is this on lexus cars? Did the owners use TGMO ? Did they do 5k or 10k changes.

i learned to ask everyone of my 300 rebuilds what exact oil they used and their time in hours between changes. I could judge intake of abrasives visually and in the sump.

In the 20 years of working on the same engine i used to replace over stretched cam chains frequently in the early 2000’s non recently. Either they got better at keeping abrasives out of the oil or the oil quality increased.

‘Maybe my comments about using better air filter material and filter oil helped. Any my comments about needing high detergent oil to hold carbon in suspension so I could be flushed out during changes helped.

without a chart or memory of what exactly was used in the stretched chain engines the info is anecdotal.

as most here are not running TGMO it seems the 5k is probably a good idea.

An oil analysis would seem to be a cheap investment to be sure of what your exact engine needs. I rarely run to redline anymore. Lots of throttle as I love the torque but little need for redline.

‘Thanks for your info.

we found timing chain stretch made only a very small difference in actual cam timing. At least in the single caliber off road motor

 

IS F and GS F data points are here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-uoa-here.html and https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-uoa-here.html. Granted, these are pretty low mileage cars - one had 100k miles and the other just short of 200k miles. You can see nearly the entire history of my IS F and my wife's GS F in these threads including 12k and 14k OCIs on my IS F including track days and 275 degree oil temps with the relevant mass spec numbers. Don't expect too much from Blackstone, they're not a full on certified lab by any stretch of the imagination.

There is a much more in depth discussion in the RC F forum. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rc-...hetic-oil.html. I had Daniel from Tribologik interpret my Blackstone results. This is the response: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rc-...ml#post9783463.

Most of the IS F's history is running Mobil 1 5w-30. That's the specified weight for the 2UR-GSE. As you can see from Daniel's interpretation, Mobil 1 didn't do a good job of managing fuel dilution. I took his recommendation and switched to Renewable Lubricants PCMO SHP 5w-30 shortly after he posted this. The GS F has been run exclusively on RLI at the factory specified 5k mile intervals from the second oil change on, and the iron numbers are lower than anything I can ever recall seeing at 4 ppm. I am firmly convinced Mobil 1 is not a good choice for Lexus engines because it does not manage fuel dilution well at all. Also, Mobil 1's formula has changed significantly over the years without Mobil saying anything about it. You can actually see one of these changes in my results from Blackstone where the calcium numbers change dramatically. I have not seen any changes with RLI, just solid reports. Finally, RLI isn't a "game changer" from a wear perspective. The IS F only went down 2 ppm on a 5k mile OCI, and both cars have 5k OCIs now for a combination of reasons more to do with simplicity than anything else.

Last but not least, there is objective test data available for new oil load capacity on RAT540's blog. Love him or hate him, he does have a reasonable ranking of oils for load capacity. It's only one feature of what a quality oil needs to deliver, but in the flat tapped domestic V8 world, load capacity is a big deal especially with aggressive cam grinds and rocker arm actuated 2 valve per cylinder engines. So it's a big deal for the domestics. There's lots more of this in both the IS F and RC F forums as well. At least this has real data from real Lexus engines and an interpretation from someone with experience in the field of reading test results and providing causal analysis.

 

Thanks for posting that so I didn't have to, I was in the process of digging up those threads among other info.

I push for 5k with a high load capacity oil so you don't have to care nearly as much about acid and dilution/anything. Much easier than risking anything degrading if it's something you care about

 

I gave away my Mobil 1 15 years ago after seeing massive wear in my 4 stroke bike engines. MY dealer uses it unless you ask for TGMO

 

I suspect if I were still using a 10k mile OCI, I'd see a significant difference over Mobil 1 in the iron wear numbers. To be fair, I've seen a 15%-17% iron wear reduction just by changing my brand of oil. Sounds a lot more impressive as a percentage than a 2 ppm reduction. Pics of my top end at ~63k miles are posted in the threads I linked, and the wear isn't bad, neither is the varnish level. I suspect the GS F is in much better shape though. I also suspect the cam chains in my IS F are at or beyond the service manual wear limits. I have all the stuff to change them out (chains, slippers, tensioners), I just haven't made time to do it. I also have an updated cam chain tensioner that has been problematic on cold starts for a very long time. I've pretty much decided I'll do a freshen up on the whole engine when I do this and do some significant blueprinting while it's apart. It will just take a lot of time.

 

*sarcasm on* Oh whatever do you mean the chains are worn? That CAN'T happen! Chains last forever with no wear don't you know? *sarcasm off*

Yeah, at least the engine points the right way in your cars and not a transverse that requires a drop/pull to fix. My 460 somehow was in spec when I bought it, still not sure how when at its mileage it should have needed everything. My suspicion is that the 07s demand oil via book and warning system every 5k and the owner actually listened to it. Even sitting for over a week it doesn't have issues

I like mobile 1 in non DI cars that most of my fleet are comprised of, my DI cars use other oils. My most expensive engine however uses amsoil only.

Your 2UR-GSE engines however also have increased need for carrying load due to the non-roller valvetrain unlike the 1UR hydro roller setup. That's likely why you saw more metals

 

I am normally contrary to normal. I am able to take the tiny risk I am wrong, if it broke in half I would still own both halves. I could take bets here and give odds on getting to 200k miles at 10k TGMO changes and TGMO top offs. 2 to 1.

 

It would physically make it to 200 sure.....my Jeep went 60k miles with a cracked head and dumped over a gallon of coolant into the crankcase every week. But it made it, didn't even have oil pressure for the last few months before I rebuilt it.

I'm sure nearly any Lexus ever will make it to 200k with any oil you want at 10k intervals, my wife's first RX had 7 oil changes in its lifetime and it make it to 260k. They only changed it when the oil pressure light came on....I'm not exactly sure how but it made it till it was traded.

None of that means it's good for the engine it that you can expect it to perform as designed. I expect my car to work exactly to factory spec and if it doesn't I fix it. If I can't stand on the throttle and push the engine/trans/brakes/suspension/whatever without any fear of failure it's not in spec and trustworthy as new.

Ask yourself, would you trust your car to drive 1000 miles, hit a track hard for a day, and drive back home? If no then it's not in proper shape.

Again. The fact you are topping off means you have already done damage to the engine and it's consuming oil as a result of the wear to the guides and rings. It's not a turbo car, it shouldn't use any oil. If it does there is an external leak, PCV or separator failure, or it's worn internally, all of the above are a car that is not in spec and working properly.

If that works for you GREAT. However please do not tell people it's fine when it's not fine/will result in extra wear that they very much might not be okay with.

 

Might want to try again on that one Striker.



If that's not a roller rocker, I don't know what is. And like the sign in my dad's shop says, real engines have solid lifters.

 

This will be a fun test. I can run a compression test if I cared enough to do it. I do a standardized drive that I record the gas mileage. Any decrease would be compression or an increase in oil consumption. Car runs exactly the same at 54k as it does at 125k. Same acceleration. Same watch like idle. Same gas mileage. Same oil use.

Love Poking a stick in the fire.

long ago when we started car racing small block Chevy’s I was told that to start with everyone used Dave’s(fictious) setup then went from there. Everyone. Then I got with Dave and found out he did not use that “setup” his actual setup was different and faster yet. Trust not

like I stated I am already ahead as far as how much good I have received for the money I spent. Too much hassle to drive to the dealer every 5k. So better oil twice as long

 

Leakdown is a way better test. Compression is a test of your battery more than anything.

 

I swear I saw direct buckets on the 2UR, I'll look again but I thought that was one the major changes Yamaha did.

EDIT: Guess I remembered wrong, huh.....now I'm not sure what engine I crossed it with. I will have to review it since I swear there was an engine I was surprised that used the direct buckets but it may have been another brand entirely.

EDIT 2: It's the lash adjustment, I mixed up the non-self adjusting for direct buckets since I'm so used to non-hydraulic/self adjusting automatically meaning solid lifter from OHV V8s. My bad, totally forgot it's possible to have a roller rocker arm that requires manual adjustment. Oh well, I mixed it up it seems

 

Why would you go to the dealer? It takes 10 min to change oil and you don't even need to jack it up if you know where the filter is and have a long 3/8 for the drain plug....

 

I think the better question is why would I crawl around on the ground and change the oil when I can pay someone else to do it?

realistically, don’t assume everyone is a mechanic like you. Most are not and you thinking that they are is wishful thinking both from a skill and desire perspective …

 

My wife does it on her 430. It's easy and not worth the time driving out or paying someone, plus he claimed he does a lot of mechanical work himself so it just didn't compute why he is mentioning taking a car to a dealer for something like an oil change.