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I changed the rear diff and front diff oils today. I took advantage of the slant in the driveway to make the car level. When I pulled the fill port for the rear diff the fluid was filled to the top. It barely dripped out. After draining I refilled it to the same level and let it drip a bit.
The front diff fluid level was lower, it didn't come out the fill port. I'm sure the car wasn't perfectly level so I measured what came out and refilled the same amount. Then I drove around for a mile and flushed it again. When I was driving the car last week I was experiencing a chugging in tight turns. I read the tsb for this but wasn't willing to spend $140 a liter on new fluid. Total cost for 3 drain and fills would have been around $400 lol. The chugging seemed to be gone after my first drain and fill. Like others have confirmed on cl standard gear oil works fine. When I have more time I want to level the car properly and do a third drain and fill.
I made a 90 degree fitting to free up one of my hands. The rear diff magnetic drain plug had a bunch of crud on it. Of course new gaskets were used. In a few months it's going to be too hot to do this on the driveway. I'm enjoying the cool weather while it lasts. It's kinda level.
I cleaned this up a bit. I missed a spot! The small allen bit was cut from another socket. It's the one I made to use in the front diff fill plug. I cut an allen bit to fit in the fill plug for the front diff. I didn't feel like messing with that ground / electrical connector that was in the way. This thing was tight! I had 2 wrenches doubled up. 1.5 ft long to break it free. My 90 degree fill adapter worked great.
This is the before picture of the dirty shield.
I did the front the diff too, it was painful. I ended up removing the plastic cover seen in the pictures and there is another 10mm bolt that needs to be removed. Using the solution you have come up with would make the job easier. Great job!
I'm having trouble clearing the code C1732 for the strut damper. I'm not sure if it's a hardware, software or knowledge issue. I suspect it is an issue with techstream as I'm not able to adjust the damper settings of the other struts. The other 3 don't have any faults. I get an error for each of those when I try, something about conditions being met (conditions are battery voltage over 8.5v and if I remember right no dtc's) The dampers with no faults stay at 9. While the front left is at 17. I removed the damper control from the front left strut and manually turned the end. After turning the car off and back on Techstream still indicates it is at 17 ( as highlighted in the screen shot). I tried multiple times, techstream or the ecu does not appear to be reading it. I may take the control damper out of the front right strut to check if it is reporting changes.
Before replacing the ecu I'd like to hear other suggestions. I have access to the manual what I've printed out so far is pretty vague. It essentially has me read faults, correct the issue, clear faults. I'll check tomorrow to see if there is a more indepth test of the air system. Any insight is welcome.
The cover was a pain to remove so I opened up the holes a bit with my dremel.
Tomorrow l'll try to watch the live data while driving.
I drove it around while selecting comfort or sport. Live data remained the same. 9,9,9, 17 front left. I can check the ohm values of each harness but I am suspecting a bad ecu. Possibly the damaged front left damper shorted the ecu out. All of its pins were exposed in the area that was cracked. The pins quite possibly came in contact with the metal on the top of the strut shorting out the ecu.
The covers should have their own set of nuts, on top of the strut nuts. So two nuts per strut stud.
The dampers should read 17 at all times when stopped or not moving, no matter what the switch is set to. Comfort or normal while driving down the road should be 1's, unless steering, cornering, or braking/accelerating happens then they change.
LILEVO, thank you for the damper explanation. The covers were bolted down correctly with their own set of nuts.
Luckily used suspension ecu's are fairly cheap. I picked one up on ebay for $45. It should be here this weekend.
I see the system also has a relay. Since I have data I'm assuming the relay is functioning. Hopefully the ecu does the trick. I really don't feel like getting up close and personal with the floor on the passenger side while checking wires. I'm assuming it's located in the same location as the 460, near the glove box.
While I'm waiting for parts I decided to check out the electric parking brake issue. I found a blown 30 amp fuse in the trunk for the epb. I replaced the fuse but the system is still not functional (new fuse didn't blow). Using the Techstream utility I can go through the process of clearing the codes but nothing changes.
The process to remove the epb module looks pretty involved. I plan on ordering another epb ecu module as a first step. If the location is similar to a 460 I suspect is has water damage. Corrosion in the module from water seems to be a common theme among early 460's.
Tomorrow l'll try to watch the live data while driving.
I drove it around while selecting comfort or sport. Live data remained the same. 9,9,9, 17 front left. I can check the ohm values of each harness but I am suspecting a bad ecu. Possibly the damaged front left damper shorted the ecu out. All of its pins were exposed in the area that was cracked. The pins quite possibly came in contact with the metal on the top of the strut shorting out the ecu.
I had the same issue. I removed the glove box and checked the pins on the ECU for Ohms which showed a short on 2 of the terminals. This is what made me cut open the the harness which revealed the 2 broken wires. I also had an ECU in my Ebay cart just in case but I did not need it. I temporarily stripped the wires and twisted then back up after I figured out how to de-pin the terminals which cleared my C1731 code and got my dampers working again. The dealer wants way to much money for the terminals so I ordered about 10 terminals from an online vendor who sells the terminals which are made by Sumitomo and paid them an extra fee to crimp on the wires. I'm still feeling the small bumps which probably means the dampers are a bit worn even though the air bags are not leaking. My 2 front shocks arrived yesterday so I'll be changing them out to see if it makes any difference.
Sha4000 Nice work replacing the pins. On mine the wires are exposed a few inches, they look ok. It's still very possible one has a break in it. I should get out there and ohm them out lol. I do plan on returning the ecu if it's not the problem. Is it pretty easy to access once the glovebox is out? It sounds like your wire issue was causing all of the actuators not to function like mine, is that true?
I hit the ride height button while watching techstream. All of my airbags seem to be holding too. The 4 corners all increased an inch or so and came back down when selected.
You must have a steady hand. There is no way I'd be draining/filling those fluids on my driveway without a plastic tarp underneath!
I don't work on the driveway often but when I do I try to be careful. Unfortunately, I did make a mess on the last drain and fill. I didn't expect the front diff to be under pressure after driving only a mile. The plug and fluid shot out. Using a tarp crossed my mind after the fact Once the concrete reaches 300f this summer it'll burn off. Until then the laundry detergent I put down makes that spot smell nice.
We had our walkway replaced a few years ago. The driveway is also on the way out. Once it is replaced I'm sure the Mrs. wll ban me from working on it.
02-07-21, 07:16 PM
Once the concrete reaches 300f this summer it'll burn off. Until then the laundry detergent I put down makes that spot smell nice.
