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2010 LS460 AWD Valley Pan Coolant Leak Part Numbers & Service Manual

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Old 03-13-24, 08:44 PM
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Here I broke apart the old separator. There is no way you can “clean it very well” with all the passages in here. Again, clean the outside, change the PCV, and call it good.










Note put the fuel rail pressure sensor in prior to the oil separator. I only had deep sockets so I had to remove the separator again. I had 2 gaskets in the picture but did indeed only use 1.





Old 03-13-24, 08:44 PM
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I initially had the taper facing the rail side but it didn’t crush nicely. So I threw this crush washer away and the second time I flipped it around.

The failed attempt.


The correct way.






You can easily slip the separator underneath the sensor.



Next up are the engine foams. Do not buy these. I didn’t realize what they were in the parts diagrams. I bought them since they were all relatively cheap.


Old 03-13-24, 08:46 PM
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Clean up the high pressure fuel cross over pipe a little bit.


Just some light scotch pad for literally a few seconds.


Use the crow foot again to tighten to spec.




Foams are on and fit nicely.


Next up is the intake manifold.
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Clean the surfaces really well. It goes without saying.




All clean but I ran out of surfaces in the garage..and didn’t want to put it on the floor.




New upper and lower dipstick o-rings.


New breather lines.


Old 03-13-24, 08:47 PM
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I bought every new coolant hose I could see.


I did a ghetto heater core flush. First with low pressure air and then with water and then with air again. Make sure to not leave plain water in there too long. I’m not sure if there are any non-aluminium parts in the core.





My coolant temp sensor was mangled a little bit but still works.


New Aisin water pump with metal gasket.




Old 03-13-24, 08:48 PM
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The old water pump looked bad but was very tight. It did not need to be replaced. I still replaced it.



New gasket.


Bolted on.




I did buy a new thermostat/housing but it was damaged in shipping. I didn’t want to risk it so I put the old one back on. Look at the chip on the right side in the picture.



Clean up the hose surfaces a little bit.


New gasket.


I used a strap wrench to hold the pulley.
Old 03-13-24, 08:49 PM
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New gaskets for coolant passages.


I had to cut this hose down a little bit by a centimeter or 2. Don’t know why it didn’t fit.


Can see it just to the left of the throttle body.



At this point I decided to change all the fluids in the 2 differentials, transfer case, and the transmission.

First up I bought all new drain and fill plugs.


Here are some with short and long magnets.




Sadly the new ones didn’t come with the oil type sticker so I re-used the originals in those instances.
Old 03-13-24, 08:50 PM
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Front diff was the trickiest. It’s almost like this AWD system is an afterthought.



This is the little wiring protector I had to pull off to fit my tools.


You can see the fill plug just to the right of the harness.




The below is the transfer case drain plug. The goobers before me appear to have put in engine oil viscosity type of fluid. That’s what I’m trying to show in the 2 pictures below but it didn’t really come through.




New plugs.


All new gaskets.
Old 03-13-24, 08:52 PM
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I only managed to buy 3 out of the 4 transmission cooler hoses. Couldn’t find the part number for the other one.






Original still looked okay.


New one installed. This was a PITA. Don’t do it.


The oil filter housing has 2 o-rings that are easy to get to when everything is apart.


This was very hard to clean. I couldn’t get the black stuff fully off with scotch pads. I didn’t want to use sand paper. To tell you the truth even the scotch pads are probably too harsh.
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Got new pulleys. These were much more expensive than I would have thought.





I bought a bunch of hoses on top. You don’t need any of these. I think they were all under $10 or something like that.










Old 03-13-24, 08:54 PM
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Those breather hoses emerge to the airbox.




My hoses were all starting to crack. Again my car is a 2010 year model and I pulled these off in the fall of 2023. 140k kms on the engine (not miles).



I proceeded to fix up the deteriorating wire harness electrical tape.


I used more of the TESA tape.


Here is the part number for that wire harness holder near the water pump area. 82817-50J80
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Next up was to clean the throttle body.




Dealer sold me this. It’s probably just brake cleaner.


It did the job.


Old 03-13-24, 08:56 PM
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Everything bolted on. I wasn’t sure if that line on the left went over or under the coolant passage pipe.


That clamp is tough to get if the throttle body is bolted on.


Ended up with quite a few old gaskets and hoses.


Getting there.


Don’t forget this foam piece under the direct injection modules.


New heater core coolant hoses.


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New fuel return hose.


I cleaned each plug with a tooth brush and contact cleaner.


My fuse box cover gaskets were all deteriorating.





Continuing the breaking theme I unfortunately snapped the throttle body plug. This one sucked to break as I didn’t have a spare.






I zip tied it to the harness for now until I source one.
Old 03-13-24, 08:57 PM
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When I was putting the wire harness back around the AC and alternator area this is where those spare plugs from the low pressure fuel harness came in handy.



All are changed now.


I also found a suitable one for the power harness cable running to the battery area. Mine was broken.



Now for the last little bits in the radiator area.


I bought new transmission cooler lines.






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