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Control arms and Ball joints 2010 LS460 sport

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Old 12-15-21 | 07:51 AM
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Default Control arms and Ball joints 2010 LS460 sport

Hello , I was the proud owner of a 1992 LS400 for years and put over 200k on that car but regrettably I sold it a few years Back and a year ago I decided to upgrade to a 2010 owner LS 460 sport with 75k on it . Well it’s been disappointing to say the least. I finally got all the bad air shocks replaced myself and I still have the terrible clunking in the front end . So now I am going to do the ball joints and control arms . My question is what parts does anyone recommend that will last 100k or more so I don’t have to do this job again ? Thanks in advance , Kurt

Last edited by Sport460ls; 12-18-21 at 04:35 PM.
Old 12-15-21 | 08:52 AM
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I would check control arm bushings first. While either of ball joints can go out, it is more likely that the control arm bushings are gone.
Old 12-15-21 | 09:34 AM
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Yes sir I will do that , Thanks
Old 12-15-21 | 09:42 AM
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As far as everyone here reports, control arms (even the updated version) wear out fast. Heavy car, hard or easy driving conditions will get you 20-50k miles. I believe it's the upper arm that wears quickly.
Old 12-15-21 | 09:45 AM
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Wow , that’s terrible news I may fix and sell if that’s the case .
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Old 12-15-21 | 11:09 AM
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See for yourself by searching for "control arm" threads and read about them. Then you can make an informed decision.
Old 12-15-21 | 12:12 PM
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Arms are very easy to fix, takes about 10 min per arm. If you have an air car it's slightly more difficult
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Old 12-15-21 | 12:40 PM
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Hello , I do have Air and replaced the shocks myself .. the control arms appear more difficult? Thanks, Kurt
Old 12-15-21 | 02:40 PM
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Do you have RWD or AWD?
Old 12-15-21 | 02:46 PM
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RWD sir thanks so much ! Kurt
Old 12-16-21 | 02:56 AM
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It is easier to change control arms in RWD. AWD lower front control arms tend to fuse with holding bolts and subframe. The only way to remove those is to cut them out. You do not have to deal with it.

Make sure you research the subject before changing the arms. Especially the part where you need to pre-load new arms properly after installation.
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Old 12-16-21 | 03:12 AM
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Thanks for the information I really appreciate it , Kurt
Old 12-17-21 | 07:07 PM
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also check the front brake pads, and the tension wire (not sure what the proper name is, it applies tension from below the pads so when the pads grab the disc, the play in the pad end tabs are already against the rotation of the wheel).
another thing is if the pads are old there is play on the end tabs where it rides in the calipers and will bounce and make rattling noise when going over bumps. One easy way to confirm it's not the pads is find a very bad road and drive over it with slight brake pressure applied and if noise goes away, it's the play in the pads.
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Old 12-17-21 | 07:44 PM
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Thanks I will give it a try !
Old 12-18-21 | 11:29 PM
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For the lower rearward go OEM for sure.


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