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Eelliiss good job replacing the mounts. That was nice of your neighbor to help. Did the new mounts cure your vibrations?
Hi Mike. I'm in Texas, and temps are already 90 degrees by 9am. It does feel more solid with less vibes, but I don't know if it's a product of the outside temps or the motor mounts. Perhaps a combo of both. I noticed that there is a bit of leaking from the direct injector pumps on the valve covers, so perhaps replacing those will help, too. I think I read somewhere on here that someone started off with that first for their interior vibes. Either way, I need to replace those, too.
Hi, Mike and all. Do you know the torque spec for the six bolts on the engine mount bracket? I know that for LS430, it is 27 lbf but couldn't find it for LS460. Below, I borrowed a clip from one of your photos as an illustration.
Thanks in advance.
Hi, Mike and all. Do you know the torque spec for the six bolts on the engine mount bracket? I know that for LS430, it is 27 lbf but couldn't find it for LS460. Below, I borrowed a clip from one of your photos as an illustration.
Thanks in advance.
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From the 2007 repair manual, looks like it's 26lbf for all six on both sides. Hope this helps....
A Different Approach to Replacing Engine Mounts (without dropping the subframe)
A Different Approach to Replacing Engine Mounts (without dropping the subframe)
Lately, when I moved from P to D on my 2008 LS460 2WD (121K miles), the car jerks forward and the front of the car raises before I release the brake and begin to drive. This is particularly so in the morning when the car has been parked for more than 8 hours overnight. Reading the threads here and elsewhere, I concluded that my engine mounts are bad. So, I sourced the two front engine mounts, two suspension stabilizer bar bushings, and the transmission mount from Bell Lexus (great price and free shipping). Since I don’t need to replace control arms (replaced them six months ago), I decided to try to minimize the parts that I have to remove by removing and installing the engine mounts directly from behind the rear corners of the subframe. Previously, when I replaced the starter, I was able to remove the passenger (RH) side engine mount this way. Therefore, I knew that this was doable on the passenger (RH) side.
The driver (LH) side was blocked by the steering sliding yoke shaft and the passenger side was blocked (sort of) by the oil dipstick assembly. Please see the photos below for the views of the two engine mount areas from behind the rear corners of the subframe. Upon checking LS460 shop manual (I dug it up from the hard drive of my old dusty WinXP), I learned that the steering sliding yoke shaft can be disconnected with minimum effort (removal and install instruction diagrams below). I also know from my previous experience that the oil dipstick can be easily removed (2 10mm screws).
Thus, by disconnecting the steering sliding yoke shaft and removing the oil dipstick assembly, I gained access to the engine mount brackets and engine mounts and was able to remove them and install the new ones with removing minimum number of parts. The space was tight, but doable. Detailed steps and torque specs are below.
However, after I replaced the engine mounts, my car still jerks when I shift from P to D, and the front end still raises before I release the brake. Again, this is especially obvious when the car was parked overnight. Do any of you have any suggestions and recommendations for curing this problem? My last transmission fluid change was about 20K miles ago in March 2019 (I did 4 cycles of drain and fill and replaced transmission fluid filter/stranger), and my transmission shifts butter smooth once I begin to drive. I’ll replace the transmission mount soon and see if that will help. By the way, my old engine mounts look and feel solid in good working condition (photos below). It looks that I just replaced two perfectly working engine mounts. It is, well, preventative maintenance.
Steps to Replace Engine Mounts without Removing Subframe
1. Jack up the front end of the car and support the car with jack stands
2. Remove the two front wheels/tires
3. Remove the 3 underneath protection covers (two metal and one plastic)
4. Remove the 2 bolts that secures the front stabilizer bar from the end links (both sides0
5. Remove the stabilizer bar by unbolting the 4 bolts
6. Remove the two front suspension members that connect to the subframe (4 bolts each)
7. Remove the two bolts that hold the oil dipstick assembly on the passenger side and remove it (gently wiggle it out)
8. Disconnect the steering sliding yoke shaft on the driver side (instruction diagram below). Note: you don't need to remove it. Just disconnect it at Point B in the diagram below and loosen Point A for sliding it upwards.
9. Now you have the unblocked access to the engine mount brackets and engine mounts
10. Work on the passenger side first because it is relatively easier
11. Loosen the top nut of engine mount (17mm). The space is tight. I used a shallow 6-point socket and low profile ratchet. After it is loose, unscrew it with hand.
12. Loosen the bottom nut of the engine mount (also 17mm)
13. Place a wood board underneath the oil pan and jack the engine up by approximately 2.5 inches
14. Remove the six 14mm bolts on the engine mount bracket (see photos posted by Miket100, et al, in this thread)
15. Slide out the engine mount bracket
16. Slide out the old engine mount on the passenger side
17. Install the new engine mount (ensure that the direction is correct. You may check the little hole at the bottom of subframe for correct alignment).
18. Slide in the engine mount bracket and torque the 6 bolts to specification (see specs below)
19. On the driver side, the procedure is the same except you need to gently push the steering sliding yoke shaft towards the side to gain more room
20. Remove the engine mount bracket on the driver side by using the same procedure above
21. Remove the old engine mount and install the new one per the procedure above
22. Install the engine mount bracket on the driver side per the procedure above. Because of the limited space, I was only able to torque 5 of the 6 bolts to factory specification. I applied estimated torque to the upper most bolt by a flex racket.
23. Check all the work and make sure that the engine mounts are aligned with their respective positions (check through the little holes on the subframe).
24. When all is OK, slowly lower the jack that supports the engine oil pan.
25. Tighten the top nuts of the engine mounts on each side to specification (see below).
26. Tighten the bottom nuts of the engine mounts on each side
27. Install the two front suspension members (connected to the subframe) by 4 bolts per factory specs
28. Install the stabilization bar per factory torque specs
29. Tighten the two stabilization bar bolts to the end links by factor torque specs
30. Install the underneath covers
31. Install wheels/tires
32. Remove jacks and jack stands
33. The job of replacing two engine mounts is completed.
Toque Specifications
6 bolts of the engine mount bracket: 26 lbf (credit to lwphat66)
Top nut of the engine mount: 26 lbf (the space is too narrow to use a toque racket)
Bottom nut of the engine mount: 52 lbf
4 bolts of the suspension member: 37 lbf
4 bolts for fastening the stabilizer to the suspension member: 36 lbf
Stabilizer bar to end link nut: 62 lbf
See the instructional diagrams below for the torques for steering sliding yoke shaft screws
Photos
Rear view of the driver side engine mount (blocked by the steering sliding yoke shaft)
Rear view of driver side engine mount
Rear view of the passenger side engine mount (blocked by the oil dipstick assembly)
Rear view of driver side after the engine mount bracket and engine mounts are removed
Instruction diagrams with torque specifications for disconnecting and reconnecting the steering sliding yoke shaft
Disconnecting (don't need to remove it. Just disconnect it at Point B)
Installation
My old engine mounts, which look and feel still in good working order:
A Different Approach to Replacing Engine Mounts (without dropping the subframe)
However, after I replaced the engine mounts, my car still jerks when I shift from P to D, and the front end still raises before I release the brake. Again, this is especially obvious when the car was parked overnight. Do any of you have any suggestions and recommendations for curing this problem? My last transmission fluid change was about 20K miles ago in March 2019 (I did 4 cycles of drain and fill and replaced transmission fluid filter/stranger), and my transmission shifts butter smooth once I begin to drive. I’ll replace the transmission mount soon and see if that will help. By the way, my old engine mounts look and feel solid in good working condition (photos below). It looks that I just replaced two perfectly working engine mounts. It is, well, preventative maintenance.
I have an '07 Lwb with about 65k miles. Have not changed spark plugs yet or drain/fill trans oil. The next time I drive my car, Ill try your steps to see what results. I have my parking brake set to auto and normally park in my driveway front end first. So my first shift is from P to R, and I usually let the car warm up a minute or more and shift into R once the RPMs are at least below 1k. Car shifts fine with no awkwardness or sudden lurches/thumps. Next first drive of the day, I will shift from P to D with the parking brake engaged to see how the car reacts and let you know my findings.
Flexible coupling? differential? Half shafts? I don't think it'd be the transmission since 1st gear is pure torque converter but I'm no expert. I have an old Toyota that does this sometimes.
Do you have any problems shifting between the gears once the car is moving?
No problem when the car starts to move. My transmission is very smooth and responsive. It's just when I shift from P to D, the car's front rises and jerks forward.
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I rebuilt my brake calipers and cleaned and lubricated all the brake parts 8 months ago. Because of working at home, I only drove about 1,200 miles since the brake service. My brakes seem to be working fine.
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Nice writeup yyymmm31. I'm still amazed a few of you guys have managed to replace the left mount without dropping the subframe. Was the steering shaft difficult to get lined back up? If everything lined up in the same splines I bet you can forgo the alignment too, very cool.
In my 460 I also had a jerk when already in drive and preparing to move forward. Both times were before I replaced all my tranny fluid and filter. The jerk forward was quite intense, I actually thought we had been rear ended. Since replacing the fluid and filter I've had no issues, approx 15k miles ago. I suspect you might be a little low on fluid. Once your warmed up perhaps the fluid has expanded. Seeing as you replaced your fluid and filter I doubt it needs to be done again. It seems your issue is a bit different if it is happening as you shift into drive. I could shift into drive without any issues.
I few weeks ago I read on the ( i think) sc430 forum about the tranny memory being cleared after a fluid change to relearn pressures. Perhaps if our cars have something similar you could try that. I'd still double check the fluid level first.
Nice writeup yyymmm31. I'm still amazed a few of you guys have managed to replace the left mount without dropping the subframe. Was the steering shaft difficult to get lined back up? If everything lined up in the same splines I bet you can forgo the alignment too, very cool.
In my 460 I also had a jerk when already in drive and preparing to move forward. Both times were before I replaced all my tranny fluid and filter. The jerk forward was quite intense, I actually thought we had been rear ended. Since replacing the fluid and filter I've had no issues, approx 15k miles ago. I suspect you might be a little low on fluid. Once your warmed up perhaps the fluid has expanded. Seeing as you replaced your fluid and filter I doubt it needs to be done again. It seems your issue is a bit different if it is happening as you shift into drive. I could shift into drive without any issues.
I few weeks ago I read on the ( i think) sc430 forum about the tranny memory being cleared after a fluid change to relearn pressures. Perhaps if our cars have something similar you could try that. I'd still double check the fluid level first.
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Hello, Mike. Thank you for opening this thread and inspiring us to replace engine mounts without taking the engine off as Lexus shop manual instructs. Disconnecting the steering slide yoke shaft was very easy. I marked the alignments (the red lines in my photos) before disconnecting it but I actually didn't have to use the markings for alignment because I didn't remove the steering slide yoke shaft. There were only two 10mm bolts on the steering slide yoke shaft. I removed the bottom bolt (Point B in the diagram above) and only loosened the top bolt (Point A). I slid the yoke upwards to disconnect it at the universal joint point. After I replaced the driver side engine mount, I simply slid the steering yoke back into the shaft. Because I didn't remove the steering slide yoke assembly, the alignment didn't change and I didn't need to use the markings for alignment.
Thank you for the suggestion that low transmission fluid could cause the my car to jerk forward when moving from P to D. It makes sense, because in the morning, as you said, the transmission fluid is cool and the transmission level is low. As I drive, the transmission fluid expands from higher temperature and the transmission fluid level rises. Therefore, the jerking is not obvious any more. I still have 12 bottles of Toyota WS transmission fluid from my last transmission fluid replacement. I will do a drain and fill. I cleared my transmission memory with Techstream when I replaced my transmission fluid last time and can do it again after I drain and fill the transmission this time. Additionally, I have the new transmission mount (AKA rear engine mount) and I will install it this weekend to see if that helps. Maybe my rear engine mount is worn and it allows the transmission to dip briefly, which causes the front of the engine to rise/jerk up.
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06-15-21, 10:30 AM
