Suspension Difference between 2008 and 2010 LS600h
#1
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Suspension Difference between 2008 and 2010 LS600h
I'm looking to replace a blown rear air strut on my 2008 ls600h. The part number for the right rear is 4808050202. When looking for a used one, I came across a 2010 which has 4808050281 as the part number. When looking further online, I have seen ones listed as working with 2008-2010, which is odd because on the Lexus parts blow out, 2008 part number differs from 2010. Does anyone know what the difference is with the 2010 strut? Any chance that they are interchangeable? Thanks.
#2
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According to the Lexus catalog 4808050281 does not fit anything older than 2010.
#3
I was wondering if you replaced yours yet. I'll likely be pulling mine out next week. Both of mine inflate normally but I believe one of the inner oil struts is bad. I'm pretty sure my left rear is the bad one. Back of my car has a weird uneven bounce. I'll sell you my used right one or both for dirt cheap if your interested. My used fronts are available too. No rust, 200k miles.
#4
Confirmed, the magic goo is no longer on the inside of my left strut.
Leaky left rear strut. I'm not 100 percent sure but I think a previous owner replaced this one from a junk yard. I remember pulling a twist tie tag off of it over a year ago.
Right rear strut is in good shape. Might be original 200k miles.
Leaky left rear strut. I'm not 100 percent sure but I think a previous owner replaced this one from a junk yard. I remember pulling a twist tie tag off of it over a year ago.
Right rear strut is in good shape. Might be original 200k miles.
Last edited by miket000; 11-02-22 at 06:56 PM.
#5
Pole Position
Speaking of bounce, the car I have now is my first air car and it rides fine but engine running or not I can't move any corner up or down by hand.
I'm just assuming this is normal because it rides fine and adjusts between comfort and s+ as it should. Just bugs the crap out of me.
I'm just assuming this is normal because it rides fine and adjusts between comfort and s+ as it should. Just bugs the crap out of me.
#6
I'm bored... just did a bounce test too. My 600 is the same as your car, hardly budges with my weight on a corner, maybe 1/2". Oddly enough the leaky left rear when I put my weight on it feels stiffer than the other corners. I didn't see or feel any deflection on the left rear..
My 460 195k miles ( standard struts, no air) had new struts 4 years ago. The bounce test on my 460 feels the same as the 600, hardly moves. The difference is I can start an oscillation on the 460 and get it rocking.
My 460 195k miles ( standard struts, no air) had new struts 4 years ago. The bounce test on my 460 feels the same as the 600, hardly moves. The difference is I can start an oscillation on the 460 and get it rocking.
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Gerf (11-03-22)
#7
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FYI, I recall reading several instances where the left and right got reversed. Don't recall if that was air or standard strut. Just double check for L and R as soon as you receive them. Good luck.
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miket000 (11-03-22)
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I was wondering if you replaced yours yet. I'll likely be pulling mine out next week. Both of mine inflate normally but I believe one of the inner oil struts is bad. I'm pretty sure my left rear is the bad one. Back of my car has a weird uneven bounce. I'll sell you my used right one or both for dirt cheap if your interested. My used fronts are available too. No rust, 200k miles.
#9
Unfortunately my right rear is also leaking. I discovered a pool of oil on top of the strut. I can still mail it if you want. Imk.
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks Mike but I'm going to try and source another. Has anyone had success with any of the cheap Chinese aftermarket air struts that maintain the ability to change the suspension settings? Must likely just going to get a used oem one online.
#11
Mine fell apart once out of the car. The section of mine that fell off is only held on by rubber. There are so many different ways a used one might fail. Seems like an awful gamble for little savings. $400 used vs $500 new oem on carmarka. How much are the new aftermarket ones your looking at?
When you do get around to replacing them you can use a ratchet strap to compress the strut. Thus avoiding removing any control arms. I only disconnected the top of the sway link. I also used a ratchet strap on my new strut to squeeze it into place.
1. Slide it down under the carpet liner
2. remove the air line
3. ratchet strap it together ( easy with no air in it)
4. Use a 2x4 or something to force the disc/ hub down a few inches
5. Slide the top of the strut out first
I fed the ratchet strap through the small hole on the strut. Then fed the hook into the loop sticking out. I'm sure there are a lot of different ways to this.
I used the 2x4 in this position to hold the hub down far enough to slide the strut out.
I used a jack under the hub to line the sway link back up. 2x4 was just used as padding.
That's not supposed to happen. Age and oil ate away at the rubber.
When you do get around to replacing them you can use a ratchet strap to compress the strut. Thus avoiding removing any control arms. I only disconnected the top of the sway link. I also used a ratchet strap on my new strut to squeeze it into place.
1. Slide it down under the carpet liner
2. remove the air line
3. ratchet strap it together ( easy with no air in it)
4. Use a 2x4 or something to force the disc/ hub down a few inches
5. Slide the top of the strut out first
I fed the ratchet strap through the small hole on the strut. Then fed the hook into the loop sticking out. I'm sure there are a lot of different ways to this.
I used the 2x4 in this position to hold the hub down far enough to slide the strut out.
I used a jack under the hub to line the sway link back up. 2x4 was just used as padding.
That's not supposed to happen. Age and oil ate away at the rubber.
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