LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017) Discussion topics related to the current flagship models LS460, LS460L and LS600H

Oops I think I broke my car

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Old 02-11-21, 08:06 AM
  #16  
xfea
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Chevy LS Swap....

Last edited by xfea; 02-11-21 at 09:50 AM.
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Old 02-11-21, 08:08 AM
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tx170754
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Originally Posted by sdls
Drain the oil and look for gold flakes. If it’s clean, that’s good. If you can see stars, then it’s time to look for a motor. Good news is that they are cheap.
Maybe here but he is in Ukraine !
Old 02-11-21, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Anfanger
Yes, different crankshaft bearings are for different amount of wear.
They are not. The various bearings are to precisely match the crank journals and caps this is done at the factory on assembly. When the crank is machined there is always some variation most auto makers simply put in the same bearings and call it a day Lexus goes a step further and makes sure all clearances are identical.
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Old 02-11-21, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Lexus2000
They are not. The various bearings are to precisely match the crank journals and caps this is done at the factory on assembly.
Is it LS specific? Because I have done Camry engine bearings and it is totally not the case.
Old 02-11-21, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Anfanger
Is it LS specific? Because I have done Camry engine bearings and it is totally not the case.
Same deal on a Camry engine, or pretty much any Toyota engine. The bearings are made to match the caps and machined bores in the block not to compensate for wear. If what you were saying was true there would be no markings on the caps and block (not to be confused with the position marks) since all the bearings would be the same from the factory.
Old 02-11-21, 08:32 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Lexus2000
Same deal on a Camry engine, or pretty much any Toyota engine. The bearings are made to match the caps and machined bores in the block not to compensate for wear. If what you were saying was true there would be no markings on the caps and block (not to be confused with the position marks) since all the bearings would be the same from the factory.
Again, I disagree. Camry engine bearings start with STD size meaning, it is original. Then the size goes with 0.01 increment.
Old 02-11-21, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Anfanger
Again, I disagree. Camry engine bearings start with STD size meaning, it is original. Then the size goes with 0.01 increment.
A number is stamped on the caps and block you match that number when replacing the bearings. This assumes the crank is not worn which it normally isn't. Yes the bearings vary in spec but that spec is not intended to be used on a machined crank it is used on assembly of a new engine to get exact clearances.

You can use the varying sizes to compensate for a machined crank but that is not the intended purpose of the various sizes/part numbers. Toyota does offer specifically over sized rings, but the bearings are not for that purpose if the crank is worn they tell you to replace it.

edit - for the LS there is no oversized pistons or rings available from Lexus I checked.

Last edited by LeX2K; 02-11-21 at 08:48 AM.
Old 02-11-21, 09:29 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by tx170754
Maybe here but he is in Ukraine !
overnight.
parts.
from.
japan.
Old 02-11-21, 09:30 AM
  #24  
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[QUOTE=sdls;10991752]overnight.
parts.
from.
Japan.
Not cheap !
Old 02-11-21, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fwhomeboy
Any good mechanic will tell you that when you tear it down, you might as well replace all the bottom end parts while it's apart. Be ready to do a rebuild.
do define bottom end parts and I’ll look into it thanks
Old 02-11-21, 02:27 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by sdls
Now that we know your motor has failed, Can you describe in more detail exactly what happened? So that we don’t make the same mistake?
was your oil level low? What type of oil were you running?
how long did you have the motor revving while you tried to get the car moving in snow?
did your Michelin CrossClimate tires get stuck in the snow? Is that even possible?
let’s see, I checked a couple of weeks ago and it was good, I’ve hardly driven since so I doubt the level was low. Toyota 0w20

hmmm how long did I rev let’s see, so it I didn’t get stuck on the roads, I had no problems driving there it was some shall we say semi cleared. I got stuck once in the parking lot trying to get out because it was not cleared at all and even after 3 of us tried our best with some shovelling and sand for a considerable amount of time, no dice so I had to call for a tow since I could not even get Bach to the spot I was in. I figured I get pulled out and carry on with what I wanted to do to begin with. The snow was more than a feet, probably 2. Compacted snow was beginning to get stuck underneath the carriage so another issue that needs to be addressed is lifting the car 1.5 inches or so, if not I will continue to have this sort of thing happen, I was stuck in mud a few months back. This time it’s snow, I believe if I have the lift I might not have gotten stuck, but it is hard to say at the moment. There was sone reving but since there was no movement I was cognoscenti of the fact I was doing it and stopped quickly when I saw I wasn’t going anywhere.

so i drove for about an hour did my stuff had some difficulty getting into the parking spot of where I had to be at, but i wasn’t stuck stuck, I had to reverse and try a few times here and there, there was some revving. No issues no weird sounds.

problem happened 3 hours later when I tried to get out, I managed sone but was stuck 1/2 way, some people helped, I got out a bit and the I felt was getting stuck again, I was still moving for some reason I guess because I was tired and have had enough of being stuck I floored it, the car was continuing to move but ever so slowly. Also since I floored it then engine sounded very high pitched and then at some point around that the knock started I guess I should have stopped there but I continued to drive for another 10mins or 4km then I realised it would be better to stop.

stupid me didn’t realise your engine could go kaput by doing that lol I figured it something was going to happen the engine will shut off or something would happen, maybe it did but I did not realise. So yeah well lesson learnt 😂😂

here’s a glittery photo for your enjoyment and I shall post updates when I know more and keep you guys along for the ride as I always do,


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Old 02-11-21, 02:59 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jdanielca
do define bottom end parts and I’ll look into it thanks
Basically a rebuild is in order. I would just replace the engine if that's an option.
Old 02-11-21, 04:18 PM
  #28  
tx170754
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Originally Posted by fwhomeboy
Basically a rebuild is in order. I would just replace the engine if that's an option.
I would remove the oil pan and see the shape of the crank, maybe it is not necessary to replace the whole engine...seeing the colour of the flakes I guess the crank bearings are done but also depends what is the crank damage, a new crank with new bearings could be a more cost effective alternative in Ukraine...just my .02
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Old 02-11-21, 04:31 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by tx170754
I would remove the oil pan and see the shape of the crank, maybe it is not necessary to replace the whole engine...seeing the colour of the flakes I guess the crank bearings are done but also depends what is the crank damage, a new crank with new bearings could be a more cost effective alternative in Ukraine...just my .02
The cost of a new crank and bearings and a mechanic to do the remove and replace and, of course no warranty? Hmmm, OK. Good luck Sir.
Old 02-11-21, 04:37 PM
  #30  
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Keep in mind he is in Ukraine, labor cost are probably very low there and, besides that, getting an, even used, engine there could be a problem except probably looking at a scrap yard in Germany...
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