XF40FSPORT

So a quick background on the whip…
Purchased a new to us ‘13 Fsport in ‘15 for the wife. Fast forward to ‘22, C arm bushings & FL air strut take a dump! Wife & I swap cars while I take care of all repairs, & we end up liking each other’s cars.

I have a premium, Non ML system, so it’s par/sub par in my books.

My goal was to build a noticeably cleaner/louder system w/ extra bass.

Hardware:
- Woofer/Amp: Rockford Fosgate P300-10
- LOC: Audio Control LCi2
- Dash Speakers: NVX NSP35
- Front Amp: Coustic Power Logic 207 35 RMS 2 channel
- 4 gauge power wire; 14 gauge speaker wire

First things first, I ran the power wire from battery to trunk. Once battery & bottom tray is removed, you’ll see the access point to the cabin.







I used a metal coat hanger & duck tape to feed the wire through the firewall into the cabin, on its way to the trunk.

Now onto the dash speakers…
The only reason I decided to change out dash speakers is bcuz I found an old amp laying around in my garage.

I decided on the NVX based on price & reviews. I bought the 3.5” & 4” to see which one had a better fit. 4” was too big to fit in the factory speaker bracket. The 3.5” fit like a glove. Factory tweeter is unplugged.



I plugged in the speakers to the factory system for a quick sound test, & IMO the factory speakers sounded cleaner. I proceeded to run new speaker wires to drive the 2 dash speakers w/ my amp. Once again, my trusty coat hanger didn’t disappoint.

Ran wires through the drivers side of car, into the trunk, as shown w/ red arrow.



I’m not finished cleaning up the trunk, so I’ll update with final product later.

But, I do have a functioning sound system.

I tapped my LCi2 into the factory amp speaker wires. Works great for my dash speakers, but Zero sound for the Sub. Either I have a defective unit, or it’s not compatible w/ a all in 1. I’ll hit up tech support later to figure that out.

Ended up tapping into the factory sub wires to get sound to the RF P300. Works great, & I don’t need to run a remote wire to the sub now.

Initial startup…dash speakers are loud AF. I had to turn down the gain on the LCi2 to 1/3 to make it bearable at volume level 25. Mids & tweeters are clear & crisp after a little tuning.

I have the gain on the sub barely above 0, & have the wired bass **** in the car around 1/3, & this thing hits. Bass **** at 1/2 vibrates my rear view mirror to the point where I have constantly readjust to see behind me. It’s not take your breath away bass, but more than enough for me.

I spent about $425 for everything!

Did all the labor myself, sweating it out in ~120 degree temps in my garage! Yeah, I live in Coachella Valley…if you know, you know.

All in all, I’m very satisfied with the new sound. Adding just a sub is an upgrade in itself, but the dash speakers being powered by an amp really changes the game.

Thanks to the following to assisted:

Swfla - sold me the Sub.

Gerf - I got a lot of useful info from his build.

Vtallysx4 - provided time saving info.

As stated above, I’ll take a final pic when I’m done cleaning up & mounting amp & LOC in a few days when I get around to it.

swfla

iTrader: (1)

Congrats on putting together a simple but effective sound upgrade. That 10" sub is really amazing for it's size. Really no need to replace any door speakers in my opinion. Do you think you will do doors in the future? How's your neck and back after the contortions to run power wire? I was sore for days.

XF40FSPORT

Agreed w/ not needing to upgrade door speakers. The way I have it right now, is perfect for my needs.

The HEAT in my garage was more an issue than my neck & back!

Day 1, I spent 7 hrs straight between adjusting RF height sensor link to even out the ride height & finally getting to running power wire. I ended up sweating out 6.5lbs. I was literally soaked & dripping sweat.