LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017) Discussion topics related to the current flagship models LS460, LS460L and LS600H

Slow Car acceleration

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Old 10-20-22, 12:47 AM
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LexLuv8000
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Default Slow Car acceleration

Why does my car acceleration so slow sometimes? Is this fuel pump delivery? I’m pressing gas full throttle yet the speed up is slow sometimes. The car throbs sometimes too. I did fuel cleaning almost every oil change just in case it was some gunk. Also speeding allot to burn the carbon buildup.

Please let me know so I can tell the shop to fix this asap. Thanks
Old 10-20-22, 06:03 AM
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swfla
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First get any OBD2 error codes. Any shop that does Toyota cars will help you.
Old 10-20-22, 06:21 AM
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hfahmy
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Originally Posted by LexLuv8000
Why does my car acceleration so slow sometimes? Is this fuel pump delivery? I’m pressing gas full throttle yet the speed up is slow sometimes. The car throbs sometimes too. I did fuel cleaning almost every oil change just in case it was some gunk. Also speeding allot to burn the carbon buildup.

Please let me know so I can tell the shop to fix this asap. Thanks
Did u just change the oil?
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Old 10-20-22, 07:54 AM
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Boykie
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Codes. If none - fuel pressure check.
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Old 10-20-22, 07:58 AM
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joedaddy1
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probably the transmission logic.. it's geared towards "comfort".. try using the power mode or the manual mode to see if it helps. The car has 8-speed transmission so it needs to kick down 2-4 gears to get moving.

If it's too bad, disconnect the battery for few minutes for the car to reset the logic and relearn your driving style.
there are time when the car is cruising in the city at 35mph.. and the accelerator needs to be pressed at least 50% for it to kick down the gears to pass. Anything less it'll speed up, but no VTEC.

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Old 10-20-22, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by joedaddy1
If it's too bad, disconnect the battery for few minutes for the car to reset the logic and relearn your driving style.
I know that in the late 80's - early 90's disconnecting the battery would clear all codes on toyota products but I don't believe that is the case now with keep alive memory in the ecu's. Must just be an urban myth or is there something in a manual that states this works? Yes, there is a procedure in techstream for this when replacing parts but the battery disconnect thing ??
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Old 10-20-22, 09:54 AM
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LexLuv8000
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Thanks guys. Did the battery thing but it’s still the same. I did the power switch, it improved a little but that consumes more gas so I’ll use it sometimes only.
maybe the fuel pump?
Old 10-20-22, 10:30 AM
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This is correct, unplugging the battery does not erase codes for things outside of settings for controls, seat and radio presets, etc. There is a Transmission code erase/relearn procedure and techstream is needed. Most systems need to be tickled by a computer anymore to erase. This is been the case since NVRAM became the norm and cheap enough to replace volatile RAM.
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Old 10-20-22, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by unabee
This is correct, unplugging the battery does not erase codes for things outside of settings for controls, seat and radio presets, etc. There is a Transmission code erase/relearn procedure and techstream is needed. Most systems need to be tickled by a computer anymore to erase. This is been the case since NVRAM became the norm and cheap enough to replace volatile RAM.
I am not even sure if the OP has a code. I didn't mean disconnect the battery to clear any codes. It's just a mere suggestion to reset the the car's system to see if the air/fuel/transmission or whatever else it resets to "help" with issue.
My suggestion was based on adaptive transmission logic/system or whatever it's called.

For example, our Hybrid needs to have the hybrid/ICE system recalibrated every so often after a battery disconnect.

Last edited by joedaddy1; 10-20-22 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 10-20-22, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by LexLuv8000
Thanks guys. Did the battery thing but it’s still the same. I did the power switch, it improved a little but that consumes more gas so I’ll use it sometimes only.
maybe the fuel pump?
disregard my comment on power mode.. I skipped over the part where you are flooring the car. I assumed you meant moderately swift acceleration instances.
Now, it sounds like a deeper issue.

Sounds like you may need to provide the experts with some car info such as mileage, fuel type, and conditions during full throttle.. I think the car won't let you redline if the engine is cold and the rev limiter/fuel cutoff may happen at a low RPM.. (~4500 RPM? just a WILD guess)

Good luck.
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Old 10-20-22, 12:27 PM
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We need more info to give you directions
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Old 10-21-22, 04:03 AM
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This was a pretty big topic here and has been discussed in depth. Some people had bad fuel causing the issue, some fixed it by disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU which allowed the ECU to learn their driving style, some claimed they fixed it by servicing their transmission. I bought some aftermarket high flow air filters and noticed a huge change in acceleration response, but every now and then I still get the lag coming back. Maybe buy a PedalCommander, apparently that works?
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Old 10-21-22, 04:29 AM
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LexLuv8000
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Thanks guys for your support. Current mileage is 190,000. Have a oil burning issue for 3-4 qts at 1000miles usage but decided to top it off. ( I added 5w-30 to burn the oil slower, this acceleration issue was even before I decided to put this oil). When I meant flooring was that zero mpg start and first and second gear rpm is around 2000-4000 but the speed doesn’t catch up and feels like less than4 cylinder car I mean really slow….it’s takes like more than 10 seconds to reach up to 50mph. Sometimes. I checked the old threads about transmission oil flush and seems like dealer wants me to do this so I will see tomorrow.

Last edited by LexLuv8000; 10-21-22 at 04:34 AM.
Old 10-21-22, 05:07 AM
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3-4? That engine is dead and buried.
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Old 10-21-22, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by LexLuv8000
Have a oil burning issue for 3-4 qts at 1000miles usage but decided to top it off
Sorry to tell you, that is your problem. That motor is shot, it needs serious work to attempt to fix that. 1 qt over 2-3k miles is acceptable but, 3-4, it shows it's a major issue.
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