99rs

New one on the right; old one on the left.




They go in these locations.








Repeat on the other side.

99rs

I’m also doing all fluids in the car. For the front diff it’s easy to get to the fill plug with nothing in the way. I still had to go over top of the sway bar and subframe though. I also pulled off the little plastic wiring protector but that’s only because I didn’t want to break it.

You can see the end of the Allen bit at the red arrow location.



And the wrench at the front of the engine.


The goobers before me mixed the fill and drain plugs. They had the magnet on the fill side and the fill plug on the drain side.


While I was in the area I changed the crank seal.


Crank pulley bolt wasn’t too bad on this car.


Old one wasn’t leaking.

99rs

To drive it in I used a flat tool and the pulley bolt.






To tighten the pulley bolt I used a 2JZ crank pulley holder tool and gypsy’d something up to hold it. It worked but did bend the tool bolts. I had the breaker bar resting on the ground.




Back to the valley plate. Now begin to start cleaning this area very well. I just placed a bolt where the little metal tube is supposed to go (the bolt with the #10 on it).

99rs

Get all of this debris out.


Before the plate can go in have to put this bastard of a tube in. I admit the new one does look a lot more shiny.




The new rubber grommets you should definitely buy though. The cone shaped one is for the back of the A/O separator.




My hole in the back was quite well worn out.

99rs

I test fitted the plate a few times and thought I had it bang on. Dan25man even warned to make sure that the o-rings aren’t curled…..just read to the end to see what happened.

In Canada this one single tube is $180. You guys in the US have it lucky with your part prices.


I put the pipe in first, then I pushed the plate on. DO NOT do it this way!!!! Put the tube into the plate, then put both in as a single unit.



I made a little template you can see on the right.


…I’m an over-applier. “Thin coat” means nothing to me….but truthfully there are reliefs cut out in the plate itself.


And done. Everything torqued to spec. At this point I let it cure for 72 hours and worked on the front brakes and rear bumper brackets. I’ll get to showing those a touch later.


Here you can see the cross over pipe seated into the water pump housing.

99rs

Next up was bolting the high pressure fuel pumps back in.


I bought all new rubber lines at the back. Probably wasn’t necessary but they were cheap enough.




I bought new low pressure fuel injector harnesses. Not because I needed them but buying these was cheaper than buying 2 new gray clips. Don’t know how that makes sense but whatever I guess.


The clips in question.

99rs

Next up I tested the knock sensors. All read close to 0.2 Mohms. They’re all the same so you can put these in any location. They’re not calibrated to any location on the engine.




New HP fuel pump gaskets.


The lobe is worn quite a bit.


New oil filler o-ring.



With the valve covers complete I moved onto the low pressure fuel rail and intake valve cleaning.

99rs

I sprayed the left one off a little bit.


Intake valves really aren’t too bad.




I used these things…they were useless.


Maybe a little better but not much. Yes I know about the walnut blasting but it wasn’t worth it for how good these looked.





I sprayed the cleaner onto one of the injectors and it cleaned up nice.


This was the new harness.

99rs

The 4 o-rings and spacers were a lot of money for some reason. The cushion is directional with the ridge facing up.





I use oil to lube up the o-rings; you can use o-ring grease or whatever you’re comfortable with. Do not go in dry.



Tighten the rails to 15 ft-lbs.



At the back of the low pressure fuel line return there is this hose. It’s really easy to do it right now so get it on proper.


Back to the valve covers these protectors have rubber grommet washers. Might as well replace them as they are indeed a sealing surface.

99rs

Things are starting to go back together.




Next up was the high pressure supply pipe for each side. There are 4 sealing items on each end.






Old and new.

99rs

These were tough to get in with the tools I had but managed to get it to work.


Torque the castle nut to 22 ft-lbs.


Use the crow foot sockets.




I got a new line with orange ends on it. Probably not required though.


That same rubber line from few pictures up. I know it doesn’t look hard to get to but those clamps don’t fit tools very well.

99rs

Put the high pressure fuel pump regulators on with those weird triangle washers.


I don’t know if the part numbers were superseded but almost every new hose I received had a protector sheath on it whereas the originals didn’t.



Old on the left. New on the right.




Driver side.



Next up I decided to tackle the broken fuel injector clips.

99rs

Like I mentioned earlier only the black coloured plugs broke; the grays were fine but I changed them anyways.


New plugs.


I also noticed the wires were starting to crack as well. I’ll say it again, I’m disappointed with this vintage of Toyota. The golden age of the 90’s and early 2000’s quality just isn’t there anymore.



I tried a few things to fix the wiring. None of the wires were broken but only the shielding was cracked. Here I tried to shrink wrap but then it wouldn’t fit into the new plug.


I eventually just settled on electrical tape.

99rs

Followed up by some TESA tape.


And then some high heat electrical tape. It’s definitely not pretty.


New radiator came in-in the mean time in the background.


All 8 done.




The carnage.

99rs

Next up was the air oil separator. Truthfully this isn’t required to buy new. You don’t need to clean it. It’s going to get oily the first time you drive the car…hence the name. Oil will always drain back into the top of the crank area.


The PCV valve on the end of it should definitely be changed though.


Lube up the ends before going in.




Prior to putting the separator in don’t forget to put this foam piece under the wiring harness….ask me how I know.