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Grill Guard or No Grill Guard?

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Old 09-24-06, 09:31 AM
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jdmlx470
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Default Grill Guard or No Grill Guard?

Would any of you members put a grill guard on your 100 series?

If yes, post a picture of the guard...

Still debating if I should or not.

thanks.
Old 09-24-06, 08:47 PM
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V8_Fan
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I would go for something substantial like an ARB bullbar/sahara bar. I went w/ the ARB sahara bar. The ARB & TJM (another reputable maker in Australia) bars are specifically designed to protect the vehicle against impact against mediums-sized animals (kangaroos, emus, etc.). It's all steel, replaces the stock bumper/aluminum & foam impact beam and is airbag compatible (the steel bars are much stronger than aluminum bars). In many cases, the grille guard (I assume you mean "brush guard") causes more damage by bending into the hood, like in a low-speed fender-bender. I have heard some cases, though, where it was sufficient to protect the front end from damage from deer, but this depends on the speed and size of the animal.
Old 09-25-06, 12:13 AM
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valgs350
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Go with the ARB!

It is EXPENSIVE but in the long run might pay it self-off.

Like Jim said, Brush Guards might not protect has well.
Attached Thumbnails Grill Guard or No Grill Guard?-dsc01733.jpg  

Last edited by valgs350; 09-25-06 at 12:18 AM.
Old 09-25-06, 04:36 AM
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aedgington
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A lot of the answer depends on whether you're looking for something functional or some jewelry for your ride. We had a Manik on our Land Cruiser (for looks), and we decided to leave the LX bare. I actually am hoping to get an ARB w/ a bull bar (like Jim_Chow's pictured above) for some urban armor... just haven't won that argument with the wife yet.
Old 09-25-06, 07:38 AM
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V8_Fan
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Originally Posted by aedgington
[snip] I actually am hoping to get an ARB w/ a bull bar (like Jim_Chow's pictured above) for some urban armor... just haven't won that argument with the wife yet.
Since I used to live in LA, body armor was a must...I went w/ ARB winchbar, Kaymar rear bar, custom sliders that protrude beyond the tires (rear bar and sliders welded to the chassis). On my newer LX, I went w/ the ARB sahara bar (because they don't make a bullbar for the LX [Val678 had to have it custom modified to fit] and weight considerations) plus a Kaymar rear bar. The rear bar is a huge piece of metal...maybe 140 lbs of 1/4" and 3/16" plate steel. It's far heavier than the ARB front bar and protrudes maybe 2" behind the rear crossmember. Anyone who runs into this mounted on a my 3-ton LX is going to suffer SUBSTANTIAL front end damage. It's also good if your wife or someone else backs into something, like a wall or pole. I can't tell you how many vehicles I've seen with a deep dent in the corner of the plastic OEM bumper.
Old 09-25-06, 06:23 PM
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I went w/ the ARB sahara bar (because they don't make a bullbar for the LX [Val678 had to have it custom modified to fit
The AHC handles the added weight fine, just don't think it can handle the added weight of a winch.

Ordering the Kaymar rear-bar soon!

Last edited by valgs350; 09-25-06 at 06:26 PM.
Old 09-25-06, 06:42 PM
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Before and After PICS!

The ARB is great for Normal driving and your off-road adventure!

Attached Thumbnails Grill Guard or No Grill Guard?-dsc01671.jpg  

Last edited by valgs350; 09-25-06 at 06:46 PM.
Old 09-25-06, 08:29 PM
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jdmlx470
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thanks everyone for the replies.

I kinda thought about a Jaos guard. but I think a bull guard would look a little nicer. I dont really want it to look so bulky and huge haha.
Old 09-25-06, 08:51 PM
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BobsGX
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I've never liked those front guards on any vehicle. When I see a vehicle with one of those things on the front end, it reminds me of a train locomotive with a huge cow pusher on the front of the locomotive.
Old 09-25-06, 09:09 PM
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V8_Fan
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Originally Posted by VAL678
The AHC handles the added weight fine, just don't think it can handle the added weight of a winch.

Ordering the Kaymar rear-bar soon!
Better buy it fast! When I ordered mine the week after buying my LX earlier this year, Man-a-fre had just sold their last one (a shop in Houston that adds armor plating to LC's for the Middle East bought all of them!), so I placed an order then. FOUR months later, it shows up at my door. It takes 2 months for Kaymar to build it (even if you live in Melbourne, it takes 2 months from what one Aussie told me), then it's 2 months on the boat to LA. The neat thing about the latest Kaymars is instead of the dorky Kaymar stickers they used to put on each rear corner, they now laser etch their name in the front corner of each of the steel side valences. Workmanship is excellent. The only issue I had (minor) is the left side valence doesn't bend outward enough, so I couldn't use the inside holes of that mud flap. The right side valence corner sticks out beyond the body a little, which is how it supposed to be. But realize that every vehicle is different. The body of mine could sit on the frame slightly different than their test model, etc. The bolt holes all lined up exactly. I had to use all those extra gold-colored shims on the front holes only; otherwise, the lines of the cladding and bumper will be way off. You'll see. BTW, I had a honda body shop (the one that did the painting) install the rear bar...only 1 hr labor ($45!!) to remove the old bar and install the new one!

Last edited by V8_Fan; 09-25-06 at 09:14 PM.
Old 09-25-06, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jdmlx470
thanks everyone for the replies.

I kinda thought about a Jaos guard. but I think a bull guard would look a little nicer. I dont really want it to look so bulky and huge haha.
JAOS Vs. ARB

LOOKS COOL!


LOOKS COOL AND PERFORMS!

Last edited by valgs350; 09-25-06 at 10:51 PM.
Old 09-26-06, 04:35 AM
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aedgington
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Jim, what made you pick the Kaymar over the one Slee sells?
Old 09-26-06, 08:47 AM
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A few factors:
1) weight (I'm sure the AHC will support it, but it'll be under more stress, and I lose that much in carrying capacity [capacity of the vehicle is like 1260 lbs, passengers AND gear combined]). Kaymar is somewhere around 120-140 lbs while the slee is probably around 200 lbs.
2) OEM mudflaps don't fit the Slee; only I've seen that will fit are those cheesy looking rectangular types used on tractor trailers.
3) Less rear (vertical) surface area in case of getting rear-ended
4) I like the checker plate on top of the kaymar; I've had a kaymar on my old 4runner for 5 yrs now and like how I can put 1 gal water bottles and gear on it when unloading w/o having to drop the tailgate.
5) More OEM look for the Kaymar, not a "fab shop" look due to the rounded surfaces on the kaymar. Notice I had the checker plate anodized black to match the finish on the OEM running boards.
6) I also like the bumper lights (extra brake/stop/tail lights)...more brake lights is safer, right? :-) These lights are required in Australia if anything (eg, tire carrier) can obscure a rear light even from an angle, so all rear bars made there will have some kind of bumper lights.

I also ruled out the TJM...don't like those plastic caps on the valences. They look cheap. The TJM is the lightest, Slee the heaviest, Kaymar in the middle. The kaymar is also made without pivots, but it's special order only, and I figure if I get the dual pivots and don't use them, I'll at least have the option in the future of adding attachments (tire carrier, etc.) while with the non-pivot, I'm SOL. BTW, I don't rock crawl, so rear clearance for the bumper isn't an issue. I do more expedition touring, offroading on forest roads, etc. The Slee is designed for rock crawling (derivative of the 80 series Slee bumper), hence the lower profile.

A couple of installation notes: I had a body shop install the bar itself (too heavy to lift) while I wired up the lights. If you have a '03+ LX, there is no longer a 6-pin plug in the right side rear corner (under the vehicle) that the Kaymar lighting harness can plug into. Instead, I sacrificed the OEM trailer connector plug (where it plugs to the factory harness) and soldered that to the bare wires of the kaymar harness. I also had to add a 2-to-3 brake converter that converts the interleaved stop light/turning signal into separate brake and turning signals. This sealed box is attached to the inside left of the kaymar w/ double-sided tape. When you lock/unlock your vehicle w/ the remote, the kaymar brake light will flash instead of the turning signal (body's rear turning signals will still flash), but everything else will function normal. If you have an earlier LX/LC (I know for sure the 98-99), there's a 6pin plug you plug the kaymar harness into, then you're done rigging up the bumper lights.

Also, if you tow, you'll have to fabricate a custom trailer socket mount since the OEM one won't fit. I found a lower profile 7-pin trailer socket, but have yet to integrate it due to the lack of a socket mount. The Kaymar is really designed for the Australian-type mounts, which require a much smaller hole (they drill a hole in the lower edge of the bumper and mount the socket directly to it); US sockets are way too large (hole is like 2"), so that's not feasible.

Last edited by V8_Fan; 09-26-06 at 08:59 AM.
Old 09-26-06, 09:17 AM
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1loudLX
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well i took it off as im debating if i should paint it to match the truck or get the ARB. Jim can you send me some detailed pictures of your front end? im just looking for urban armor that will scare the crap out of people in front of me. Currently i have undetectible steel mounts from the bar that stick out my bumper vents and distroy peoples rear bumper when they back into me.


oh and about the Jaos bar, some teacher in my town has it on her LX and it looks terrible. altho i do have to hand it to her, she has some nice reverse lights cut into where the rear reflectors are.

Last edited by 1loudLX; 09-26-06 at 09:26 AM.
Old 09-28-06, 08:21 AM
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jdmlx470
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1loudlx.

what kind of bull bar is that on your grill? i want a little something like that. looks very nice. i think i would go stainless steel or chrome and without those big foglights. haha.


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