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The easiest motor mounts removal instructions ever. (RWD)
Ok, I've seen all methods of removing the ls460 (RWD) motor mounts and its all crazy and ridiculous.
These procedures or steps you guys are doing are insane and ridiculous for removing the ls460 motor mounts. Both side can be done under 1.5 hr even less probably an hour.
I have seen so many methods and all are crazy. Some removing a bunch of suspension parts,.steering rack and pinion. I see a lot of people dropping the subframe down. There is a way easier method to removing the 2 front motor mounts.
1 jack up your car high enough to where you are comfortable down there.
2 remove the under plastic splash guards 10 mm socket.
3 remove the big metal shield cover. There are 2. One big and then one medium one 14mm socket
4 unscrew the top and bottom motor mounts nut 17mm i believe
5 remove the engine mount bracket which is a total of 6 bolts. 14mm i believe
6 remove the steering rack and pinion harness.
7 jack up the engine using a jack with wood that is the same length or longer as the oil pan because that's where you will be jacking it up from.
8 just pull out the passenger side motor mount that's it lol
9 The driver side you remove the manifold heat shield and same process as step 7.
Not one single suspension parts removed and no need to drop the subframe. You're welcome guys.
You seem to have a RWD, AWD has more systems cramped and does not have as much room to move around. I would like to see this method done on AWD.
By the way, one of your lower control arms needs a new bushing.
these look like snippets from a video by Astral Auto Repair when he did the starter on an RWD LS. When I saw the video for the first time I was also surprised at how he was able to remove the motor mount on the passenger side without dropping the subframe. If I recall correctly he also removed the alternator for some reason.
The front sway bar is located in a different place on AWD, in addition to a differently shaped subframe and slightly different motor mounts. Last time I was doing some work around the engine mounts' area, I remember, it is being tight on space and hard to get to components.
these look like snippets from a video by Astral Auto Repair when he did the starter on an RWD LS. When I saw the video for the first time I was also surprised at how he was able to remove the motor mount on the passenger side without dropping the subframe. If I recall correctly he also removed the alternator for some reason.
If he really used somebody else work, which is fine, he should provide a proper reference.
I haven't had to replace my motor mounts yet but was just wondering the reason for this? In your photos it appears your wheel(s) are still on the vehicle.
There is no need to remove the subframe it anything else to get the passenger mount out but the driver's mount is a different story since there are more things in the way. If the OP got his out the way he's describing it then kudos to them but you would have to Jack the engine up crazy high to the point that you might break or snap something. IMO, it's not worth the risk. The studs in the mounts are so long which makes it a bit nerve racking to keep jacking the engine to try to clear them. I tried it that way and just was not comfortable as the engine moved higher.
It's less stressful and easier just to drop the frame IMO.
Lol, now that I really look at the pics, that is my car with the blue garage floor and I posted those pics in the big motor mount thread. I smell something fishy here.
I mean this is normally how it's done on anything that is RWD not just the 460, you can move the engine upward as far as you want provided you don't crush anything above the trans since that is 99% of the time the first point of contact.
AWD or 4x4 cars/trucks that have the engine pointing longitudinally are sometimes the exact same way but other times you are in for a litany of steps and removed parts.
There is no need to remove the subframe it anything else to get the passenger mount out but the driver's mount is a different story since there are more things in the way. If the OP got his out the way he's describing it then kudos to them but you would have to Jack the engine up crazy high to the point that you might break or snap something. IMO, it's not worth the risk. The studs in the mounts are so long which makes it a bit nerve racking to keep jacking the engine to try to clear them. I tried it that way and just was not comfortable as the engine moved higher.
It's less stressful and easier just to drop the frame IMO.
Lol, now that I really look at the pics, that is my car with the blue garage floor and I posted those pics in the big motor mount thread. I smell something fishy here.
Fully agree with you there. Btw, which blue garage floor are you referring to? Looks like it's outdoors and that's a a partially blue cardboard box on the ground.
Fully agree with you there. Btw, which blue garage floor are you referring to? Looks like it's outdoors and that's a a partially blue cardboard box on the ground.
yeah I must have been seeing things that day lol, plus I didn't even notice that someone is in the photo so I recant that statement.
I was raising the engine pretty high to see if I could get the driver's side mount out but like I said it got to the point where it got a bit uncomfortable. I kept thinking about the 400 where you have to be careful not to break the heat control valve that's on the firewall. Plus the steering linkage is in the way. I would have loved not to have to drop the subframe so I hope the OP can provide some better pics of how he actually accomplished it.