Max707

I've never crawled under or used my spare. Is it the same wheel lock used on the spare that is used on the other wheels? Is there only one wheel lock?

V8_Fan

The spare doesn't have a lock per se. It's the device that holds the spare to the bottom of the frame that has the lock. Toyota has classically used a "hook" end whereby you slide the rod through the hole in the bumper and the hook engages a receptable. You then turn the rod to lower the spare. The LX has a "key" on the end of the rod instead of a hook. That key is the same pattern as the key socket you use to remove a wheel lock lugnut.

Max707

Thanks, its always nice to know before you have the need to know.

aedgington

What we REALLY need to do is figure out the foolproof argument for convincing our wives that a swing out tire carrier and long range fuel tank in the old spare's cavity is the way to go.

V8_Fan

The main reason why I have a swing-out carrier on my old 4runner is to make the 5-tire rotation much simpler. Problem is, wife has a hard time latching the mechanism, hates it. The 4runner has a power rear window, so she doesn't have to open the carrier for most things. OTOH, on the LX, you can't open the top hatch if there's a close tire carrier, plus I wouldn't be able to load my vehicle w/ the garage door closed. Right now, I have it parked so I can open the clamshell and load the vehicle w/o opening the door. However, I did convince the wife to spring for the Kaymar w/ the dual pivots, so I at least have the option of adding TWO tire carriers in the future. Too bad one couldn't fit two tires on a single carrier. This way, you could bring FOUR dedicated use wheels like swampers or snow tires w/o having to put anything on the roof or inside.

I've considered the subtank, but there are too many issues to make it worthwhile...charcoal canister is located there for the '03+ LC/LX, so not sure if the OEM subtank will fit on US-spec vehicles. Not to mention you have to get all the plumbing, subtank ECU, etc. It would be awlfully nice to have a 12-gal OEM subtank, though, even if it were a gravity tank.

aedgington

Admittedly, I did not consider my garage dimensions. That would have given my wife ammunition for years... and years...

Jim, been meaning to ask, regarding your bumpers, what are the implications of solid bumpers vs. standard bumpers in collisions? Are airbag sensors working on some sort of crumple deal, or some type of kinetic change? Does having solid bumpers bolted on to frame rails increase the likelihood of frame damage in a mediocre collision?

V8_Fan

Well, take a look at these photos. The Lincoln Marquis ran a stop sign and got t-boned by a LC 80 w/ ARB winch bar. Notice the damage to the Lincoln vs the damage to the right corner of the LC...

http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_acces...emo4001web.jpg

http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_acces...rbdemo1web.jpg

The ARB's for the 100's are air bag tested. The bumper mounting unit on the 100 has a "crumple" zone that looks like an accordian of steel, 80 doesn't have it since it didn't get airbags until the last year or two. On my 4runner, the ARB winchbar bolts directly onto the front crossmember w/ no mounting bracket. For the rear, it doesn't matter, as there is no crumple zone on the 80 or 100. Right beneath the plastic rear bumper cover is the rear crossmember. The only cases where I've heard of additional damage occuring to the rear is when someone had a trailer ball/hitch in the receiver and then got rear-ended. That applies a downwards torque on the hitch which twists the rear crossmember and rear of the frame. Better to take a direct hit on the bumper.

aedgington

Good enough, and now I have some pix to show the woman thanks

Hoser

While in Australia, I saw several 70's series LC's with two spare tires hung back to back on the rear carrier. They were all of the skinnier variety though.

V8_Fan

Do you mean side by side, like one on a left-pivot tire carrier, one on a right-pivot carrier? I can do that with my Kaymar 100-series dual-pivot bar already. I mean two tires (fron to back) on each left & right carriers for 4 spares total hanging off the back. But if they're a different size and you get a flat, you have to change all 4 wheels! I like the idea of split steel rims, as you can repair a flat or change a tire on the spot. Problem is, they'll be out of balance. Guess it doens't matter if you're driving 35mph offroad.

Hoser

No, I mean back to back--stacked. They may even have been hanging on the rear door like the single spare does. I'm sure my Slee rear bumper could take the weight of two smaller spares as my single spare weighs 118lbs.

Traturn

I'm not sure if its standard on all LX's - but I can say that we have a "Spare tire lock Master Set" that has all the different types (i think 10?) of spare-tire locks for the LX.

They are sort of 4" long by 3/8" wide cylinders with a lock on one end, hex on the other.

If your missing yours, bring it into service and ask them to tell you what # wheel lock your spare uses. with that number (61/358/54/etc) you can call mcgard directly and order it, I believe. The spare tire locks use the same number/color codes as the regular wheel locks.

Wheel locks are the devil! if the thieves want your wheels, they will take your whole car imo

Max707

Thanks I have the wheel lock and was wondering if it was also used on the spare. Jim confirmed that it was so I should be good to go.

V8_Fan

Just remember that the wheel lock pattern to lower the spare is the same, but it's not the same tool you use to remove the lug nut. The key tool to lower the spare is part of the inner piece of the 2-piece rod you use to lower the spare. The key tool w/ one hex side to remove the lug nut is a 22mm hex. I use it w/ an impact wrench w/ no issues. For some reason, I'm led to believe the key lug nut doesn't expand/contract by the same amount as the non-key lug nuts. Reason is, I hand-torqued my wheels, then later retorqued them some hundreds of miles later. In all 4 cases, the key lug was too tight (or didn't loosen) while the other lugs loosened by exactly the same amount. This caused uneven torque, which CAN cause warped rotors. I'm thinking about doing away w/ mine after installing new rotors in another 30K. I don't think thieves will steal the wheels unless you park outside in the hood at night. They'll likely steal the whole car instead.

I heard the latest trick is to program up a lexus ECU that doesn't require a matching key. The thief then breaks into the car, pops the hood, swaps out the ECU for the new one, then starts up the car w/ his own key. All this takes 5 min max on some lexus models. On the LX, at least the main ECU is behind the glove box while the key transponder ECU is inside the dash.

Oh, yeah, forgot to mention. Although you need a key to lower the spare, the achilles heel of the spare is the cable that holds it up. I don't know about the LX cable system, but the one on the new 4runner uses a cable. People have gotten their spares stolen...thief cuts the cable, spare falls to the ground. Voila! I've thought about retrofitting the old chain system from my '86 4runner onto my LX. Lowering the spare using the rod, even if it has the hook end instead of the key end, is a major PITA and slow. I doubt any thief would struggle that hard for one spare, not when he can find a GX or 4runner and simply snip the cable and get a spare in < 10 seconds.

Graham50

I see many of you have had your spare tire stolen. You can protect it with a SpareGuard. One can be ordered at www.***************