brackets holding the mounts off without any conflicts. I was also able to get good torque on all of the bolts when I reinstalled the mounts and brackets. I painted and marked each of the 4 main subframe bolts before removal so I could ensure I was aligning everything correctly upon reinstallation of the frame.
I took BlazeViper's advice and chamfered the edges where the subframe and front crash bars meet. The chamfering made connection of those parts easier and I was able to lift the front half of the frame at an angle onto the crash bars while the back was supported by the ground and attach the lower bolts loosely so I could use that as a pivot point to tilt the rest of the subframe up and into place. Once I had all 4 of the main bolts in and snug (not tight) I used a small sledge hammer to get the frame in exactly the right position before tightening (wear ear protection it is loud AF). This process worked like a charm and required no assistance.
I also replaced the transmission mounts (rear engine mount) and did a quick DIY in another thread on that process. Here is a link:
Before removal, I lightly spray painted each of the 4 main bolts and then marked a line and numbered each bolt so I could line the frame up in its original position when reinstalling
Everything is out of the way and the new mounts are in.
I completely removed the steering rack. Be sure to mark the shaft before disconnecting so it can be installed in the same position.
A look at the subframe. I left the black brackets attached that connect to the floor frame.
Nice work brother, I'm glad to see you took the proactive stance and also replaced the rear motor mount. Might as well since it's all apart now and will most likely be the last time this extensive tear down will be necessary. Additionally, good to know that someone else is as particular as I am, and prefers to match the bolts to the threads from which they were removed. <BFG>
Just curious, is that wrench between the jack pad and 2x6 there for the angle or just a convenient resting space to access it? Either way, it looks magical. LOL
I knew you would see that wrench brother..haha. It does look like it is floating in that picture. It is there acting as a shim between the wood and the jack due to the angle of the oil pan with the car being jacked up at an angle as well. Good catch.
With the mounts completed, I have now started the control arms project and have the disassembly done. Similar to my philosophy on the mounts project I decided to take everything out in order to be able to have better access when installing new components and torqueing bolts etc. The only thing I have not figured out yet is how to get the ball joint that lower arm #2 attaches to off of the knuckle. I tried the ball joint press kit that I rented from Autozone and the BJ didn't even budge a mm (yes I removed the c clip retainer first). I may have to give in and take the knuckles to a shop to have the old BJs pressed out and the new Febest pressed in. Everything else went according to plan and now I sit and wait for my LS460 Core Refresh Kit to come in from FIGS. Gutted Empty driver side wheel well Steering rack, stabilizer bar, old engine mounts and front suspension components from the passenger side. This is the ball joint I have not yet had success removing from the knuckle. The BJ press kits I rented from Autozone.
With the mounts completed, I have now started the control arms project and have the disassembly done. Similar to my philosophy on the mounts project I decided to take everything out in order to be able to have better access when installing new components and torqueing bolts etc. The only thing I have not figured out yet is how to get the ball joint that lower arm #2 attaches to off of the knuckle. I tried the ball joint press kit that I rented from Autozone and the BJ didn't even budge a mm (yes I removed the c clip retainer first). I may have to give in and take the knuckles to a shop to have the old BJs pressed out and the new Febest pressed in. Everything else went according to plan and now I sit and wait for my LS460 Core Refresh Kit to come in from FIGS. Gutted Empty driver side wheel well Steering rack, stabilizer bar, old engine mounts and front suspension components from the passenger side. This is the ball joint I have not yet had success removing from the knuckle. The BJ press kits I rented from Autozone.
I know what you mean, You have a nice big garage so just buy the harbor freight 20 ton press. It will come right out. That autozone kit did not have a deep enough cup to press the BJ back in though.
01-27-21, 08:31 PM
