95 LS400 Starter dead....DIY replacement in progress
#31
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What engineering feature or problem might Lexus (Toyota) use to explain sticking the starter down in the engine under the intake manifold please? In the "old days" starter removal was so simple. Thanks.
#35
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I'm not sure how I missed this thread when doing research before starting on my 95. I too got frustrated by the No. 1 (lower) EGR pipe and ended up not even taking out the starter. Yes, I decided I didn't need to hold the starter in my hand if all I was doing was replacing the contacts and plunger which I bought (the "kit") from Adam at Nations Auto Electric: http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html.
I used a brush and vacuum to clean out the dust. To get better access to the solenoid to replace the contacts, I removed the motor assembly. I did a stupid thing and turned it upside down while cleaning and let the armature fall out. The brushes are spring loaded so I couldn't get the armature back in. I didn't feel comfortable removing the commutator end so I took it to a place that rebuilds starters. They cleaned the armature with emery cloth on a lathe and didn't see anything wrong with the brushes so I felt good about starter motor before reattaching it. Best of all, they did it for free!! If you live in the metro Phoenix area, go to Northline Rebuilders, they'll take care of you.
It's been a month now and no problems.
Here is a picture with the motor removed from the starter assembly:
I used a brush and vacuum to clean out the dust. To get better access to the solenoid to replace the contacts, I removed the motor assembly. I did a stupid thing and turned it upside down while cleaning and let the armature fall out. The brushes are spring loaded so I couldn't get the armature back in. I didn't feel comfortable removing the commutator end so I took it to a place that rebuilds starters. They cleaned the armature with emery cloth on a lathe and didn't see anything wrong with the brushes so I felt good about starter motor before reattaching it. Best of all, they did it for free!! If you live in the metro Phoenix area, go to Northline Rebuilders, they'll take care of you.
It's been a month now and no problems.
Here is a picture with the motor removed from the starter assembly:
Last edited by AzHotLS; 01-24-09 at 12:17 PM.
#37
Lexus Test Driver
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I originally wanted to go this route and replace the worn contacts on the starter, but upon closer analysis and having the new contacts in the old starter, it still wasn't turning. Turns out the bearing on the spring loaded arm was sticking and worn out.
But yes, this job was a PITA.
But yes, this job was a PITA.
#38
Lead Lap
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I intially thought about replacing the contacts, but wasn't comfortable with the other parts working correctly. Since I was in there I just decided its better to change out the whole unit. Boy do I miss my '95
#39
Pole Position
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I don't necessarily recommend not removing the starter like what I did (didn't), I just wanted to share my experience and that it is an option. Since the starter went straight from no problems to click click, it had to be the contacts alone. Because I took the motor assy to a shop and got their blessing, I did feel comfortable that my efforts wouldn't be wasted once I got it all back together. Boy do I NOT miss my '90, The 95 is a definate upgrade!
#41
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I did but I chewed up the lower set when trying to install the lower manifold and fuel rail. Being late at night on the weekend, another tough choice to make...... reuse the original set. I did use the new uppers. The reason I chewed up the lower is because of a bracket (pointed out in the pic below) that extends forward from the coolant bridge. In hindsight, I probably should have removed the bolt holding it in place. I loosened it and bent it back as far as I could, as much as the wire harness would allow. The fuel return pipe also needed to be loosened towards the drivers side (I did get that bolt off).
Once out of the way, the lower manifold was able to be put back into place.
This bordered being hack job on my part, but it was the best I could do and so far no ill effects. As you can see I had removed the bolt holding the coolant bridge in place before I realized I couldn't remove it because of the lower EGR pipe. This created another concern as debris could have gotten in there preventing a good seal when bolting it back down.
Once out of the way, the lower manifold was able to be put back into place.
This bordered being hack job on my part, but it was the best I could do and so far no ill effects. As you can see I had removed the bolt holding the coolant bridge in place before I realized I couldn't remove it because of the lower EGR pipe. This created another concern as debris could have gotten in there preventing a good seal when bolting it back down.
Last edited by AzHotLS; 01-26-09 at 08:37 PM.
#42
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I don't necessarily recommend not removing the starter like what I did (didn't), I just wanted to share my experience and that it is an option. Since the starter went straight from no problems to click click, it had to be the contacts alone. Because I took the motor assy to a shop and got their blessing, I did feel comfortable that my efforts wouldn't be wasted once I got it all back together. Boy do I NOT miss my '90, The 95 is a definate upgrade!
#43
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so what did you end up doing about the injector clips that broke off?? Because i swear to god almost every clip i touched broke.
Also im in the process of taking my passenger side cat off but i cant get that third bolt off
Howd you go about that?
Also im in the process of taking my passenger side cat off but i cant get that third bolt off
Howd you go about that?
#45
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I used two extension bars and got it from behind. Basically I went up underneath the right front passenger side and was able to see the bolt. I don't think there is any other way.