LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017) Discussion topics related to the current flagship models LS460, LS460L and LS600H

DIY Transmission Mount AKA Rear Engine Mount

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Old 01-30-21, 07:06 PM
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AZGS4
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Default DIY Transmission Mount AKA Rear Engine Mount

I replaced my main two front engine mounts today thanks to the guidance from miket000 and williamb82 in this thread:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...placement.html

I also completed replacement of the Transmission Mount PN# 1237138050 for my 2007 LS460. I do not recall seeing a DIY on this one in the LS460, so I thought I would do a quick write up.

1. On a flat and level surface, jack up the front end of the car and then place jack stands in the locations recommended in the manual (be safe and do this the correct way)
2. Remove the lower cover(s) to reveal the transmission
3. Using a 2 x 6 cut to size and a floor jack, slightly jack up the transmission via the pan just enough to support the weight of the transmission and take the pressure off the mount and bracket
4. Remove the 4 smaller nuts circled in blue in the picture below (I can't remember if they were 10 or 12mm, but I think they were 12mm)
5. Remove the 4 x 14mm bolts circled in red in the picture below,
6. Note the orientation of the bracket and then pull down on the bracket to separate it from the mount. Mine stuck a little on one side and I had to pry between the mount and the bracket with a flat head screwdriver to release it
7. You will now have a clear view of the transmission mount
8. Remove the 4 x 14mm bolts circled in yellow that attach the mount to the transmission in the picture below and remove the mount (note the orientation of the mount before you remove it so you can install the new one the same way)
9. Install the new mount to the transmission and tighten all 4 x 14mm bolts (22 ft-lb)
10. Place the lower bracket correctly over the newly installed transmission mount by lining up the 4 holes with the bolts extending from the mount and make sure the perimeter holes line up with the bolt holes
11. Install and tighten the 4 x 14mm bolts at the edges of the lower bracket - red in the picture (19 ft-lb)
12. Install and tighten the 4 nuts on the mount bolts - blue in the picture (10 ft-lb)
13. Once everything is tightened and you have double checked your work, lower the jack from the transmission pan. This will transfer the weight of the transmission back to mount and bracket
14. Safely remove the jacks from the car and lower the car via the jack


I used a 2 x 6 and floor jack on the transmission pan to support the transmission weight while removing and installing the mount

Another view of the 2 x 6 and transmission pan with jack

View from the underside of the mount support bracket

Remove the nuts circled in blue first and then the 4 bolts circled in red

4 x 14mm bolts that hold that mount to the transmission bracket

Here you can see the mount once the support bracket is removed

This is what it looks like with the mount removed

The new transmission mount ready to go in


Last edited by AZGS4; 08-30-21 at 02:18 PM. Reason: Added bolt torque specifications
The following 6 users liked this post by AZGS4:
Allusuc (01-30-21), BiGEZ (01-31-21), Gumart1 (01-30-21), miket000 (01-30-21), texas008 (02-07-23), yyymmm31 (01-31-21) and 1 others liked this post. (Show less...)
Old 01-30-21, 07:35 PM
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Gumart1
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Great write up! Just curious if you drove the car after the motor mounts or did all at the same time to measure the improvement? Did you replace them due to vibration, or miles? What was the physical condition of your old mounts? I want to tackle this myself but as per the previous tutorial, I know it's a big job. My independent Lexus tech says by the book it's 15 labor hours.
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Old 01-30-21, 10:00 PM
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AZGS4
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Thanks. I have not driven the car yet since completing any of the mounts. I have the front suspension disassembled now waiting for control arms and tie rods to come in and will not be able to drive it again until after that time. I could tell the mounts were in need of replacement due to vibrations starting to occur when the car was in drive and at a stop. The vibrations were worse when cold and warming up while in drive and at a stop. I was also at 157K miles so it was time. The old mounts have all lost their rigidity with the drivers side being the worst where the bolt that attaches to the lower frame was easily moved by hand with no resistance. In contract, the new mount was stiff and difficult to move by hand.
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Old 02-06-23, 10:48 PM
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Damiane619
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Hey brotha how hard was it to do the motor mounts? Mine is vibrating hard when in drive and stopped stops when I drive or put it in neutral don’t know if it’s my tranny mount or engine mounts can you help me please
Old 02-07-23, 06:53 AM
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swfla
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You might want to search that question. Not a simple answer. AWD or 2WD makes a difference. Engine and or transmission need to be jacked up as part of the repair.
Old 02-07-23, 07:25 AM
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Damiane619
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Mine is 2wd
Old 02-08-23, 06:20 PM
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sha4000
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Originally Posted by Damiane619
Hey brotha how hard was it to do the motor mounts? Mine is vibrating hard when in drive and stopped stops when I drive or put it in neutral don’t know if it’s my tranny mount or engine mounts can you help me please
The most likely sign of a bad transmission mount would be vibrations in your seat or great sister when at idle. Signs of a bad engine mount would be evident if you pop the hood while idling then have someone tap the gas pedal which and hard. You will see the whole engine move. Slight movement is normal but any exaggerated movement is not normal. There is a whole thread if you search on the procedure to change engine mounts as well as transmission mounts. You will need to jack up the engine to change them. The easiest way is to support the engine and then drop the subframe IMO. It all depends on your level of DIY experience. The transmission mount is way easier since all you have to do is support the transmission and remove 4 bolts. Depending on your mileage ALL these mount will probably fall apart once they are off the vehicle.
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