DIY LS460 engine mounts and control arm bushings replacement
#106
Instructor
The following users liked this post:
yyymmm31 (08-28-21)
#107
Pole Position
what ball joints did you go with?
Finally, after 45 days or so of downtime, the LS460 is back together and on the road. I am bringing it in tomorrow morning for an alignment and steering position sensor reset and I should be good to go for some time. I did drive the car for a few miles after getting it back together and it runs and drives great Started up on first try) Suspension is solid and tight and the steering is much more solid and responsive. Also, it idles silky smooth with the new mounts and spark plugs. I am very happy with how everything turned out. Here is a quick list of everything I completed during the 45 days, much of the time was spent waiting for parts, but the extra time also allowed me to work at my own pace and enjoy the job. Some of the bolt torque specs I used are down below after the pictures for future reference:
Passenger side
Driver side
Driver side
Torque Specs (ft lbs):
- Both sides fuel pump gaskets and rings
- Both sides valve cover gaskets
- New spark plugs and spark plug seals
- New valve cover ventilation hoses
- Cleaned throttle body and MAFs
- Engine mounts
- Transmission mount
- Sway bar bushings
- Sway bar end links
- Inner and outer tie rods
- New ball joints on steering knuckles
- OEM lower arms #2
- Aftermarket lower arms #1
- Aftermarket upper arms with bushings replaced with SuperPro
Passenger side
Driver side
Driver side
Torque Specs (ft lbs):
- Brake caliper to knuckle 100
- Upper control arms mounting brackets 24
- Upper control arms 37 (remember to tighten and torque at ride height (not necessary with SuperPro bushings))
- Upper arms BJ to knuckle 44
- Front lower arm BJ to knuckle 107
- Front lower arm to suspension crossmember assembly 107 (remember to tighten and torque at ride height)
- Rear lower arm to knuckle BJ 107
- Rear lower arm to suspension crossmember assembly 107 (remember to tighten and torque at ride height)
- Strut to rear lower arm 80
- Strut mount bolts 49
- Sway bar links to rear lower arms and to sway bar 62
- Tie rod end to knuckle 44
- Steering rack bolts 52
- Suspension crossmember assembly to frame 150
- Engine mounts to suspension crossmember assembly 52
- Wheel lugs 105
#108
Intermediate
I went with the Febest 0120-USF40F ball joints for the front steering knuckle. They seem OK so far, but before install and upon inspection of the parts it was pretty clear that the quality is not to the level of the OEM that came already pressed into the knuckle from the factory. I do not remember seeing any other viable options at the time I was shopping for parts.
#109
Pole Position
I went with the Febest 0120-USF40F ball joints for the front steering knuckle. They seem OK so far, but before install and upon inspection of the parts it was pretty clear that the quality is not to the level of the OEM that came already pressed into the knuckle from the factory. I do not remember seeing any other viable options at the time I was shopping for parts.
#110
Intermediate
I tried your method twice and got the same outcome. Shift from P to D in the morning with the parking brake engaged manually was smooth, without lurching, and pretty much hardly anything could be felt. As miket000 alluded to, trans fluid might need topping off, and if this does not cure it, perhaps a faulty solenoid valve could be the culprit.
Hi, lwphat66. Thank you for taking the time to test and validate it. Since I have a new rear engine/transmission mount at hand, I replaced the rear engine mount this morning as an attempt to fix it. What a pleasant surprise! With the new transmission mount, the lurching went away and problem is solved. No more lurching from P to D or to R.
Have a good day.
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lwphat66 (08-28-21)
#111
Instructor
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Hi, lwphat66. Thank you for taking the time to test and validate it. Since I have a new rear engine/transmission mount at hand, I replaced the rear engine mount this morning as an attempt to fix it. What a pleasant surprise! With the new transmission mount, the lurching went away and problem is solved. No more lurching from P to D or to R.
Have a good day.
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Hi, lwphat66. Thank you for taking the time to test and validate it. Since I have a new rear engine/transmission mount at hand, I replaced the rear engine mount this morning as an attempt to fix it. What a pleasant surprise! With the new transmission mount, the lurching went away and problem is solved. No more lurching from P to D or to R.
Have a good day.
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Really appreciate all your write-ups and documentation of your various repairs, as I will definitely be referencing them when it comes time for me to perform the same. Gotta keep these first versions of the 4th Gen going strong. Thanks again, and have a great weekend brother!
The following 2 users liked this post by lwphat66:
Mythicalni (11-07-21),
yyymmm31 (08-28-21)
#112
Intermediate
Update - Fixed Car Jerks When Move from P to D or R
This is an update to my posting "A Different Approach to Replacing Engine Mounts (without dropping the subframe)" above. As I stated above, my primary goal for replacing the engine mounts was to cure the annoying problem of car jerking forward when I moved from P to D (or R). After replacing the two front engine mounts, the problem was not solved. Several of you, including miket000, lwphat66, Anfanger and BlazeViper, offered suggestions and assistance to fix the problem. Thank you all. After reading your suggestions, I decided to try two things as solutions, (1) replace the rear engine/transmission mount and (2) drain and fill transmission fluid and replace transmission fluid filter/strainer. Since I already have the new rear engine mount (trans mount) at hand, I decided to replace the rear engine mount as the first attempted solution, and I did it this morning. After I started the car and shifted from P to D, the car didn't jerk or surge forward. I tried several times moving from P or D or to R, the car didn't jerk at all. The problem was solved!
I used the posting by AZGS4 "DIY Transmission Mount AKA Rear Engine Mount - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion" as the visual reference. Additionally, I used Lexus shop manual for torque information. I am sharing the torque specifications below for anyone who in the future may need them to replace their rear engine mount (for 2WD ). A particular note to some of you who don't use a torque wrench to do the job, the torques for the rear engine mount are low and don't over tighten the rear engine mount and its bracket bolts.
Remove the transmission mount LS460 2WD
Install rear engine mount - torque 22 lbf
Note the low torques for the rear engine mount bracket
I used the posting by AZGS4 "DIY Transmission Mount AKA Rear Engine Mount - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion" as the visual reference. Additionally, I used Lexus shop manual for torque information. I am sharing the torque specifications below for anyone who in the future may need them to replace their rear engine mount (for 2WD ). A particular note to some of you who don't use a torque wrench to do the job, the torques for the rear engine mount are low and don't over tighten the rear engine mount and its bracket bolts.
Remove the transmission mount LS460 2WD
Install rear engine mount - torque 22 lbf
Note the low torques for the rear engine mount bracket
Last edited by yyymmm31; 08-28-21 at 03:27 PM. Reason: corrected typos
#114
Intermediate
Update: I have put about 5,000 miles on my new control arms since installing them in February. So far the poly bushings on the front upper arms are holding up well with no deformities and the car is driving great. Here are a few pictures of the upper bushings for reference.
Driver side rearward
Driver side forward
Passenger side rearward
Passenger side forward
Driver side rearward
Driver side forward
Passenger side rearward
Passenger side forward
#115
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the update AZGS4. Good to hear they are working well for you. What kind of grease did you put on them? I'd like to tighten up the steering a bit on my 600 by installing poly bushings but not at the expense of squeaking. Perhaps smothering some poly's with anti seize might do the trick.
#116
Intermediate
I just used the grease that came with the bushings. I am not sure what it is actually, but I get no squeaking yet from the bushings and they do tighten up the steering.
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miket000 (10-13-21)
#117
Instructor
Thanks for the update AZGS4. Good to hear they are working well for you. What kind of grease did you put on them? I'd like to tighten up the steering a bit on my 600 by installing poly bushings but not at the expense of squeaking. Perhaps smothering some poly's with anti seize might do the trick.
#118
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thank you, lwphat66. You bring up a good point. I really like the soft ride.
I've been looking around on ebay for some used rear upper control arm mount brackets. If I can find them I'd like to purchase a new set of rear upper control arms and push the new bushings out, like azgs4 did. I'd mount them to a spare bracket with the poly bushings installed.
If I don't like them It'll be quicker to swap my old ones back in. I only plan on trying the poly bushings on the rear upper arms. The forwards can stay stock... for now.
I've been looking around on ebay for some used rear upper control arm mount brackets. If I can find them I'd like to purchase a new set of rear upper control arms and push the new bushings out, like azgs4 did. I'd mount them to a spare bracket with the poly bushings installed.
If I don't like them It'll be quicker to swap my old ones back in. I only plan on trying the poly bushings on the rear upper arms. The forwards can stay stock... for now.
#119
Pole Position
Thank you, lwphat66. You bring up a good point. I really like the soft ride.
I've been looking around on ebay for some used rear upper control arm mount brackets. If I can find them I'd like to purchase a new set of rear upper control arms and push the new bushings out, like azgs4 did. I'd mount them to a spare bracket with the poly bushings installed.
If I don't like them It'll be quicker to swap my old ones back in. I only plan on trying the poly bushings on the rear upper arms. The forwards can stay stock... for now.
I've been looking around on ebay for some used rear upper control arm mount brackets. If I can find them I'd like to purchase a new set of rear upper control arms and push the new bushings out, like azgs4 did. I'd mount them to a spare bracket with the poly bushings installed.
If I don't like them It'll be quicker to swap my old ones back in. I only plan on trying the poly bushings on the rear upper arms. The forwards can stay stock... for now.
#120
Instructor
Thread Starter
Sorry for the confusion. I worded that poorly. I was talking about the front of the car. I'm not aware of any replacement bushings that are available for the back of the car.