Powder Coated Brembo Calipers
#16
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
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Glad that you have Techstream version 17.x and a quality VCI connector. When I conducted the "Actuator has been removed" procedure, I faithfully followed every step on the computer screen, except that I dry-ran the bleeding of the two front brake lines (because I had already done it manually). So, if the computer screen instructs you to wait 2 minutes, do as instructed, even though the waiting may not seem to be important or meaningful. Having sufficient power supply is essential for completing this bleeding process. If you can, attach a charger to your battery that can provide up to 20A power current while you bleed the brakes. Do not open or close your car doors during the bleeding process. Regarding your question if you really need to complete the "Actuator has been removed" bleeding procedure, as a perfectionist, if I were you, I'd do it by the book, which is to complete the "Actuator has been removed" bleeding procedure. Lexus shop manual says that this is the method to purge out the air in the accumulator assembly after the brake actuator is removed or change (brake fluid ran dry in your case). If you would like to drive around after you completed "Usual air bleeding", I'd suggest that you do a couple of zero downs and individually bleed RR line before driving around as a temporary solution. To do so, after each zero down, use the "Usual air bleeding" procedure to bleed RR line (select the single brake line bleeding option to bleed RR line only), until you don't see any air bubbles coming out RR line. In the "Actuator has been removed" bleeding procedure, bleeding RR line also bleeds the actuator. The hope here is that by doing a couple of individual RR line bleedings after zero downs, you would purge out most of the air from the brake actuator. Please thoroughly test out your brakes before taking the car on the road. Again, this is only a temporary solution.
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Glad that you have Techstream version 17.x and a quality VCI connector. When I conducted the "Actuator has been removed" procedure, I faithfully followed every step on the computer screen, except that I dry-ran the bleeding of the two front brake lines (because I had already done it manually). So, if the computer screen instructs you to wait 2 minutes, do as instructed, even though the waiting may not seem to be important or meaningful. Having sufficient power supply is essential for completing this bleeding process. If you can, attach a charger to your battery that can provide up to 20A power current while you bleed the brakes. Do not open or close your car doors during the bleeding process. Regarding your question if you really need to complete the "Actuator has been removed" bleeding procedure, as a perfectionist, if I were you, I'd do it by the book, which is to complete the "Actuator has been removed" bleeding procedure. Lexus shop manual says that this is the method to purge out the air in the accumulator assembly after the brake actuator is removed or change (brake fluid ran dry in your case). If you would like to drive around after you completed "Usual air bleeding", I'd suggest that you do a couple of zero downs and individually bleed RR line before driving around as a temporary solution. To do so, after each zero down, use the "Usual air bleeding" procedure to bleed RR line (select the single brake line bleeding option to bleed RR line only), until you don't see any air bubbles coming out RR line. In the "Actuator has been removed" bleeding procedure, bleeding RR line also bleeds the actuator. The hope here is that by doing a couple of individual RR line bleedings after zero downs, you would purge out most of the air from the brake actuator. Please thoroughly test out your brakes before taking the car on the road. Again, this is only a temporary solution.
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btw I did follow a separate tutorial to bleed the brakes and it was much easier ( https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...rake-bleed.pdf )
I followed steps 14 till the end and zeroed down multiple times and bled air - car drives perfect - the small “thud” sound from actuator every time I used to engage the brake is now gone - brakes feel 85% good but I have a small “squak/bark” noise - I’m sure it’s air in actuator. Henceforth I will re-try bleed the RR & RL
btw thanks for the consistent advice and push to do it by book -
#17
Instructor
iTrader: (14)
Hey guys,
I recently powder coated all 4 calipers and they look amazing 🤩 - the calipers had to be removed and left for a week - in the process the vehicle lost all the brake fluid..
few questions -
1- is this bad for no brake fluid in the reservoir or lines? Car has been off and on jack stands and never started since
2- I’ve bought replacement banjo copper bolt gaskets - do I need two up from on either side of banjo bolts? They are brembo 6 pistons up front and single dual piston rears
3- can i ceramic coat the calipers after applying the brembo decal stickers?
4- what’s the process on tech stream to bleed the fluid? As usual air bleed or another option?
I will throw up some photos soon - they make this car look good .. guess the color lol many thanks again
I recently powder coated all 4 calipers and they look amazing 🤩 - the calipers had to be removed and left for a week - in the process the vehicle lost all the brake fluid..
few questions -
1- is this bad for no brake fluid in the reservoir or lines? Car has been off and on jack stands and never started since
2- I’ve bought replacement banjo copper bolt gaskets - do I need two up from on either side of banjo bolts? They are brembo 6 pistons up front and single dual piston rears
3- can i ceramic coat the calipers after applying the brembo decal stickers?
4- what’s the process on tech stream to bleed the fluid? As usual air bleed or another option?
I will throw up some photos soon - they make this car look good .. guess the color lol many thanks again
Those Brembo caliper look nice....quick question were they wider than the original stock (non Brembo) 460 calipers?Did you notice a size difference width wise? I was looking to build some BBS's and noticed the face of the wheel touches the stock caliper so I need another 10mm and really don't want to run a spacer if I don't have to.
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