Suspension Problem LX470 1998
#16
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Is the flap on the throttle body clean? After a while, it gets gummed up w/ sticky carbon and the flap starts to stick. There's a motor that opens the flap, and if it sticks enough, the motor won't be able to open it (fuel starvation) and it'll throw a throttle body code. Dealer will diagnose it as a "bad TB" and charge $1500 to replace it. In reality, $3 of carb cleaner, a small stainless brush, and rag will clean it. Don't spray the carb cleaner directly onto the flap. Spray it on the rag and rub. You can use the brush to remove stubborn carbon deposits. Remember the TB sensor is at 12 o'clock, so don't brush that. You can push the spring-loaded flap in (either top or bottom to clean both halves) as long as the key is out of the ignition.
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Jim,
Thanks, I will try this. I have been out of town sorry for the late response. If this does not work what else could it be. I am going this week to PEP Boys and see if they will test it for me. I forgot to mention that when I push on the gas hard the LX quits shaking and runs normal. At idle the car shakes and almost quits running.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks, I will try this. I have been out of town sorry for the late response. If this does not work what else could it be. I am going this week to PEP Boys and see if they will test it for me. I forgot to mention that when I push on the gas hard the LX quits shaking and runs normal. At idle the car shakes and almost quits running.
Thanks for the help!
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There have been many fuel injector plugging problems with the 'ethanol' in fuels. My son works at 'The LuxoDealer' in Central Va- MBZ/BMW/Volvo/Lincoln--they now check alcohol content in fuel tanks, have found some over 20%. One NEW 12cyl MBZ had fried all the cat convertors due to injector plugging--not a warranty covered thing--OVER $8K in cost.
Run a can or two of BG-44 fuel system cleaner through the tank--if not corrected, go to indie shop for fuel system cleaning with BG-44--a stronger version that connects to fuel line and feeds very concentrated cleaner to the injectors (+/- $130). If that doesn't clean the injectors,SOL.
Run a can or two of BG-44 fuel system cleaner through the tank--if not corrected, go to indie shop for fuel system cleaning with BG-44--a stronger version that connects to fuel line and feeds very concentrated cleaner to the injectors (+/- $130). If that doesn't clean the injectors,SOL.
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Many drivers are finding their vehicle engines are running much rougher,etc. Most of the time it is due to poor fuel quality--the 'cheap stuff' has only the legal minimum of detergency--and its not nearly enough to keep the injectors, intake valves, and combusion chambers clean, especially now with ethanol added to many fuels.
At the premo Dealer where my son works (MBZ/BMW/Volvo/Lincoln) they now routinely clean the EGR systems on every vehicle during the periodic service, finding them all partially/mostly plugged--due to ethanol? just started since ethanol has been added to the fuels. THey are also having to clean the throttle bodies if anything other than air goes through them- crankcase ventilation fumes are now making lots of gum/varnish and fouling the critical passages, causing driveability problems,rough idle, stalling at stop lights etc. FUEL RELATED problems, not covered by warranty.
Chnge your oil evry 3-5K miles depending on how you drive. Buy fuel advertised as 'clean-up', or 'drive clean' etc or 'top tier' those producte have beet tested and proven to the FTC to do just that--they have 3-5 times the legal minimum of detergency and work 'as advertised.'
At the premo Dealer where my son works (MBZ/BMW/Volvo/Lincoln) they now routinely clean the EGR systems on every vehicle during the periodic service, finding them all partially/mostly plugged--due to ethanol? just started since ethanol has been added to the fuels. THey are also having to clean the throttle bodies if anything other than air goes through them- crankcase ventilation fumes are now making lots of gum/varnish and fouling the critical passages, causing driveability problems,rough idle, stalling at stop lights etc. FUEL RELATED problems, not covered by warranty.
Chnge your oil evry 3-5K miles depending on how you drive. Buy fuel advertised as 'clean-up', or 'drive clean' etc or 'top tier' those producte have beet tested and proven to the FTC to do just that--they have 3-5 times the legal minimum of detergency and work 'as advertised.'
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I had the same problem with my throttle body and it cost me $1500 for a new one. I wish I had known about this site a year ago.
Now i'm having the same problem as others with the hight control.The dealer wants $7000 to change out the pumps accumulaters & acuaters. WHAT TO DO is there a cheeper way out?
Now i'm having the same problem as others with the hight control.The dealer wants $7000 to change out the pumps accumulaters & acuaters. WHAT TO DO is there a cheeper way out?
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I am having two problems one is when I stop at a drive through the car (2000 LX 470) the car raises and lowers back to N. The lady at the drive through get a charge out of it but I don't. It only happens sometimes. The other problem and my biggest concern in the VSC TRAC, VSC OFF and the engine light just came on and the car acts like it is starving for fuel at idle. When I step on it it smooths out until I let off the gas. Does anyone have a clue?
just got rid of my land cruiser that had 325,000 miles and plan on taking my LX there too [at 210k now]..this vehicle is still too nice to get ride of amazingly enough...
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