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New glass is in, $238 total installed. It's nice to have a clear view. The old window had a lot of chips and of course was cracked in half.
I had 3 quotes. $238, $308, and for fun Safelite $1060. Safelite was willing to do oem glass for $1210. Plus an additional $50 for mobile install. I wonder if they bring doughnuts
Well the rough running engine is back and slightly worse. Same scenario, only does it on the first start of a heat soaked engine after sitting for approximately 1 hour. It will run rough at idle for 5 seconds or so. If I accelerate during those 5 seconds it will also run rough until about 1500rpm. After the initial 5 seconds of rough running it has no issues. I can shut the car off let it sit for a few minutes, starts up and runs fine.
If the engine is cold it starts smooth, I can drive it for hours, no issues.
I changed my oil yesterday and cleaned the throttle body again. Yes I use my digits to hold and manipulate the throttle open. I've had computers decide to close the throttle body on other engines while working on them. I don't trust the electronics. It is far easier to replace the throttle body than regrow my finger should something go wrong.
Anyway while cleaning the throttle plate I noticed the intake plenum has oil in it. I wonder if after sitting awhile oil is accumulating and entering a few cylinders. Anfanger I read your post from a while back in which you also had oil in your intake. I think your pcv had a spring sticking out of it.
1. Was the pcv valve broken?
2. Once removed were you able to actually pour engine oil out of your intake? It's difficult to tell but I think If I stood my intake vertical I could pour a little oil out.
3. How much oil is normal? I was surprised to see it wet.
I also appear to be losing coolant. When I purchased the car the coolant reservoir was low. The coolant reservoir has never gone empty as I've been keeping an eye on it. This year I've added enough coolant to fill the reservoir probably 1.5 times. I used a borescope today in an attempt to check for a valley plate leak. I also went under the car with a mirror. I don't see any wet or dry coolant. I'm guessing it is the start of a valley plate leak and I'm not jamming my borescope in the right place. I sure hope it isn't a head gasket. The exhaust seems normal, no smoke. I'm considering replacing the radiator cap in hopes it might help.
Intake plenum. Oil in the bottom.
Camera didn't pick up the shiny oil sitting in the bottom.
This whitish hose is brittle /hard. (The one attached to the yellow thing) There is also a hose barely visible under the whitish hose that is hard. Anybody replace these before?
You'd think with a 2 foot diameter pan I would catch all of the oil. I had 4 quarts in one, 5 quarts in the other. Plus whatever is on the floor. Over 9 quarts drained after 5000 miles, pretty good. If the pcv valve is leaking it's not much.
Yes, replacing the PCV valve resolved the issue. The valve was completely destroyed, I am glad the spring did not fall in the engine.
And, yes I was able to pour out oil from the intake. In addition, I had a small vacuum leak caught by the ECU. Replacing vacuum hoses took care of that problem.
My understanding, it is OK to have the manifold "wet" with oil. But no oil dripping should occur.
If you have a blown head gasket, a quick look with a fiber camera in spark plug holes, should tell you should be able to confirm it. The cylinder with the issue will be clean from coolant vapors. You also can test the coolant for combustion gases, there is a kit on Amazon. It is very simple to use and works well.
But if the engine was never overheated, I am inclined to blame - the valley plate, the radiator, or the water pump. Valley plate leaks could be hard to detect as some of coolant gets pushed out by airflow, at least, it was in my case. Also, when valley plate leaks become significant enough, you will be able to see dried out coolant on the internal side of the plastic shielding attached under the engine.
Me and Boykie are trying to figure out a similar issue on a car he is trying to fix, initially I thought it was leaky port injector followed by a vacuum leak at the oil separator/pcv. The injector was leaking and the separator was leaking as well but the issue returned and it's till not resolved, I still think there is a vacuum leak somewhere that is screwing with hot starts.
Yes, replacing the PCV valve resolved the issue. The valve was completely destroyed, I am glad the spring did not fall in the engine.
And, yes I was able to pour out oil from the intake. In addition, I had a small vacuum leak caught by the ECU. Replacing vacuum hoses took care of that problem.
My understanding, it is OK to have the manifold "wet" with oil. But no oil dripping should occur.
If you have a blown head gasket, a quick look with a fiber camera in spark plug holes, should tell you should be able to confirm it. The cylinder with the issue will be clean from coolant vapors. You also can test the coolant for combustion gases, there is a kit on Amazon. It is very simple to use and works well.
But if the engine was never overfilled, I am inclined to blame - the valley plate, the radiator, or the water pump. Valley plate leaks could be hard to detect as some of coolant gets pushed out by airflow, at least, it was in my case. Also, when valley plate leaks become significant enough, you will be able to see dried out coolant on the internal side of the plastic shielding attached under the engine.
Thanks. I agree, valley plate is likely the coolant loss issue. I considered buying one of the coolant combustion gas test kits. I hadn't thought of looking in the spark plug holes, that could be helpful. I'd really like to wait until winter to dig into these issues. Hopefully by then something hard fails, but not too hard lol.
Either way I'll plan on doing the pcv valve. That's lucky the spring didn't get ingested. Were the vacuum lines you replaced the brittle lines I had in the picture above?
Me and Boykie are trying to figure out a similar issue on a car he is trying to fix, initially I thought it was leaky port injector followed by a vacuum leak at the oil separator/pcv. The injector was leaking and the separator was leaking as well but the issue returned and it's till not resolved, I still think there is a vacuum leak somewhere that is screwing with hot starts.
Interesting please keep me posted if there are any developments. Something made mine go away for a tank or 2. I'm thinking it was the 4 bottles of fuel injector cleaner. The issues came back at the end of a fuel tank that had no additional cleaners. I added 2 more yesterday.
There isn't much to go off in this video. The issues start around 1300rpm. The hesitation gets less noticeable if I let up on the accelerator. When I push back down it continues.
Right off the bat if I press the accelerator hard I can bypass that rpm range and somewhat avoid the issue.
Interesting please keep me posted if there are any developments. Something made mine go away for a tank or 2. I'm thinking it was the 4 bottles of fuel injector cleaner. The issues came back at the end of a fuel tank that had no additional cleaners. I added 2 more yesterday.
There isn't much to go off in this video. The issues start around 1300rpm. The hesitation gets less noticeable if I let up on the accelerator. When I push back down it continues.
Right off the bat if I press the accelerator hard I can bypass that rpm range and somewhat avoid the issue.
You may have bigger issues.....that looks like the same issue a car I replaced chains on was having but since yours is a hybrid I can't actually say anything since I have never worked on the driveline of one of those.
Did the chain issue car have issues repeatedly during acceleration? What other symptoms did it have?
If I had some codes that would sure help. My friend mentioned newer toyota vehicles have an engine "test mode" within techstream. Apparently in test mode codes can be set more easily for things such as a rough idle that wouldn't otherwise throw a code. I haven't had time to check if that is something that will work on an 08.
Mine will only do it once unless I shut it off for an hour. It can stop and go in traffic all day long with no issues. I don't think it is related to the hybrid system only because the fuel injector / throttle body cleaning seemed to resolve the issue, temporarily. I forgot I also cleaned the maf sensors the time it got better too.
Did the chain issue car have issues repeatedly during acceleration? What other symptoms did it have?
If I had some codes that would sure help. My friend mentioned newer toyota vehicles have an engine "test mode" within techstream. Apparently in test mode codes can be set more easily for things such as a rough idle that wouldn't otherwise throw a code. I haven't had time to check if that is something that will work on an 08.
Mine will only do it once unless I shut it off for an hour. It can stop and go in traffic all day long with no issues. I don't think it is related to the hybrid system only because the fuel injector / throttle body cleaning seemed to resolve the issue, temporarily. I forgot I also cleaned the maf sensors the time it got better too.
In your case it's not likely a chain since it only can be induced once under those conditions, the one I fixed would do this plus having pending codes that never quite set for cam/crank correlation on both banks. However it has the same "area" that is hard to get past unless you floor it and also is just slow to react in general.
You may very well want to start your car in test mode, there is a pedal dance you do for it in most cars but I'm not sure for the LS
While clicking around I discovered under -Current monitor ----> test results ---> misfire There are in fact misfire's stored. After I shut the engine off and did another drive cycle all of them went to zero. I guess this confirms the misfire's are on that initial hot start after sitting an hour.
It seems cylinders 3,4,5,and 6 have the most misfires. Are these all on the same bank?
I'll have to wait an hour to attempt check mode again.
Check mode. The engine started before I found check mode. I lost my 5 second rough start window lol. I did not use check mode to get the misfire data in the pictures below.. The below data was already stored.
Current monitor misfire page 1
misfire Page 2
Why is the ecu not logging misfires? It has only logged 2 occurrences of all cylinder misfires.
I believe, banks split in even- and odd-numbered cylinders. It looks to me that there is a problem with sensors or/and vacuum. I could be wrong as I am not an actual mechanic.
Thanks. Here is a picture to help visualize the misfires. I agree since there are issues on both banks a vacuum line or something they have in common makes sense. Where were the vacuum lines you replaced?
I replaced all vacuum and ventilation lines in the engine bay. The one, that actually was causing the leak due cranking, was 23829A. 23827A was also in poor condition.
Thanks. Here is a picture to help visualize the misfires. I agree since there are issues on both banks a vacuum line or something they have in common makes sense. Where were the vacuum lines you replaced?
Did you check the spark plugs for excess oil? The drawing shows random misfires, oil can drip into some plugs and not others and the foam boots can soak it up possibly interfering with the spark.
07-18-22, 03:36 AM
