LXotic

Guys I need your help,
My LX has reached 60,030 miles
and I think I read somewhere It is very necessary to go to the dealer at 60k
What do I have to get serviced AND HOW MUCH WOULD IT APPROX cost?

Note that I am posting this thread to make sure to know what I am getting serviced

Thanks , Jacob

Clutch470

IDK ask some experts like Jim or 1LOUDLX/PITTBULLLX964

aedgington

Download the service schedule & details here:

http://www.lexus.com/pdf/service/LUVs.pdf

Clutch470

hey like whats the price dude?

V8_Fan

The prices vary from dealer to dealer. My rip-off local dealer does a bunch of unnecessary stuff and charges a bundle...$2.4K!! Scottsdale charges $1.6K. As I had the AHC and brake fluids done 2 months ago and am at 56K mi, I plan to do everything but the ATF replacement (~ $160).

Here's what you do at 60K miles and what you need for DIY:

-lube front drive shaft bushings (grease gun and tube NLGI #2 lithium MP grease, $5)
-lube prop shaft, retorque bolts (same as above, plus 14mm 6 pt socket, swivel extension, torque wrench)
-repack front wheel bearings (brass bar, BFH, 54mm socket, torque wrench, 2 oil seals ($34), two gaskets ($2), two lock washers ($3), MP grease (same as used on driveshaft), snap ring remover, large screwdriver, 17mm deep 6 pt socket w/ long cheater bar to remove calipers, fish scale (optional), pr of tall jackstands, floor jack.
-replace brake fluid (2 qts dot 3 or 4, $12 [for valvoline dot 4 synthetic; dealer uses cheapie dot 3 for half the price], 10mm flare nut wrench, @ 3 ft of 1/4" i.d. pvc tubing, empty bottle to catch the old fluid, turkey baster)
-replace AHC fluid ($30/2 liter jug, 2 jugs if you bleed the height accumulator in additional to the damper globes, so $60. Also need a 10mm flare nut wrench)
-replace engine air filter ($20)
-replace engine coolant (2 gal toyota red @ $17/gal, 4 gal distilled water, so ~ $38)
-replace engine oil/oil filter ($3 OEM filter, $1 gasket, $55 for 2 gal of Mobil 1 0w40 or Delvac 1 5w40 synthetic)
-replace cabin air filters (need 2, $26/pr from densoparts)
-rotate tires (22mm socket, torque wrench, impact wrench [for convenience])
-inspect:
-AHC system
-ball joints and dust covers
-brake lines/hoses
- chacoal canister (CA)
- serpentine belt (should prob be replaced at 60K)
- drive shaft boots
- engine valves (audible test)
- exhaust pipes and mountings
- fuel lines, connections, fuel tank band, vapor vent system
- fuel tank cap gasket (they do this at the AZ smog check)
- rack and pinion assembly
- tranny, t-case, diff oils

Additional stuff (like if you drive in traffic, offroad, etc.)
-inspect chassis nuts/bolts
-replace diff oil (10mm allen socket [front diff], torque wrench, 24mm 6-pt socket for drain & fill plugs, new gaskets (4 @ $.69 ea)
-replace t-case oil (24mm socket, torque wrench, new gaskets (2 @ .89 ea))
-replace tranny fluid (~20 qts incl. fluid in the torque converter...have the dealer do)

If you have the dealer do stuff individually, the ATF is like $160-200, brake fluid $110, AHC fluid ($120-150), front wheel bearing repack ($350), diff/t-cas fluids ($300-350), oil/oil filter ($30-50), cabin air filter ($50 each at dealer [need 2] plus labor).

The two dealers I called do the spark plugs @ $20 each plus labor. The iridium plugs are spec'd to be replaced at 120K mi. If you want to be conservative, do them at 90K, but at 60K, you're wasting half of their life! If you really want to do them at 60K, you can buy them at densoparts for about $10 each.

BTW, when you are rotating tires, you might as well inspect the rear pad & drum shoe thicknesses. The rear rotor comes off in 5 min (just remove caliper mounting bolts and brake hose clip, swing caliper up, pull off rotor). The rear pads tend to last ~55K mi and often wear out before the front pads do.

Jayson

Jim,

You know those "extras" that the Lexus dealer likes to throw in, err "dealer recommended services?" Do you think these are necessary and if so, at mileage on or our LX do you think they should be done?

Complete cooling system service
Complete fuel injection service
Complete transmission service
Complete power steering service

The term "complete" comes from the supplement preferred maintenance guide from Northside Lexus in Houston (where we bought our LX).

Thanks for the recommendations!

1loudLX

55k? right uh jim, you must drive like a grandmother....then again your truck is the roadtripper. Mine last like <25k miles sometimes a lot less.

I had the 60k done at 54k since the truck gets a lot of short trips, stop and go-really-fast. At the 60 they replaced my exhaust manifolds too. Took one tech one night to do. I pulled into the shop, looked at the guy and went, 60k...anyone want it, wait no im making YOU do it. He looks at me and goes, ****...ok fine so i went in and spoke to the service manager and requested that tech work on it. All i can say is, he must have done something for that price lexus charged me, because i havent had too many major problems *runs out to LX and knocks on the wood trim*

LXotic

Guys I thought the LX was a quiet truck..
MY truck has such a high engine noise ...

V8_Fan

It depends on how the rig is driven. The manual specs coolant should be replaced completely (I don't mean drain & refill the radiator only like some shops do) every 30K. The original factory coolant is pre-mixed, which tends to last longer (I bet you could get 60K out of it). The pre-mixed now ('04+) is super-long life (100K) while the mix it yourself toyota red is 30K. Doing the math, price for the SLLC is twice as much, but longevity is 3x longer...a better buy, IMHO. I'm not sure if you have any long-life in your system. I'd probably put in the SLLC and run it 50K mi in case there's any residual LLC in there, then replace w/ SLLC again and go close to 100K.

-Fuel injection service: No way! this is total BS as long as you're using quality gas (I use only chevron 91, shell 91 if I can't get chevron). If you use cheapo, low grade gas, yeah, your injectors might need cleaning eventually. :-) FYI, I used chevron 91 exclusively on my '86 4runner 4-cylinder until 150K mi, then have been running chevron 89 for the last 47K. Injectors have never been cleaned, still runs fine with 20 yrs of age and 197K miles. Changed the fuel filter at 140K mi, didn't notice any difference in performance (so the stock filter after 17 yrs was still in good shape).

-Transmission service: yes, have the ATF exchanged w/ toyota brand. If your vehicle is '04+, it uses Toyota WS, rated at 100K mi. I'd change it at 60K. I have a hard time believing the WS will last 100K; (yeah, I have family members have run normal ATF for 100K, but if you do and then change, deposits built up over time tend to break loose and damage the tranny). If it's older, it'll use either dextron II/III or Type IV. Either way, change at 30K intervals (and I don't mean drain & fill the 3 qts in the pan, I mean all 14 qts). My lexus dealer does an intermediate drain & fill at 15K mi intervals, but I don't think this is necessary; maybe if you tow all the time in 110F temps in the mountains. :-)

-Power steering service: maybe. It gets hot here (105-110F in the summer) and I noticed my factory PS fluid was thick, dark, and smelled burnt. It had never been changed, and even left a residue on the side of the resevoir. I did the turkey baster & suck out w/ pvc tubing method maybe 6x w/ Redline synthetic ATF w/ dextron II. Fluid is nice and red now, but still has a slight burned smell, i think coming from the residue in the resevoir. New resevoir is $125...I might eventually replace it. Anyways, the entire capacity of that PS system is at most 2 qts. Use only ATF w/ dextron II or III (w/ mercon is ok). DO NOT use "power steering fluid." This is merely a cheap quality ATF w/ fewer additives and has caused some toyota PS systems to leak.

You might want to change the serpentine belt every 60K (sooner if it's hot like here; my original belt only lasted 45K mi). Also if it's hot, keep an eye on the radiator hose condition. If they start getting soft, change them, or you'll be hosed! :-)

Diff fluids: put in the synthetic and run it at least 40K mi. If you use dino, it only lasts 30K mi max. I just bought a 5 gal pail of Mobil 1 delvac 75w90 synthetic gear oil for my diffs & t-case. Here in AZ, I need something that can take the heat. BTW, it's cheaper if you buy the pail ($6.50/qt vs $9-10/qt in the quart sized bottles).

ACTIV

I pay $1000.00 +tax for my 60k miles service ( almost everything was done) at sterling lexus here in southwest houston. i will get a list what they done and post it