Anfanger

Having over $150k miles, I decided to start gradually replacing transmission fluid in my car. But before replacing the fluid, I want to replace the strainer. Things that I have done for far:

- Removed all plastic shields starting at the front crossmember.
- Removed 2 support brackets supporting the transmission and the exhaust.


- Dropped the exhaust. It was easier than I thought as the bolts either sheer off or come out. The problem is that the nuts are welded to rear section of the exhaust and need to be cut off. It requires removal of the remaining sections of the exhaust.
- I disconnected only one of the oxygen sensors (Bank 1, sensor 2) and left other one alone (Bank 2, sensor 2). Because it most likely will break during removal. I left the exhaust in the position where there is no stress on the sensor wire harness.
- Removed the transmission pan. Broke one of the bolts, it seemed to be overtighten when the car was assembled at the factory. I failed to extract it, I will have to drill it out and replace with a nut a bolt. I ordered a new full set from the local Lexus. I never seen pan bolts having some much rust damage.
- Removed the strainer and the o-ring.
- Removed both mufflers and cut off welded nuts. I used a dull end hook to disconnect the rubber mounts. It made the work much easier and faster.



- Remove the old gasket material and some rust


I installed:
- The strainer and the o-ring. The torque for strainer bolts is 11 Nm.


- I installed temporary the transmission pan for protection purposes.

- Reinstalled both mufflers
- Installed the pan. Pan bolts torque is 7.4 Nm. You can in the picture the replacement bolt with a nut. I got a full set of new bolts.




- Installed exhaust gaskets and applied proper torque. Exhaust flange bolts torque is 38 Nm.



- Installed the transmission support support. Torque for the bolts is 30 Nm and the nuts is 38 Nm. I ended up installing it after the exhaust which is incorrect way to do it. You need to install the transmission support before the exhaust otherwise you will end in the same "sea of pain" as I did.
- I have replaced all 4 clamps on the exhaust due failure of installed ones
- I had replaced the ground wire, the one I had just fell apart when started working around the exhaust.
- Added transmission fluid and set proper level at 95F.

Part name: Part # (required #)
Strainer: 35330-50030 (1)
O-ring: 90301-31014 (1)
Gasket: 35168-50010 (1)
Exhaust gasket front: 90917-06078 (2)
Exhaust gasket rear: 90917-06057 (2)
Exhaust clamp #1: 90461-12405 (2)
Exhaust clamp #2: 90080-46121 (2)
Exhaust flange bolts: 90105-10558 (8)
Exhaust nut: 90179-10128 (8)
Transmission pan bolts: 90119-A0090 (9)
Ground wire #2: 82286-50010 (1)

Tec80

Awesome. If this is the broken bolt, you should be able to extract it without drilling. First, use PB Blaster, WD40, or Kroil to spray the end of the bolt on the top of the trans pan flange (pan bolt holes are thru holes so you can access the tip of the bolt from the top) and let it soak for a few hours. Then use a small pair of vice grips to grab the bolt fragment - adjust them so it almost takes another pair of vice grips to squeeze them shut, and leave 1-2mm of room between the vice grips and pan flange so the rotation doesn't scratch the pan flange. It should come right out.


Even if the bolt breaks off flush with the pan flange, you could MIG a weld nugget onto the bolt, then use vice grips to rotate it out. GM LS head exhaust manifold bolts are routinely repaired this way - Skip to 5:00 of this video:

Anfanger

Thank you for the advice! I tried vice grips and 2 different sets of bolt extractors. The bolt is not moving. The MIG idea is great but I don't have access to a welder right now. And I am on a strict time line.

BiGEZ

iTrader: (24)

Good job, I will be following this service and the outcome as I am planning to do the same on my recently acquired 2011 LS460 AWD with 170K miles.
I hope you play it safe, I was worried when I did not see any jack stands or ramps supporting the car other than the one jack holding up the transmission.
I recently had to replaced the transmission seal on my 01 GS300 with 187K miles due to a slight leak. I replaced the strainer as well and resealed the pan with the required orange Toyota FIPG. Refilled with Toyota Type IV fluids and she drives and shifts perfectly. Keep in mind I have been doing a drain and fill every 60K miles.
I hope you get that broken bolt out. Ii is nice to see it uses a gasket instead of the FIPG, which is a pain to remove.
Do you plan to replace the center diff. fluids too?

Anfanger

The car is supported by 2 stand jacks in the front.



I have replaced all fluids already but the transmission fluid.

sdls

Thanks for the thread. This confirms that I would be in for a world of suck if I tried to change the trans filter.
Im calling it good on my car with 15 quarts of fluid exchanges.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

I broke the front most left bolt on the pan when changing the filter. I tried unsuccessfully to drill it out but my tools were inadequate. I used some fipg in the area and have not had any problems since.

Anfanger

I was not able to extract it. However, I drilled it out and replaced with Grade 8.8 bolt and nut. I used FIPG around the perimeter to temporary fix the gasket during the installation and in case if I unintentionally scratched the surface.

I am going to set a proper level tomorrow and installed plastic shields.

Anfanger

I finished yesterday and had a short test drive. Everything seems to be working fine and no leaks. I will monitor the transmission to make sure there are no leaks for a week a so. I updated the pictures and included part numbers of parts I used.

I ended up replacing more parts that required just to replace the strainer: exhaust clamps and ground (earth) wire. I also used rear exhaust gasket in front too because the rear gasket are larger with the same internal diameter but more gasket (sealing) material.