jerrb

some info I leaned during this install

I originally calibrated at 50 HU volume against a max of 62, that was wrong. What I didn't realize is that in the Fix jl tune on the computer it shows the response level meters in the red on the front channels.

It took me a day to realize that the HU volume you choose to calibrate it at is what controls those levels. max I could calibrate was 40, 41 put the fronts into the red.
I should have done some measuring before I started taking speakers out, etc. Watch the RMS level in the fix software. I matched the output as close to those numbers as possible 7100 front and rear and 1VDC sub.

Yes this is all done playing pink noise with Twk rcas not connected. I calibrated at multiple levels before I realized why I was getting distortion, clipping, etc.

So once that was done at the headunit volume of 40 it calibrated just fine.

I also tried to calibrate with just the front two channel woofer signals, didn't work. I added the front tweeter inputs, same thing. I added the rear "squawker" inputs (as called by the wiring book) still, not enough signal. I then added the sub woofer wires and it calibrated fine. each time it gave me the not enough signal to calibrate red blinking LEDs.

Then reconnecting the Twk rca's. Connecting the drc remote, re setting all amp gains to zero, all crossovers off, or null. (passive front 3 ways) Must use both rca for sub channel (that changed things considerably)
Without playing any JL tones or pink noise I set up the twk. Sub at 100 low pass, (using stock sub for now) front focal as3 passive at 61 high and rear at 61 also I think, even though the crappy jl c1 rear coaxial pretty much blow. worst things I ever bought.

One note here. The ML rear door panel speaker covers fit on the non ML rear door where the carpet is, rip the carpet off and jb weld the ML speaker covers from ebay. Then you can put a regular 6.5 in the rear doors, this speaker blank hole is a regular toyota 3 bolt holder/adapter. clearance/depth is an issue. As is the front.
This is why I eventually bought the focal as3. They're thin, they fit. I still don't like them regardless. I had silver flutes and seas prestige stuff ready but gave up on fitment and moved it to a different toyota. Which also changed why I went passive, changing the LC 6 amp wiring. Anyway...

The ML wires are in the car's trunk, just not connected to anything with a foam cover, up by the trunk lid hinge above the stock stereo amp. I used those wires as amp to rear channel 3 and 4. Yes I used stock wiring except for the tweeter. That connector is a standard toyota stereo connector - 10 position connector.

inputs to fix= front woofer, front tweeter, rear 4" or squawker and rear sub. RCA to Twk RCA to Audio control.
outputs from audio control, front 1 and 2 to passive crossovers, crossovers to stock woofer wires and stock tweeter wires to 3.5" focal and new wire ran all the way to focal tweeters in the stock location. sub out to stock sub, stock wires.

Set up twk crosssovers for both front and rear, sub at 80 low.
My drc remote, the drc 205 stays hooked to Twk, mounted in the middle flat in the cupholder.

twk and fix both separately grounded on the trunk hinge ground bolt where another bunch of white/black lexus grounds are.
Amp ground on the same sheet metal that had another threaded m6 hole with a welded nut.
No noise, extremely low noise floor. Lower than another toyota with a much cleaner install.
+12 VDC to both fix and twk from stock stereo amp B+1 wire, bigger gauge wire in amp connector.
+12 VDC ACC wires for both from drivers side trunk fuse box.

Before playing anything I set crossovers in the twk tuning software. I just looked and they're both front and rear at 63high and sub at 100 low.
Then just played some tunes, sat my wife in the car and played with Eq and TA stuff until she said it was good.
It's fine, and if I didn't have another car to compare it to I'd probably say it was pretty good for speakers that point at the windshield.

my parting words, don't use jl c1 stuff, it's garbage. I'm not fond of the focals but the fity in there, little dremmel and everything fits with the stock adapters. I couldn't let this car sit very long. It's my wife's.
As much effort for getting ML rear door speaker covers for a 6.5" fill I should have bought a decent speaker and bandpassed it. I know this is completely subjective.
The center channel is there to cover up the ****iness of the mid and tweet location.

If I could figure out the non nav parts and delete the LAN I would, no matter the cost.
If this becomes a long term keeper and becomes mine I will figure a way to delete the stereo and install something real
until then the beat sonic AA carplay unit it back instock today, I just got an email. Hopefiully I get that this week and install it.

I'm amazed how crappy the stock system is. This new set up is decent
I will post pics.

I can still use the stock HU volume to go down from max of 40 no issues. Going up from there it's bad.
either I use the DRC master at any level or the head unit volume from 40 going down. Either way it's good.
Amp gains are at zero, mostly because she said it was good and was tired of me and just plain done with it.

jerrb

As always, it's a work in progress.

Vtallysx4

I searched all over to find a way to bypass the processing in the stock system, called and emailed a few companies who make MOST integration modules for other makes, got nowhere. Pac-audio has some stuff for newer Lexus and Toyota, but nothing for this specific model. I used Morel 3-way components in the front, active, and 2-way in the rear for rear fill, off of a Helix v-eight. I put the director in the sunglass holder and forgot the volume on the radio ever existed unless I am listening to the radio (almost never). I just connect through Bluetooth directly to the helix unit and use the director to control volume, skip track, etc. The helix also switches seamlessly if I get a call, or I turn up the volume on the radio to hear some tunes on the FM dial. When I was looking at the signal on an oscilloscope I found the output on the front channels would start to distort after 42, on the subwoofer channel distortion was somewhere around 35 or so. This was the reason I went with the helix, so when I listen to music to enjoy it, I can bypass all of the factory processing and have a cleaner signal. I only listen to the radio for background noise if I don't have signal on my phone. For my subs, I used 2 audiofrog 12's on a sundown 2000 watt amp. It pounds when I want it to. For processing of the radio's signal- I believe I have the front door woofer and dash 3" and tweeter (on each side) summed to get a full range signal, but it needed a lot of tweaking to get the input signal flat for the subs. The radio sounds fine, but once again I prefer to use the Bluetooth direct to the helix. One day, I may go for a two seat tune, but then I would need to replace the center dash speakers and add a small one channel amp to run it. For now it sounds great from where I'm sitting.