07 LS460 transmission acts up after turning right quickly!
#16
Driver
Thread Starter
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Thanks for your input guys! The car is serviced every 5k at a Lexus dealership( oil and filter ). I pay for this service because at my age, I’m not crawling o It is also garaged and if there was any puddles or residue on the ground, it would have been addressed immediately! I have discussed this with the Service Manager, explained to him when it happens, and what I do to solve it! He doesn’t own a Lexus! We, collectively own Lexuses! I get on here and read about different issues that everyone has, and it’s informative. When I have an issue, I get on here to try to solve my issue! I’ve already looked at the transmission when the bottom covers were off! It’s not leaking anywhere from a very good visual inspection. The most logical answer so far is from the gentleman with the Facebook posts! But I welcome all inputs! Maybe something else will come in that’s an alternative reason. Thanks again!
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swfla (12-27-22)
#17
Pole Position
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I am surprised there are no error codes... If that is indeed the issue, it is an expensive repair.
#18
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I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't a leak, or at least not enough to be visible from outside the car. Like mentioned in the posts shared above, the valve body has a bunch of wiring in it that runs to a plug through the transmission casing. The body-side wiring harness connects to this plug from the outside, and the connection generally is through a plastic ring with a gasket around it to seal against the transmission case. The plug should have small gaskets for each pin to seal them against the fluid, but if those for some reason weren't doing their job that could allow fluid into the connections. Given that it's a wiring bundle, I could see the fluid being drawn up the cable via wicking instead of dripping and collecting on the ground.
You might be able to check for this easily enough by simply unplugging the transmission and checking out the connectors. This wouldn't be picked up by a cursory visual inspection, and I certainly wouldn't think to unplug the wiring and inspect the interior.
If I understood the summary correctly, this shouldn't be too crazy expensive, though dealers like to charge $$$ for anything with transmission in the description. Lexus lists a part number for the internal wiring harness, 82125J in this diagram: VALVE BODY & OIL STRAINER (ATM). 2007 Lexus LS 460 | Lexus Parts & Accessories Online
The overall process shouldn't be much more than the usual filter and fluid change. After draining the fluid and removing the pan and filter, the valve body is unbolted from the transmission housing and removed. You can then unplug each solenoid and replace the harness. I've removed more ZF valve bodies than I can count and would totally do this at home, but I get not wanting to deal with it or lacking the time. You might try getting a quote at a transmission specialist, but most indy places probably don't open transmissions or have no idea what they're doing inside of them. If you do tackle this yourself it's a good idea to wear a grounding strap to prevent electrostatic discharge (ESD) into the valve body; they're relatively voltage-sensitive and definitely expensive to rebuild or replace.
You might be able to check for this easily enough by simply unplugging the transmission and checking out the connectors. This wouldn't be picked up by a cursory visual inspection, and I certainly wouldn't think to unplug the wiring and inspect the interior.
If I understood the summary correctly, this shouldn't be too crazy expensive, though dealers like to charge $$$ for anything with transmission in the description. Lexus lists a part number for the internal wiring harness, 82125J in this diagram: VALVE BODY & OIL STRAINER (ATM). 2007 Lexus LS 460 | Lexus Parts & Accessories Online
The overall process shouldn't be much more than the usual filter and fluid change. After draining the fluid and removing the pan and filter, the valve body is unbolted from the transmission housing and removed. You can then unplug each solenoid and replace the harness. I've removed more ZF valve bodies than I can count and would totally do this at home, but I get not wanting to deal with it or lacking the time. You might try getting a quote at a transmission specialist, but most indy places probably don't open transmissions or have no idea what they're doing inside of them. If you do tackle this yourself it's a good idea to wear a grounding strap to prevent electrostatic discharge (ESD) into the valve body; they're relatively voltage-sensitive and definitely expensive to rebuild or replace.
#19
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You said in the first post that it always does it when going over 15 so it should be easy to replicate. That stuff on Facebook sounds a little like hysteria to me.
#20
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
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Personally, I respectfully consider many member's posts and experience. But I also know that "eyes on" from a qualified mechanic is more likely to be effective. Talking to service manager isn't the same as a mechanics inspection and troubleshooting.
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rowyd1983 (01-15-23)
#21
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I don't think that most, if any, of these are intentionally malicious. More likely the issue is that many shops now operate on flat rate so there's a tendency to rush to resolution as quickly as possible. Techs want a code they can read from a control module that indicates a specific part that should be replaced. If you're bringing something that's outside of their normal workflow you often get quoted a FU price so that you'll just go away.
Between Techstream and my Autel scanner I can read any of the modules, and with the J2534 adapter I can even reflash ECUs with software updates. I can run through a service manual's troubleshooting procedures as thoroughly as I like, and I know the quality of the work that's done. It's good that some people have shops they can work with, and call me jaded, but I just don't have much faith in either independent or dealership repair shops. I don't look forward to the day when I no longer have the energy or ability to do my own work.
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trogdor113 (12-31-22)
#23
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The funny part about that recall was all they would do was to "disable" the block htr not replace it. apparently they ran out of the correct htr at the dealer and put a round body into an oblong hole and the airspace around the end would overheat the cord and possibly start a fire.
#24
Driver
Thread Starter
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The service manager at this particular dealership was previously a master tech at Lexus. I agree completely with the Post about not being satisfied with the service of dealerships or ind. shops! If it’s out of their comfort zone, they push back on it!
#25
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Was it difficult to get the files from TIS ? I tried to get a dealer to update my TCU and get the TSB done for the battery draining on my 2013 460 and they told me both were unavailable. Also there was a recall on block heaters that I got from lexus Canada that affected many models, I was told it would take 4 hrs to complete......on a slip in dry heater lol. I didn't have it done because I keep my car garaged.
The funny part about that recall was all they would do was to "disable" the block htr not replace it. apparently they ran out of the correct htr at the dealer and put a round body into an oblong hole and the airspace around the end would overheat the cord and possibly start a fire.
The funny part about that recall was all they would do was to "disable" the block htr not replace it. apparently they ran out of the correct htr at the dealer and put a round body into an oblong hole and the airspace around the end would overheat the cord and possibly start a fire.
The standard caveats about automotive programming apply: maintain voltage at 13V+ and make sure you're using a quality interface. I wouldn't use a generic Chinese clone for this task; either the official Techstream Lite interface from Drew Technologies or a well-known brand's J2534 interface. It's also best practice to use a power supply, not a battery charger, when flashing. People do get away without doing this, but it's a gamble I wouldn't take. In my case I have an Iota DLS 75A supply rated for 75 amps continuous duty. I also prefer the J2534 interface because it's an industry standard and can be used with multiple brands; I can also troubleshoot and flash our Ford with the same setup.
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Gerf (12-31-22)
#27
Intermediate
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Lmao. FWIW, Couple of the guys in this thread are…ummm much more than keyboard warriors, giving their opinion.
Back on topic, I had my tranny serviced recently by my Indy, & I ended up with intermittent non responsive tranny while accelerating. While accelerating, my tach & accelerating would stall, while engine revving when pushing gas pedal!
Took it back to my Indy, & explained in detail, & he couldn’t replicate problem. He added another quart of fluid & problem solved!
I’m no mechanic by any means, but I’m leaning towards low tranny fluid. I hope that’s the case. If not, your next solution is a rebuild or tyranny swap.
Back on topic, I had my tranny serviced recently by my Indy, & I ended up with intermittent non responsive tranny while accelerating. While accelerating, my tach & accelerating would stall, while engine revving when pushing gas pedal!
Took it back to my Indy, & explained in detail, & he couldn’t replicate problem. He added another quart of fluid & problem solved!
I’m no mechanic by any means, but I’m leaning towards low tranny fluid. I hope that’s the case. If not, your next solution is a rebuild or tyranny swap.
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rowyd1983 (01-15-23)
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XF40FSPORT (01-01-23)
#29
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After a transmission filter and fluid change at AAMCO i was having the same issue. I brought the car back they checked it and stated fluid was 1.5 quarts low. They added the fluid and car is back to normal.