SaintLexus

iTrader: (4)

Resale Value on this vehicle is insane! Like, I was surprised myself!

Supra Dr

iTrader: (14)

Pricing is region dependent.
In Pa I would say 62 - 68K depending on condition w/ 30,000 & CPO. Make sure they have done the 30K service.

UCrazyKid

I realize this is an old thread but I will add things to look for now that I have had my 2011 for 2 1/2 years.
Radiator: they fail right at the top, left of center where there is a raised rectangle with some part number info stamped on it. A crack just under the “block” forms and eventually leaks.

Waterpump: known to leak, check for pink crusty residue on front of motor.

Valley Plate coolant leak: the symptom is missing coolant and not seeing where it has disappeared to. It pools in the middle of the V8 valley under the intake manifold. It is a failure of the liquid gasket material they seal it with at manufacturing, due to contamination of surfaces (machining oil). The repair is easy, just labor intensive. Remove intake, valley plate and reseal.

Starter: seem to fail occasionally

Cam tower oil leak (rare but does happen, expensive repair). Look for oil leaking where the valve covers meet the block.

Good news: mostly these engines and chassis are bulletproof. Uses a timing chain so no need to replace (like a belt). Make sure to keep up on the AHC system hydronic fluid service (60k mi) and have the differentials, transfer case and transmission fluids changed at 120k mi. Make sure to use the Toyota WS transmission fluid.

hankinid

A good idea to R&R the water pump, sera belt with tensioner and idler, thermostat, and fan clutch at the scheduled 120K service. That service should also include spark plugs.

If the intake is removed for the valley leak, it needs to be resealed with Toyota's FIPG material. You may save a little using the equivalent Three Bond stuff as they make it for Toyota.

Starter failures are usually fixed with replacement of the starter's solenoid contacts. Add that to the valley leak service as "you're in there anyway".

Valvoline Max Life synthetic meets Toyota specs and is definitely less expensive, or set yourself up for an amazon notification...I bought 2 cases of the Toyota WS last year at $6/qt. and free shipping.

If your 200 Series specs Toyota 75W for the trans case, it's ~$70/qt. and you'll need 2 qt. Most dealers use 75W-90 as it's a bunch cheaper. That may cause the trans case to lock up in neutral range. Correct fluid and driving in low range periodically are the anecdotal fixes...Toyota doesn't have a solution. Ravenol makes 75W synthetic that meets Toyota specs...around ~ $40 for 2 qts. shipped. ravenol.com

No comment on cam tower leakage, but there are a few step-by-step posts on mud about it...mine's tight but if it were leaking it would go to my indy shop.

spectrum1c

Thanks for the post. Mmm, makes me take pause a little bit. My wife's 12 year old Mazda CX-9 with 160k miles has to date only had 1 starter and 1 fuel injector fail, which I replaced both myself. No seals failing or radiator issues. Otherwise it runs like new except I can tell the front end bushings could do with replacement. In addition, the recommend oil change intervals are 7k vs 5k on the Lexus. Plus it does it all on regular gas.

Still getting the lx570 because my wife really wants one, but sounding like it's not going to be as reliabile as the CX 9 . Oh well, I'm sure it will still be better than the other option she was considering, which was an Audi Q7

UZ214

i have had 3 of These, 0 issues. About 250k miles combined. Meanwhile last month my friends cx9 had a brake failure, brake boaster failed in middle of highway with their 6 month old and 2 little kids inside. I think it’s a 2 year old suv. No one got injured but according to his one of the most scariest thing in his life. He’s a pilot for AA.. so yea I am pretty sure it’s much more reliAble than a Cx..

Gordj

I put 205,000 miles on my LC and changed the rad and shocks. Then I put 100,000 km’s on my LX but, except for brakes, nothing else. So that’s almost 300,000 miles and one rad. And they pulled a 25’ trailer to the Yukon and/or the Arctic Ocean three times.

spectrum1c

​​​​​​Thanks for the replies! Fantastic to hear how reliable your vehicles have been. I am excited to soon be an LX owner 🙂

UCrazyKid

to be clear , I’ve had NONE of the problems I wrote about. These are just issues that occasionally come up on the highly trafficked IH8MUD forums. The only thing my LX has needed in 125k miles was new horns for $19.
In a recent published study of vehicles in the US the LC/LX was found to be 15.7 times likely to go 300k miles than any other vehicle sold in the US.

hankinid

Anecdotal reports are interesting but irrelevant, as they only address a single vehicle. JD Powers surveys a relatively large number of known buyers.

Statistically, the poster with the Mazda is lucky or blessed, or both.

UCrazyKid

Here is the article. https://www.iseecars.com/longest-lasting-cars-study

spectrum1c

Lol, I completely misread your initial post. I was thinking you were talking from personal experience with your car rather than listing known, though still unlikely issues, with the 200 platform 😁

I will certainly look for those issues on any LX's I'm about to purchase and feel reassured that these problems are still rare. Thanks!

Shyster

I have 118,650 miles on my 2010 LX 570, which I bought 3 years ago with 44,000 miles. Except for a brake job and new tires, my only unplanned expense was a new Alternator & battery, which cost me about 1200 bucks, with labor. (Plus towing it from the supermarket parking lot where it had expired.) That was about 20k miles ago.
I have had all maintenance performed at the Toyota joint, as no Lexus dealer here.
I have been looking for a ‘13-‘15 Lexus with about 40k miles, but I have a hard time turning loose of this one. I drive about 24,800 miles a year, according to my math, and all this one does is start up and go, providing I give it fuel & change the oil regularly.
I’m wondering what I might expect to replace next: Starter, fuel pump, etc.

spectrum1c

Wow 1200 for an alternator and battery? I see a remanufactured Denso alternator at Napa goes for $290 ($160 at Rock Auto). Is the alteralternator difficult to get to?

hankinid

IMO you got intercoursed big time for a battery and alternator...I'd look for a good independent shop that specializes in Toyota and Lexus. ;- For that much money, I'd at least expect a new, not rebuilt, Toyota alternator.

As far as predictions, read your owner's manual...you've got spark plugs at 120K, as well as changing ALL fluids...brakes, both differentials, transfer case, engine oil, and AHC fluid. I'd also give it a new PCV valve.