Ignition Cylinder broken
Ignition Cylinder broken
09-10-10, 11:37 AM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Same thing happened to me a few months back. Please check this thread at ih8mud: http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...-ignition.html
This is how I did it:
"Picked up the parts and went to work. It turned out to be much easier than I first thought. The procedure can be done in 2-3 different ways. The first one is to do what the dealer does (or at least what they say they do) and take out the whole steering column and do all the work on a bench. Or you can loosen the upper 4 bolts holding the column and bring it down a little for better access. The third and easiest way to do it is to just exchange the broken Cam Rod without taking the whole housing off the column.
In an earlier post somebody mention that they had to sacrifice the lower plastic cover below the steering wheel due to the steering wheel being locked via the steering lock (one or two screws are behind the steering wheel). This will not be necessary if you take the ignition sleeve and the first of the two broken Cam Rod pieces out of the housing. This will enable you to stick a screwdriver inside and push on the locking mechanism for the steering lock so that the steering wheel can be turned to access the screws.
However, if you do it the way I just did it, you don't even have to remove the upper two plastic covers.
This procedure (which takes less than an hour to do) is for an LX470 2002:
First remove the plastic cover that sits under the steering column which houses the rear window buttons, the gas fill cover and the hood latch. Remove it completely for easy access. Four Philips screws hold the two latches. Four electrical connections also need to be disconnected. Also remove the metal plate held down by four 10mm bolts. This gives you better access.
Remove the black ring that's around the ignition (one Philips screw) and place it to the side.
Now remove the key cylinder by inserting the key to the ON (or somewhere between ON and Acc) position and push a small screwdriver or a small punch in to the whole underneath the housing to release the key cylinder.
After removing the cylinder make sure you take a look at exactly which position the broken Cam Rod is in so that you get it right when inserting the new one later. I believe you can also look at the new one you just bought as they don't sell just the Cam Rod, but the whole housing.
Now the small broken piece needs to come out and this is where it gets a little trickier. As you will see on the new housing, there is a slot that allows you to insert or remove the Cam Rod which also acts as a lock so the Cam Rod doesn't come out again. Doing the whole procedure this way makes it difficult if not impossible to have a look in the back of the housing since it's still attached to the steering column.
The next step is to remove the two Philips screws holding the white plastic part that is attached to the back of the housing. It's possible to get a medium sized Philips screwdriver in there and remove the screws, but quite difficult to get the screws back in again. (tape the screw to the screwdriver while trying to locate the holes). Then back off the plastic part about 1/4" so that the Cam Rod can be turned easily. Using a pair of very long needle pliers the broken part can now be turned and pulled out. This is where you will look at the new Cam Rod and the new housing to see how to position the broken off piece inside the housing so that it can be extracted. Mine had to be turned about 90 degrees to the left.
After this you take the new Cam Rod and push it in all the way so that the slot in the housing is aligned with the part of the Cam Rod that needs to fit in this slot. I used a pair of needle pliers to push the rod in. Then turn the Cam Rod so it's in the same position as the old one was in when you first took it apart. This should prevent you from placing the rod in the 180 degree wrong position. If you turn it 180 degrees the wrong way I believe you will have to use procedure 1 or 2 (removing the housing by drilling out the bolts) since the Cam Rod is now in the way for you to get in with a long screwdriver and release the steering lock. Fortunately it worked the first time for me."
This is how I did it:
"Picked up the parts and went to work. It turned out to be much easier than I first thought. The procedure can be done in 2-3 different ways. The first one is to do what the dealer does (or at least what they say they do) and take out the whole steering column and do all the work on a bench. Or you can loosen the upper 4 bolts holding the column and bring it down a little for better access. The third and easiest way to do it is to just exchange the broken Cam Rod without taking the whole housing off the column.
In an earlier post somebody mention that they had to sacrifice the lower plastic cover below the steering wheel due to the steering wheel being locked via the steering lock (one or two screws are behind the steering wheel). This will not be necessary if you take the ignition sleeve and the first of the two broken Cam Rod pieces out of the housing. This will enable you to stick a screwdriver inside and push on the locking mechanism for the steering lock so that the steering wheel can be turned to access the screws.
However, if you do it the way I just did it, you don't even have to remove the upper two plastic covers.
This procedure (which takes less than an hour to do) is for an LX470 2002:
First remove the plastic cover that sits under the steering column which houses the rear window buttons, the gas fill cover and the hood latch. Remove it completely for easy access. Four Philips screws hold the two latches. Four electrical connections also need to be disconnected. Also remove the metal plate held down by four 10mm bolts. This gives you better access.
Remove the black ring that's around the ignition (one Philips screw) and place it to the side.
Now remove the key cylinder by inserting the key to the ON (or somewhere between ON and Acc) position and push a small screwdriver or a small punch in to the whole underneath the housing to release the key cylinder.
After removing the cylinder make sure you take a look at exactly which position the broken Cam Rod is in so that you get it right when inserting the new one later. I believe you can also look at the new one you just bought as they don't sell just the Cam Rod, but the whole housing.
Now the small broken piece needs to come out and this is where it gets a little trickier. As you will see on the new housing, there is a slot that allows you to insert or remove the Cam Rod which also acts as a lock so the Cam Rod doesn't come out again. Doing the whole procedure this way makes it difficult if not impossible to have a look in the back of the housing since it's still attached to the steering column.
The next step is to remove the two Philips screws holding the white plastic part that is attached to the back of the housing. It's possible to get a medium sized Philips screwdriver in there and remove the screws, but quite difficult to get the screws back in again. (tape the screw to the screwdriver while trying to locate the holes). Then back off the plastic part about 1/4" so that the Cam Rod can be turned easily. Using a pair of very long needle pliers the broken part can now be turned and pulled out. This is where you will look at the new Cam Rod and the new housing to see how to position the broken off piece inside the housing so that it can be extracted. Mine had to be turned about 90 degrees to the left.
After this you take the new Cam Rod and push it in all the way so that the slot in the housing is aligned with the part of the Cam Rod that needs to fit in this slot. I used a pair of needle pliers to push the rod in. Then turn the Cam Rod so it's in the same position as the old one was in when you first took it apart. This should prevent you from placing the rod in the 180 degree wrong position. If you turn it 180 degrees the wrong way I believe you will have to use procedure 1 or 2 (removing the housing by drilling out the bolts) since the Cam Rod is now in the way for you to get in with a long screwdriver and release the steering lock. Fortunately it worked the first time for me."
09-15-10, 07:35 AM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ontario
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I've had mine replaced last Friday. It happened right after my kids soccer trial and got the key into the ignition and turned ... loud crack ... then it was loose from left to right!! Buddy mechanic came and took apart the dashboard & steering column covers and lo behold ... the pin behind the ignition bracket broke. He used a long needle plier to turn the engine so that I was able to drive it to the dealership (all without the cost of a tow truck).
It cost almost $800 bux.
It cost almost $800 bux.
10-01-10, 07:37 PM
#6
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I replaced mine in my 99 LX470 back in April myself and fixed it myself without any problems. One part I also had to replace was the electrical ignition switch just behind the the ignition cylinder with the broken cam 
Three days later I was able to locate all the parts needed at Toyota Dealerships telling them it was a 1999 Landcruiser. I did all the labor but the dealer was estimating 800-900 to change these items plus cost of parts $300...
Three days later I was able to locate all the parts needed at Toyota Dealerships telling them it was a 1999 Landcruiser. I did all the labor but the dealer was estimating 800-900 to change these items plus cost of parts $300...
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