Bhowell

2009 LS 460
Bought this car out of California. Originally equipped with air ride which I had converted to shocks/struts. Replace struts and control arms and still have a rattle. No diagnosis with the mechanics around here? Any help?

Anfanger

Sway bar bushings, engine mounts, transmission mounts...

Joe50

I've been chasing a rattle on my 2008 LS460L that I really only notice at slow speeds. I believe that I've narrowed it down to be rattling from inside the catalytic converters. I've noticed that if I lock the car in first gear (raise engine rpms and therefore exhaust pressure) and then go over slow speed bumps where I would typically notice the rattle, it appears to stop the rattle.

LILEVO

iTrader: (1)

Check the manifold heat shields as well, if you can wiggle them by hand it may be it. I'm dealing with the same issue on air suspension, replaced everything and there is a "double clunk" only at lower speeds in certain situations. Motor mounts were replaced, trans mount is good, sway bar bushings are good. I'm narrowing things down with a ChassisEar, but still haven't found it.

sdls

bad air shock maybe? I had that hollow rattle over minor bumps and it made my car sound like a junkyard Pontiac. It went away after I switched to coil over suspension.

LILEVO

iTrader: (1)

No, everything is brand new. All new shocks, all new 8 control arms. Noise is still there. Changing the tires next, since I didn't realize the car had run flats. Sometimes those provide an extra harsh ride.

Anfanger

Check the engine mounts. If one of the mounts is blows, it would cause some unpleasant sounds.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

Alot of times it's the brake pads that are loose and need shims

Also if you used the cheap struts from ebay , unity , strutmaster, shockmaster , apparently they come pre equipped with rattle technology

Thegamemhb

This was so hilarious "pre equipped with rattle tecnology"

sdls

it’s true. So true. Duralo brand quick struts are rebadged Unity parts; and they clunk and have a harsh ride.

norviewguy

I have to go with steering rack. I have the same issue. Mine is bad on one side but not the other. When I was replacing all my arms, I took a rubber mallet and tapped on the steering stub (or whatever you call it) on both sides WITH THE TIERODS REMOVED. I heard a clear difference. I’ve been thinking about grabbing a used rack off eBay for $600 and replacing it myself but I have a feeling I’ll need some techstream stuff.

Excuse any typos
send from mobile.

LILEVO

iTrader: (1)

Figured out my problem. I noticed I could replicate the clunking by yanking the wheel (really hard and fast) left to right while driving. I thought it had to be the steering rack, but threw chassisear on the tie rod ends and there was no noise.

It was the sway bar bushings that hold the sway bar to the chassis. Everything was solid prying on it. I raised the front wheels off the ground and it was still solid in there until you pulled the bar left to right. There was lateral slop in the bushings. I wrapped the bar with a few winds of duct tape, put the old bushings back in and rattle/clunking was gone. Have new ones on order.