Just to be clear, this will work for my 2007 ls460, base model?

 

That is correct. I just finished this job before Christmas using exactly these numbers for the OEM control arms I bought and put on my 2007 LS460 Base model. Everything is tight now in my front end and smooth on the bumps. The control arms for the later LS460s are an exact fit on my 2007.
I bought all but 1 of the 8 control arms, and both steering knuckles from Impex Japan.

 

Excellent. Thank you so much. I'm curious if you have input/experience on whether I should strictly go OEM or aftermarket parts give a rougher ride?

 

There has been much discussion on this topic. I bought some aftermarket ball joints from CARiD and compared them to an OEM one I bought. There was enough of a difference in look and feel and movement in my hand that I decided to go all OEM. My original compromise was going to be OEM lower control arms and aftermarket uppers.
I just felt that the suspension was an important part of what I like about the car, and I didn't want to do the job twice in the next 100k miles.
Some people seem completely happy with the aftermarket ones. Although, I can't say I remember hearing anyone who had feedback over 50k miles on them.

 

Thank you. That makes sense!

 

I was wondering if something could be cleared up, "Lexus LS460 RWD CAN upgrade to the revised 2012-2017 control arms." By 2012 are we talking about the 2012 model year LS 460? Or are we referring to the 2013 model year LS having been produced in 2012? I'm just wondering if I purchase a 2012 model year LS, if I'll have the same control arms as the refreshed 2013 model year LS.

 

Unlikely, you will get '10-'12 ones.

 

As A personal mechanic not by trade I can tell you what I believe was the problem all along.
First I own a 2011 LS460 and love the car. 108000 miles recently purchased last month.
The part that was added is a spacer to keep the control arm from fore and aft movement.
Some are calling it a washer but its actually a spacer. See the control arm can and should only move up and down. With that bad design it allowed the arm to move forward each time you hit the brakes or cornered and possibly even acceleration. Its not supposed to work that way. The arm and bushing must be secured to the mounting bracket on both sides to function properly. With that void on one side is what created the problem. I cant believe it took Lexus engineers so long to realize their mistake and fix it.
With that control arm moving this way also contributes to upper bushing wear as it transfers some of that forward movement upwards too. So it basically is wearing the whole front end out by unnecessary movement.
I'm just glad there is a fix for it from the newer models and do hope that my explanation helps people understand what was really going on with the premature wear issues. I don't think that the bushings themselves were ever the problem as much as that void in the control arm mounting was more the culprit.
Sorry for the lengthy first posting but felt the need to explain this issue in more detail. I look forward to being a member here and hope to help out as I can with my experiences and knowledge from working on cars since the 70's.

 

Please, provide pictures or never happened. I never heard about such things.

 

It's the same thing I mentioned in my thread when I called it a limiter, in theory the front arm is supposed to take all the braking load and caster offset rearward impacts but since it's not directly inline with the axis of forces the main arm ends up taking some force. That piece they added is to prevent deflection past the designed limit

 

OK, thank you. But are there any pictures?

 

A thread about the old and new style arm end dimensions would be interesting as a diagnostic tool. It would help weed out aftermarket arms that don't "measure up". I suppose the bracket it bolts to would also be an issue if it bends out of spec.
I also agree with the practice of replacing all arms at the same time. It makes sense that all would be compromised to some degree. Makes me wonder about aftermarket arms that fail early. It could be that the unchanged arms made the new arm fail prematurely.

 

Yep, as I have said before due to how a multi link works you need to replace all of them at once with the same brand arms or the older/weaker ones will receive even more strain and fail even faster.

Dimensions/durometer across 6 brands I bought are all the same, there is no difference buying Lexus arms or not as long as you pick a brand with good ball joints. The 13+ version with the limiter on the lower arm is best bought from Lexus

 

Looks like to me the awd 13+ version lower arm is different again, no limiter on mine. Also not aluminum and shock mount is different...my production date is 12/12 which is 4 months into the 13 model year in Canada. I can't see any reason to replace these arms if ball joints and bushings are available.

 

You are AWD, there is no real update to yours and the arm is steel not alum like the RWD cars.