2009 LX570 starts then dies, many codes showing
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
2009 LX570 starts then dies, many codes showing
I'm a fairly handy car guy but I'm not sure what to do on this one. Here's the specifics.
We've owned the 2009 LX570 (approx 101k miles) for about a month now. The vehicle has run fine, no issues. This morning it started very briefly (.25sec) then quit. Same thing over and over. I charged the battery, had it load tested and it all checks out fine. I cleared codes and rechecked it. No standard OBDII codes show, only the enhanced codes. Dash shows a CEL. We drove the vehicle yesterday a few times and all was fine...normal acceleration, started, etc. Then, this morning, it went down. I also pulled the MAF, cleaned it, reinstalled. Pulled the intake tube, cleaned the throttle body butterfly and corresponding area around the butterfly. It was slightly dirty but looked normal.
Here's what I have for codes:
P0300 Random Misfire Detected
P0011 Intake camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 1)
P0012 Intake camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 1)
P0014 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 1)
P0015 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 1)
P0016 Camshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A
P0017 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 1 Sensor B
P0018 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 2 Sensor A
P0019 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 2 Sensor B
P0021 Intake camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 2)
P0022 Intake camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 2)
P0024 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 2)
P0025 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 2)
P0032 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P0052 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance
I am uploading a short video to Photobucket, which perhaps illustrates what's happening better than I can describe. I will post it up once it clears on Photobucket. Cranking sounds normal and I can hear what sounds like the fuel pump activating as well. I know that low voltage on a CANBUS system can make weird things happen. However, since my battery checks out, I'm not sure on this one. Any ideas?
We've owned the 2009 LX570 (approx 101k miles) for about a month now. The vehicle has run fine, no issues. This morning it started very briefly (.25sec) then quit. Same thing over and over. I charged the battery, had it load tested and it all checks out fine. I cleared codes and rechecked it. No standard OBDII codes show, only the enhanced codes. Dash shows a CEL. We drove the vehicle yesterday a few times and all was fine...normal acceleration, started, etc. Then, this morning, it went down. I also pulled the MAF, cleaned it, reinstalled. Pulled the intake tube, cleaned the throttle body butterfly and corresponding area around the butterfly. It was slightly dirty but looked normal.
Here's what I have for codes:
P0300 Random Misfire Detected
P0011 Intake camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 1)
P0012 Intake camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 1)
P0014 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 1)
P0015 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 1)
P0016 Camshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A
P0017 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 1 Sensor B
P0018 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 2 Sensor A
P0019 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 2 Sensor B
P0021 Intake camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 2)
P0022 Intake camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 2)
P0024 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 2)
P0025 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 2)
P0032 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P0052 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance
I am uploading a short video to Photobucket, which perhaps illustrates what's happening better than I can describe. I will post it up once it clears on Photobucket. Cranking sounds normal and I can hear what sounds like the fuel pump activating as well. I know that low voltage on a CANBUS system can make weird things happen. However, since my battery checks out, I'm not sure on this one. Any ideas?
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LRAWDOGGEN (10-12-22)
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Started!
I read something about the immobilizer and the keys getting out of sync. The process is to hold up the key to the start button for 20 seconds to get it to reset. Whatever I did with that process worked. It started right up and idled fine just like it always had. No codes.
We had a duplicate fob and key made up two weeks ago. Both sat side by side in the key bowl and sometimes I would end up with both in my pocket at once. I will report back if the "start, stumble and die" symptoms return.
In the meantime, maybe that will help out another poor soul. I spent all day tracking down potential wiring issues.
We had a duplicate fob and key made up two weeks ago. Both sat side by side in the key bowl and sometimes I would end up with both in my pocket at once. I will report back if the "start, stumble and die" symptoms return.
In the meantime, maybe that will help out another poor soul. I spent all day tracking down potential wiring issues.
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apwp93 (01-02-17)
#5
I read something about the immobilizer and the keys getting out of sync. The process is to hold up the key to the start button for 20 seconds to get it to reset. Whatever I did with that process worked. It started right up and idled fine just like it always had. No codes.
We had a duplicate fob and key made up two weeks ago. Both sat side by side in the key bowl and sometimes I would end up with both in my pocket at once. I will report back if the "start, stumble and die" symptoms return.
In the meantime, maybe that will help out another poor soul. I spent all day tracking down potential wiring issues.
We had a duplicate fob and key made up two weeks ago. Both sat side by side in the key bowl and sometimes I would end up with both in my pocket at once. I will report back if the "start, stumble and die" symptoms return.
In the meantime, maybe that will help out another poor soul. I spent all day tracking down potential wiring issues.
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Chocolate, I went back to search for the thread where I found the procedure but unfortunately, I can't locate it. Here's what I remember, I depressed the start button without pressing the brake. I then held the key to the start button for about 20-25 seconds with the back of the fob to the start button. After 20-25 seconds, I then pressed the brake depressed the button and she started right up, everything normal. I seem to recall I found this on a Lexus IS specific forum. If I run across it, I'll post it up.
#7
Driver
I tried to find it......it looks like all you have to do is hold the battery side of the FOB against the start/stop button for a while.
Sources: Page 556: http://www.adusa.us/data/documents/1...-P.535-595.pdf
and
Page 24: http://www.adusa.us/attachments/File...13-for_Web.pdf
Sources: Page 556: http://www.adusa.us/data/documents/1...-P.535-595.pdf
and
Page 24: http://www.adusa.us/attachments/File...13-for_Web.pdf
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apwp93 (01-02-17)
Trending Topics
#10
Driver School Candidate
P0024 - Immobilizer reset worked for me
I read something about the immobilizer and the keys getting out of sync. The process is to hold up the key to the start button for 20 seconds to get it to reset. Whatever I did with that process worked. It started right up and idled fine just like it always had. No codes.
We had a duplicate fob and key made up two weeks ago. Both sat side by side in the key bowl and sometimes I would end up with both in my pocket at once. I will report back if the "start, stumble and die" symptoms return.
In the meantime, maybe that will help out another poor soul. I spent all day tracking down potential wiring issues.
We had a duplicate fob and key made up two weeks ago. Both sat side by side in the key bowl and sometimes I would end up with both in my pocket at once. I will report back if the "start, stumble and die" symptoms return.
In the meantime, maybe that will help out another poor soul. I spent all day tracking down potential wiring issues.
I recall earlier in the week I got a message on the dash saying the FOB was not found, or something to that effect - the same one I would get if I had two FOBs in the car at the same time. Your solution was a no-brainer to try, and it worked! The procedure worked for me when I turned the power on (but not the ignition/engine), and held the key FOB to the start button as described. Started the car up, no codes, no lights on the dash, and everything working as it should (ABS, VSC - it was wet... and easy to test safely, so, why not?!).
Thanks for posting the original info. Saved me a trip to the dealer and a potential costly part change.
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