DocT

It is time for me to replace the OEM rotors for 2016 LX 570. What are the best rotors than OEM ones that you can recommend... Brembo? Thanks in advance

hankinid

I installed Stop-Tech rotors. They're spec'd on armored 200 series used by SOCOM in the middle east.

Armored 200's carry an additional 1500 lb. or so in armor plate and glass. They actually stop in less distance than OEM.

No experience with Brembo...but keep in mind that you're stopping a truck weighing more than 3 tons.

hth

DocT

Did you get the ones that have drilled holes? How do you like them and how long have you had them? This weekend I drove the truck to LA and when it went down the hills of I5, the whole steering column shook violently at 80 MPH when I applied the brake. But on the normal flat road, I felt the little shake of the steering wheel.

UZ214

I like the OEM; to be honest have not found a better replacement for pads and rotors. Most aftermarket ones would either make noise or the rotors would wrap faster.

hankinid

Fronts are drilled and slotted, rears just drilled.

They've been on the truck for about 2 years and I have zero complaints. I did the installation and bleeding but took the truck to my local indy shop to flush the abs mechanism.

Absolutely no shaking or other goofiness...and Idaho's freeway speed limit is 80 mph once you leave populated areas.

I do need to clarify what I wrote about the SOCOM rotors...I use the same manufacturer but when the rotors were available they were ~ $1100 each. I do not use cheap parts, but I thought that a little excessive. ;0

DocT

Would you think the drilled rotors (cooling down faster) any better than OEM ones? My truck has only 24K miles and it warps already and I am looking for the ones that would least around 50K miles.

hankinid

That's like the premium v. regular gas "discussion"...no real yes/no answer...

Drilled rotors have less mass and a tiny bit more surface area due to the holes, so they will cool down faster than a regular vented oem rotor.

Flip the coin and note that oem rotors with more mass take longer to heat up.

OT a bit but what makes a substantial difference is to use trans braking in town and in the mountains. I use my shift lever almost like a stick shift and it definitely makes a difference in brake life. It's a necessity when pulling the horse trailer.

Reggie1

I realize that wear is related to type of use, but I'm just wondering how many miles the original rotors have lasted for you, and for how many sets of pads?

hankinid

I bought the truck with 60K, dealer replaced oem rear pads as part of the pre-purchase inspection...they used Toyota pads. At that point I had oem rotors, calipers, and rear pads.

I did rotors, calipers, and pads on all 4 corners ~2 years ago with 80K on the truck...all 4 rotors needed turning which I didn't want to do. So at this point, truck has new oem calipers and Stop-Tech rotors and pads. Scoring calipers was interesting and a bit of a challenge. Toyota pricing was north of $200 iirc. I checked Auto Zone rebuilt calipers for s & g's...turns out like the picture on line looks like an oem caliper. Got my local store manager to get one in...turns out it's a new caliper at half of Toyota's price, definitely not a rebuild.

Caliper pins, anti-rattle shims, and all other brake hardware was replaced with new Toyota parts. Brake lines looked and felt good so no changes there. I had my indy shop here double check master cylinder function along with ABS...zero issues on TIS. I also used Motul DOT 4 fluid...high boiling point and used oem on a lot of German cars...local auto zone here has it on the shelf.

Approaching 100K, I checked the brakes as part of R&R-ing snow tires...pads look great as do the rotors. Zero issues.

DocT

This is the original rotors and pads at 24K miles. They have never been touched since I bought it.

UZ214

I don't think so any drilled/slotted would be better than OEM ones. I think because the weight of this SUV and how big the pistons are about 30k is what I usually get before replacing the rotors +pads.

To add you drilled rotors would make me nervous due to loss of rotors mass without the benefit of any additional gain.

Stock rotors are also vented; the after market ones with drilled/slotted do no add any add advantages unless you are racing the 570.

I do all of my cars brake jobs and I have tried all the premium brands like EBC/Stoptech/brembos in my cars. Ultimately I realized the stock setup provide the pad feeling I am used to. I like EBC pads/rotors too but I dont think they make it for LX570.

if you want the drilled vented for looks go for it, I have done it on my cars/RX350 f sport but not on LX or GX due to reasons mentioned above.

read this small article -
https://www.good-guys.com/hotnews/tr...-brake-rotors/

DocT

Thank you for the information. So there is no aftermarket rotors that would last 50 K miles? I also research the rotors for trucks and it came up the 10 best rotors for trucks. I am sure that you or anyone here would agree. I bought EBC rotors, high-end brake pads from EBC and they are pricey.

https://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.co...0-Brake-Rotors

https://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.co...m_id=658400146

UZ214

I think it also depends on driving , how fast you brake etc; maybe some members had better experience with brakes going past 50k.

DocT

After I got a brand new EBC rotors, I found down the EBC rotors are 1/2" smaller in diameter than the OEM rotors. Being smaller than OEM, what would it affect the braking capability and would it wear out faster such warping? Please suggest what would I need to do, return them and get different ones that match the diameter? Thanks