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Underneath the vehicle, you'll see the parking brake cable enter the back side of the drums at the rear axle. Trace this cable forward and you'll see a nut where the slack can be adjusted.
I had the same problem after I got my brakes done at the 'stealer' last year, took it back in and they said it was fine - BS!
Did my own brakes with the help of a buddy on another forum a few weeks ago, and the only adjustment I found is a type of turn-buckle on the aircraft-cable actuation rigging in front of the spare tire.
As you're on your back under the truck, un-tighten the nut on the Right side up the threaded shaft, and tighten the turn-buckle from the left to the right. Lock it in place by re-tightening the nut on the Right side.
I adjusted this by about 10 180degree turns, and I acheived an effective hand-brake actuation height of approx. 4-5 clicks below where it had been.
I didn't care to tighten the cable any further than that, as it seemed to be turning the steel cable also, though the brake's effectiveness has increased significantly.
I had the same problem after I got my brakes done at the 'stealer' last year, took it back in and they said it was fine - BS!
Did my own brakes with the help of a buddy on another forum a few weeks ago, and the only adjustment I found is a type of turn-buckle on the aircraft-cable actuation rigging in front of the spare tire.
As you're on your back under the truck, un-tighten the nut on the Right side up the threaded shaft, and tighten the turn-buckle from the left to the right. Lock it in place by re-tightening the nut on the Right side.
I adjusted this by about 10 180degree turns, and I acheived an effective hand-brake actuation height of approx. 4-5 clicks below where it had been.
I didn't care to tighten the cable any further than that, as it seemed to be turning the steel cable also, though the brake's effectiveness has increased significantly.
YMMV,
-LX Pilot
When you remove the drum/rear rotor, if the e-brake is still grabbing and the handle is released, there's usually a little wheel thing in there you can manipulate w/ a screw driver to release tension on the e-brake. If your e-brake was working fine before the brake job and not after, I suspect the tech forgot to readjust the wheel thing when putting it all together again?
The bolt that goes into the turnbuckle on the passenger side parking brake cable snapped. Got a new one. Found a posting that explains how to adjust the parking brake shoes (https://www.2carpros.com/questions/t...ver-adjustment ) . The star wheel portion is fine. But the Bell Crank is a problem. It says to remove the Bell Crank springs and then pull on the Bell Crank until resistance. Then adjust the screw at the end of the Bell Crank to rest on the dust shield. I screwed "in" the stop to the max and there is still about half-inch of slack. Is the internal spring (47616-60020) or in Tundra it is called a "transfer cable" shown in the drawing adjustable?