True, technically, they become out-of-true. My point remains the same, the solution is to replace or resurface the rotors.

 

Resurfacing is a waste of metal and can make things far worse by putting a spiral groove in the disc. I only replace rotors.

 

My experience is the opposite. I always resurface rotors at least once. Resurfaced rotors tend to last longer before they start causing vibrations. That could be attributed to my soft foot. I can that not being the case for those that brake hard.

 

Mine were resurfaced by the selling dealer, found that out on the test drive on the 2nd 130-30 stop. They gave me credit for new brakes that I used to get a set of tires lol

 

Resurfaced ones die in one hard drive or less.

 

Again, that has not been my experience. I was mostly joking about the hard braking. As long as the rotor is resurfaced within manufacturer specs, it will provide oem performance. In my 30 years of having my brake rotors resurfaced, I have not experienced any adverse issues. That includes the cars I have worked on for friends and family.

 

My IS F did an unintended lane change under hard braking with resurfaced rotors. One front wheel was in ABS, the other was kicking the pads up and down from the spiral groove and not braking much at all . Never again.

 

Okay, but do you ever really push the car? On my way to the shop if I push the car to limit of grip while remaining in my lane it goes something like....

75 on 36/37, brake during left turn in down to 57-62 until on north old state, full power to 120ish, full braking down to 55-62 for a 25 mph signed left sweeping turn, then on power as it transitions to a right bank into a small strait up to 80, on brakes and throttle partially for 65 though the right hand sweep, full power with positive G to negative G braking zone into a right hand 35mph recommended section at 57-65 mph on partial power with slight rotation at the 3/4 point since the turn radius tightens, max power through a positive G incline to hill-crest that usually has extreme negative G at around 85-95 mph to 130-150 mph on the flat into max power braking approaching the next incline to avoid the car leaving the road/massive negative G you need to bleed off from 130-150 down to 80.

That's the first half of my drive if I decide to go max attack without cutting lanes. It will INSTANTLY kill a resurfaced rotor and fade out non-performance pads. My Jeep got heat checking and deposits from ONE time driving it to its limit on this drive since it has lowly duralast brakes.

A resurfaced rotor simply doesn't NOT keep up with what a 460 can do nor does stock or aftermarket "quiet and comfortable" pads or fluid since they fade and boil, and have serous deposit issues. Rotor flutter at 130mph is a hell of a thing let me tell ya....pulling may very well upset the car badly enough to yeet it into a ditch. Just say no to resurfaced rotors on a car that can conceivably suffer from it, the 460 is shockingly competent for what it is and deserves to be working correctly with good hardware.

Lexus has given us a hell of bargain with these cars so we should at least try and keep them working as intended IMO.

 

Yep! I had similar happen to me in my A8 since I got the brakes too hot and since only the S8 gets opposed piston fixed calipers the slides started to drag. Went for the brakes and the left side applied more than the right, pulled everything apart and changed to better lube and reminded myself not to push a new to me car until after I confirm everything is good.

 

RE shocks: shocks can have signs of leakage and still be OK and far from replacement. For warranty, dealers measure how far down on the shaft the fluid has run. If it's a small distance, shocks are OK. Also, the corner bounce test is still another diagnostic tool. Now if the roof on your house drips even one drop, that's a problem that needs fixing.

 

The IS F has 6 piston fixed calipers. Nothing fixes the pad following the groove the brake lathe cuts in a rotor.

 

I'm well aware, I just mentioned I have sliders for context on why I had a similar pull to your cut ones

 

I did the same buying my engine and trans mounts months ago...

 

I don't understand the statement that the LS is different regarding alignment. I have always taken my LS400's, LS430's and my LS460L AWD to have alignment done when putting on new tires. How are LS's different causing them not to be aligned as other cars?

 

Unless you are having symptoms: steering wheel not centered, car pulling to one side, uneven tire wear, an alignment isn't bad or needed. If you have worn/damaged suspension parts, replacing those parts first is a proper fix, then an alignment will be needed. But doing an alignment with worn parts will go right out of alignment the minute you drive the car. I don't know about 400 or 430 but the same principle applies. The suspension of a 460 is very complex and different from a pickup truck (which has traditional alignment adjustments). It only hurts your wallet and that's a personal choice/preference.
For decades we got a lube, oil and filter. Things change. Now, there's no lube points, just oil and filter. Shops still advertise LOF as a marketing ploy. Same idea.
My ex was told by her father to always get an oil change before a road trip. She never understood that it's about having a shop look over the car for safety issues and not that fresh oil magically makes a car ready for a road trip.
Also see posts 26 and 27. There's a pretty good explantation about how specialized an LS460 alignment is and even some dealers don't know about it.
I'd like to revise my misunderstanding of alignment on LS460. It IS possible to align the car. But, because it's a very different/unique procedure, it's best to ask questions of a shop's knowledge of this car.